Anyone who never adjusted valves on a 5th Gen?

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by faran, May 25, 2018.

  1. faran

    faran New Member

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    I am on the fence to check valves on my recently acquired 2000 VFR, understand it can cause(possibly) issues instead of doing anything good and "don't fix if it ain't broken".

    So do we have anyone who has high miles on a 5G and has never touched valves? Mine has ~92K and been primarily used by PO for commuting.

    Looking for some reference/data point to see if there's a high probability valves are going to be fine?

    So any adventurous souls out there? :D

    Thank for the help.
     
  2. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    Personally I'd do a leak-down test, and maybe a compression test, to see how sealed up everything is,
    if the leak-down test give poor readings then I'd look at valve clearances to start. Not a horrible job
    and you're going to change the coolant anyway so the radiators can be moved completely out of the way,
    enabling super easy access.
     
  3. GreginDenver

    GreginDenver New Member

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    Adjusting the valves on a 5th Gen isn't hard. Just the fact that the adjustment is "shim-under-bucket" type means there's less chance of screwing it up. A little care and a methodical approach to the work is all you need (and the proper tools, of course). There's an electronic copy of the service manual somewhere here on the forum.

    If you lived here in Denver I'd find an open day in my schedule and invite you over to get the valve work done in my garage.
     
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  4. faran

    faran New Member

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    In order for me to do a leakdown test, do I need to have a air compressor which I don't have? Can just a compression test be enough or maybe I can ride to MO? :D

    Thanks for the help.
     
  5. faran

    faran New Member

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    Too bad I am not in Denver :(

    But I have a printed copy from PO and have downloaded PDF too.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2018
  6. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    A compression test will give you a rough estimate of things, the leakdown test will give you more info about
    how conditions are inside. You could have low compression due to valves seating further in the head, but not
    have any leaky stuff, which will show up on a leakdown test.

    Yeah, need a air compressor and the necessary gauges for a leakdown test, but a compression test is a good
    thing to do too. And easier, with less equipment.
     
  7. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thank you, so leak down is out of way for me. Compression test on a car is usually done by removing FI fuse or ECU fuse and then cranking in each cylinder while using compression tester.

    Is it same principal?
     
  8. OZ VFR

    OZ VFR Member

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    No need to remove any fuses on a 5G.
    Just use your kill switch to cut fuel and then crank the motor.
    And I would definetly do a valve check.
    Every time I've done one, I've had to do some adjustments.
     
  9. faran

    faran New Member

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  10. faran

    faran New Member

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  11. GreginDenver

    GreginDenver New Member

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    Passing judgement on a bike just from a couple of sound files feels strange, but...

    My thoughts are:

    First a question about the sound file that's all idle-speed, what is the idle speed RPM? It doesn't sound like the idle is set to the Service Manual prescribed 1,200 RPM. Also on the all idle-speed file, I'm not hearing any hint of valvetrain sound. When I first start up either of my two 5th Gen VFRs from cold and let it idle to warm up a bit I can hear just a little bit of clatter in the valves, they make a little of that "sewing machine" noise that all Solid Lifter engines normally make when they start up from cold.

    The other sound file, the revving file, the engine lacks "willingness". One of the main effects of properly adjusted valves is improved "off-idle" throttle response, the engine will feel like it has enthusiasm and energy.
     
  12. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thanks GreginDenver, yes I believe idle is at 1400-1500 rpm.

    Going to adjust it after taking it to proper temp. I took these sound clips from different angles of the bike, by moving around and taking the phone closer to exhaust headers and front area etc...

    Maybe that's why? But you are right it's definitely hard to comprehend :(
     
  13. GreginDenver

    GreginDenver New Member

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    You don't want to ride a 5th Gen VFR in stop-and-go traffic with the idle set at 1,400 to 1,500 RPM, the bike will end up running right up against the high end of the temperature range (even if the cooling system is in perfect condition).
     
  14. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thank you, probably that's why PO was saying that he usually see bike stays in 200 temp range.

    First thing I am going to do is to adjust idle to 12oorpm.

    Doing coolant flush too.
     
  15. GreginDenver

    GreginDenver New Member

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    Actually, 200 is quite normal for the 5th Gen, the OEM thermostat only reaches full open at 203 degrees F (according to the Service Manual, page 6-1), so the bike is designed/intended to run in that range. I'm talking about seeing 225 F for sustained periods, maybe even a bit higher.
     
  16. GreginDenver

    GreginDenver New Member

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    And, with regard to setting the Service Manual directed idle for U.S. import 5th Gens: 1,200 for the 49-State model and 1,300 for the California-specific model (you can quickly tell by looking at your VFR's VIN number, if there's a zero ("0") after the "RC46" it's a 49-State bike, a one ("1") after "RC46" means a California-specific bike)...

    Setting the bike's idle isn't as simple as twisting the idle adjust screw. Whether or not your 5th Gen VFR is willing to idle with good stability at the Service Manual specified RPM while also having good off-idle throttle performance is an interdependant function of: Having the engine's valve lash properly adjusted, having the throttle body's Starter Valves properly adjusted to the Service Manual specified vacuum level for each individual cylinder, and having the Engine Idle Speed Stop Screw properly adjusted (in exactly that order).

    Needing to set the idle higher than normal to get (what feels like) good starting and proper idle stability and acceptable off-idle throttle response is a strong indication that more work is necessary to bring the bike up to a good standard of tune.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2018
  17. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thanks GreginDenver, will start with simple things first, i-e adjusting idle screw to 1200rpm and see what happens. Mine is 49 states, because of 'Zero' after RC46.
     
  18. stephanon2whls

    stephanon2whls New Member

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    34,400 miles and no adjustments yet... Not exactly 'high mileage', but my VFR runs and sounds fine. I might start thinking about it when I approach 50,000 miles....
     
  19. Lint

    Lint Member

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    My bike has over 83,000 miles, I'm the third owner. I don't believe it's ever been done. That said, in going to check it soon.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2018
  20. GreginDenver

    GreginDenver New Member

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    [​IMG]

    The eternal question: Where does "don't fix if it ain't broken" end and "don't maintain it if it ain't been maintained" begin?
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2018
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