Radiator Mounting-any hints?

guys: I’m doing a PCV on my 2010. I’ve removed the one rad mounting bolt I can find (top of rad) and the shroud mounts on the sides. I’ve also removed the bolt for the brake link mounting tab, which assured that those lines have room to move. I cannot seem to get enough movement to free the from the other upper mount, which doesn’t have a bolt. Any hints? I’m baffled and I’m a veteran wrench. Is there something I’m overlooking? The directions show the rad clearly moved a few inches in order to add the O2 optimizers.

 

Just done something similar on mine. Was installing O2 manipulators and needed to get at the O2 sensor connectors. I had used a PCV on my R1200GS and, while it worked ok, found that I got the same results by using an O2 manipulator but kept the adaptability of the ECU rather than a fixed map.
If I'm reading you correctly, you need to slide the radiator slightly to the side, forget which. There's only one upper bolt. The other side is held by a boss in a rubber grommet on the radiator.
I thought that I could get at the connectors by just moving the radiator slightly. Not going to happen. They're very difficult to get at while the radiator is there and there is very little room to work with.
I had noticed that some of the paint was peeling of the bottom of the radiator and decided to remove the whole thing to repaint anyway. Worth checking behind the plastic grill attached to the bottom of the radiator.
You'll waste more time and bad language trying to do it without removing it. Been there, done that!
I took a pic with my phone and you can see what you're working with.

 

Hey there. Thanks for the response. I’ve tugged it here and there and realized that it’s going to have to be removed. I was planning to replace the coolant anyway, but I’m just irritated that the PCV directions were so far off the mark. Those O2 connectors are in a terrible spot to manipulate without breaking anything. So...off it will come. Waiting for my service manual. There is so very little procedural info on the 1200! Unlike my previous BMW R1200GS.

 

Same with the Rapid Bike Easy unit that I've used. Looks so easy in the photos.
But then again, would you have bought the PCV if you'd known the radiator needed to come off?
I bought my unit last August, when I first bought the VFR and tried and hauled at it. Best I could do was disconnect one connector. Reconnected it and returned the unit to the eBay seller. Thought I would just forget the idea.
Got fed up with the hesitation and surging in town. Mine being a DCT made it worse. The seller still had the unit for sale in December so bought it again. Less than $100.
I remember that a similar type of unit, an AF XiED, made a big difference to the low speed running of the GS so was keen to try one on the VFR. As I said, I tried the PCV on the GS and it worked well but I could never keep water out of the TPS connector. Too exposed on the GS.
Takes a few hundred miles for an O2 manipulator to get the ECU to re map itself fully but got 70 miles on it yesterday for the first and starting to feel the difference in town.
After all, that's where a DCT should be at its best!
I know many say that a re map is the way to go but if this unit works the same as on the the GS, I'm happy. Not sure I want the restrictions removed on the lower gears on a bike of this weight and power without traction control. Especially with DCT.
While you're waiting for your manual there's pdf downloads available online. The photo quality is poor but the text is useful.
A word of warning about the manual. You don't always have to follow it exactly. An example is removing the screen. It's a ten minute job. The manual will have you stripping the fairing down. Check online first or look on you tube.
Good luck! Love my VFR but the GS was much easier to work on for us fiddlers.