10 Second VFR

Meant to say 60', I was looking at the slow reaction time when I typed it. Thought about it later and went daaa. Can you come off the line harder? Looks like the first 20/30 looks a tad slow. Wheelie if your to hard off the line?

 

I went to Beach Bend in Bowling Green, KY last November with the Nashville Sport Bike Meetup group.

The best I could pull with my 5th gen was:
R/T of .040
60' 2.069
11.965 @ 116.86 mph

Mods are: -1 Front, Delkevic slip-on

My guess is I am not launching hard enough. My front end was not strapped either. I have a stock clutch and springs.

 

Thanks!!
Yeah the center stand is still on.
Believe me I go back and forth all day every day debating on whether its worth it.
I have heard that it weighs 3 pounds, which I would love to take off, but the thing is just so damn convenient, to use and such a bitch to take off.
I think I will hold off on that one till I get a garage,

BUT I AM TOTALLY OPEN TO ALL IDEAS WEIGHT REDUCTION!!! IF YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS ON HOW TO DROP WEIGHT PLEASE THROW THEM AT ME NOW!

 

You are totally right. My 60 foot needs to drop a tenth or two.
I got straps now, so wheelies haven't been too much of a problem since last run. But it does fight for traction now, even after a good burn out. I pushed harder that night, but I spun all over the place a few times. Next time I will run 25 psi in the back and try and get in the mid tens for you guys.

 

Barnett 100 pound clutch springs, Honda clutch, and Straps!
It will make a Huge difference!

 

Well done, nice to know these machines can break into the 10s with minimal mods and the right rider.

 

I would suggest that the center stand is substantially more than three pounds. I removed mine along with the mounting bracket and I would estimate the weight at closer to ten pounds. Mine had to come off because the 5th gen headers I'm running don't have the proper bump stop installed for the 6th gen center stand.

 

Hmmmmm well I definitely want to do a front end swap before I pull the center stand off for good. But that is nice know that it's that heavy. That just means more room for Improvement.

 

Got my Barrett springs from Amazon on the way. Under $15 for the set.

 

Thats awesome! for warning though. getting stuck in traffic with those springs kinda sucks. It is a work out to say the least! lol But they work!
I have to thank Toecutter for that one. He gave me the idea. Awesome guy!
Now you need to order your self some fork straps!

 

Anyone have some advice on dropping more weight and adding more power?

Here's what I am thinking at the moment.
Cbr front end with brake delink. Possibly 5-10 pounds depending on usd fork or not.
Center stand removal. Ateast three pounds.
Titanium nuts and bolts...lug nuts and sprocket nuts will possibly help.
Cbr front wheel a couple pounds of rotational weight. Big plus.
Light weight clip ons. 1 pound.
Aluminum sub frame 10-15 pounds. Awesome savings but a lot if work and down time.

Power adders:
A little bit of header work. I just want to improve upon motad's design a little. Larger Y pipes and collectors, remove the sound reducing material out of the collect. Possible gains?
Do some heat protection for better consistency.
Ceramic coat the headers and insulate the air box and gas tank and fuel lines.

Then of course get a dyno tune afterwards and make sure the fueling and timing is spot on.

If I can cross that stuff off with a hard 1.70 sixty foot launch, I think will be seeing mid to low tens!

 

Nice job, CR. I know that following your posts over theyears you've been working hard to get the most out of your bike from less heat, smoother running, etc. Glad to see it paid off.

That reminded me of the old "want to lose 120 pounds quick"? get divorced.

At 6' 2" and 240, I'll likely never see 10 second times. And if I lost 120 pounds, I'd look like a crack ho.

 

Thanks! That really means a lot!
Right now I am 175 full geared.
I think I can get down to 165 with out too much trouble.
I need to figure out what I am going to do with the front end so I can do the brake delink.
I know all about the rc51 and f4i swaps, which would be great, but I just read that the 2004-2007 cbr1000rr shares the same steering stem and bearings and that its just simple swap of one Front end to the other.
I know the fork lengths are shorter but I could easily get around this with super bike bars. I am not too sure on the offset though.

 

Search Results - Motorcycle nitrous oxide system for Nitrous oxide motorcycle

I feel like I'm , but for $250 and some time to dial it in, you could have a safe, and reliable 10Hp shot at the flick of a switch.

The other way to go is weight savings, but I can't think of anything else that people have not said.

 

I think my springs need to be replaced anyway. I get some slippage when I hammer on it hard, but the discs are still good.

I have a CBR 954RR. That bike has a cable for the clutch, no hydraulics. The CBR has a much heavier clutch pull than the VFR. If the new springs don't make the clutch lever pull heavier than the CBR I am good.

And yes, Toe is da man.

 

the barnetts are fine in day to day driving but are awful when stuck in traffic. this plus my factory pro shift kit (go through gears quick but makes finding neutral a bitch) and traffic just sucks on the bike now, but she'll run tens lol... so its a wash.

 

sweet i will look into this. ten shot plus 10% more fuel in the 100% throttle column?
hmmmmm sounds doable


you think that i could just spray right into the plugged up line i have from the removing all the emissions stuff? it would spray right into each throttle body equally. safest way to go imo.

 

Seems reasonable. I have zero experience with nitrous, it just sounds like viable option.

 

What about thoughts on a custom fuel cell where you can remove the tank add the cell and cover it with one of the tank covers so it looks like you have the original tank fitted? I just saw a post where someone fitted a set of chinese fairings where there was a tank cover.
Also do you set up your rear shock especially for a run?

 

basically the rear spring is 2 clicks out from full stiff and rebound is set to full stiff while at the track. the front forks are 1 click out from full stiff and then while at the track they are stapped all the way down.