Poory Moto Sickers

Have to say that you’re doing good, I like the pictures and videos too. Pics and videos can be your friend when putting everything back together, so keep up on those. Make sure, especially on the important fasteners, you torque them down properly and double check them before putting the fairings back on. I’m sure you know, support is only a post away if you need it.

Regarding that bottom bolt on the fork legs, always easier to break it loose with the front wheel on, this gives more downward force on the fork slider, which in turn helps keep tension on the fork innards, which like to spin inside the fork leg when removing the bottom bolt. All you need to do is break the tension and then you can remove the wheel and forks from the triple clamps, then remove the bolt. Once the top cap and bottom bolt are removed, oil will flow rather quickly. Although many will reuse the crush washer, if it’s in good shape you probably can too but you might want to pick those up just in case. The last few I had on the forks I worked on, were on the cusp of reuse.

 

I bought a 3/8” to metric hex wrench set from Harbor Frieght for less than $10, if I remember that correctly, the hex shaft is rather long so it would fit through the fork bottom and engage the bolt with plenty of room to spare for the ratchet to not hit the fork tube. Although I have previously used a long “L”shaped hex wrench with an adjustable wrench on the short end without issues, so that might be an option. Just an FYI, most large auto parts store chains do rent tools, so if you cannot located the tool for purchase, you can always look at renting it.

 

The kit I have has longer hex shafts, probably about 4” Long, the socket doesn’t come anywhere near the fork bottom.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-38-in-drive-metric-long-reach-hex-bit-socket-set-67890.html

 

Looks like a “T” handle wrench that you’re looking at

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-sae-t-handle-nut-driver-set-96927.html

 

Exactly the bolt I was referring to on the bottom of the forks.

Interesting, and really good information - I hadn't done it this way before, but I can see how that would certainly make this part easier. Definitely giving this one a try myself when I do mine next!! Thanks!!

 

A.M, I am impressed with your efforts, and wanted to share in the pain. So while removing the oil filter during my oil change today, I decided to take some skin off of my finger with one of the starter mounting bolts next to the filter.



Sympathy post.

Keep up the good work.

 

When you go to take off that bolt on the bottom of the fork make real sure that the hex head is all the way in the bolt. If you strip the head in the fork it will be no fun trying to remove it. If the bolt doesn't want to come out try using a 3/8 pin punch on the bolt and give it a hit with a hammer, you can also just hit the hex socket but a punch is better. Also before you take the forks out make sure you crack the top nut on the fork or you will have to re install the fork and tighten the pinch bolt on the fork to hold it so you can undo the top nut. When you reassemble things I am pretty sure that the bolt on the bottom of the fork also requires Loctite.

 

Hey AM, maybe a plastic scraper or plastic razor blades? But, before you go out and buy something, if you have any leftover plastic cards (e.g. old credit cards, gift cards, starbucks cards, etc), you could try sharpening (chisel grind) one side on a stone or sand paper and using that to scrape the leftover gasket material... I've used razor blades before but I wouldn't recommend it - you could mar the aluminum...

 

If you have access to an impact wrench then most definitely use that. It is the most stress free way to remove those
bolts from the bottom of the forks. In fact sometimes it's the only way.

Looks good overall though.

 

Regarding the gaskets .... get yourself some steel wool. Soak the gasket areas with brake / contact cleaner, and then scrub. You can also try using the green scubbies for dishes that have the foam sponge on the other side. It's a bit of elbow grease but works well.

Also, here's Partzilla's recommendations:

 

You have to pull the spacers and calipers off but only put the axle partially in the fork tube. You can slide the axle in and through the wheel, and just enough into the fork tube to keep it from rotating and enough room for the hex wrench shaft. Otherwise, impact driver, if you have one, is the other method.

 

Personally I don't like the idea of steel wool, it will put microscopic scratches in the soft aluminum which may help wick the oil to the outside of the case, plus may leave pieces of the wool embedded in the aluminum. A good soak of the gasket material, then a plastic razor blade, or a credit card as was suggested by Samuel would be the best solution IMO.