160* Thermostat?

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by CandyRedRC46, Jun 13, 2009.

  1. BASFjon

    BASFjon New Member

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    No, it would just inevitably kill off the battery. Running the fan on and constantly having to cycle the switch is ridiculous. That's why you have a fanstat.

    If the stock system isn't doing it's job, as in prolonged low speeds, but does it's job everywhere else, ...and where it doesn't work well is only during a small percentage of time - I'd think maybe there should be a mode selection switch for the cooling system's fan operation - something with a second mode for a cooler fanstat setting and more duration. It's possible to run a T-fitting off the Left Radiators Fanstat Bung and run two Fanstat's, switched off a two-pole, single throw switch - one in a position similar to the Powerlet Mounting Position. Just my thing here. However I still believe, as with CandyRed and the others, that the Thermostat itself is too high. And I've noticed my Vif likes to run between 185/185~205, but only as long as the oil temps stay down. If those go up, it runs like junk.

    And one more, I'd still love to try what the other guy here said about the towel sucking in at various speeds. That was a damn good idea. I should take my leaf blower on a low setting and pull the fan plug, wait for the temps to rise and jet the air through the radiator to the outside to see if there is an hot air blown near the pocket of air we would ride in.
     
  2. tris1948

    tris1948 New Member

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    A facinating thread this one!!

    It strikes me that due to the hysteris of the fan switch unless the off temperature of the switch is above the point where the thermostat is capable of controling the temp then it can't shut the fan down.

    You must have some degree of difference between them

    Good luck
     
  3. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    well the switch that im getting ready to put in should switch off between 185 and 190.
    our thermostats open at 180, so we'll see if thats enough variance.
    but i do have a 170 thermostat as a back up, if i need it.
    i am just not in any hurry to pull the throttle bodies off.
     
  4. BASFjon

    BASFjon New Member

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    By Chance, did you test the OEM T-stat? As in the initial crack-open temp. I've been really wondering, because my cruising speeds show a maintained 172 degrees and sometimes as low as 168 degrees.

    And i've been wondering if 180 degrees isn't the crack-open point, or if it's lower, or possibly if it's because of the small purpose-built coolant bypass around the t-stat allowing for the cooling itself.
     
  5. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    no i haven't had the throttle bodies off yet. im not looking forward to it at all. but this is just info that Ive gathered so far...
     
  6. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    Update...

    the civic fan switch came in... the threads are way too big!:mad:
    looks like im gonna give the nissan switch a try.

    as a side note i did get to do an extensive road test of the vtr1000 fan blade. i rode from key west to miami (about 160 miles) and back, with ambient temperatures ranging from 85 to 95 degrees, and asphalt hot enough to fry bare feet in seconds.

    at speeds 55mph and greater, the bike would cool down to 174, but never any lower. (this is probably the crack open point of the thermostat). at speeds around 20-50mph it would get up to about 180 max.

    after arriving back in key west for 15 minutes of stop and go traffic, it started to very slowly creep up past 180. idling in my driveway, with 95 degree heat for ten minutes, it seemed to stablize at around 200.

    to recap, the bike is currently running:
    straight distilled water with water wetter added,
    a 178* fan switch that seems to kick the fan on at approximately 174*,
    and a VTR1000 fan blade.

    being that my bike wont cool down below 174 and the fan switch fires up at 174
    i would say its a safe bet that this is where the open and close threshhold on my stock thermostat is at. with the suzuki thermostat i tested being at 170, im not sure of exactly how much a difference that thermostat would make.

    with all this said i would really like to find a 200-190 fan switch. this would allow the fan to shut down at speed, during most conditions that i would experience on my bike...
     
  7. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    well ive got the nissan pulsar switch, that all the rc51 guys have been talking about, in!
    the threads are an exact match and even while being purchased at advanced auto, it seems of high quality. simply snip off the nissan connection, soldier on a male terminal on one wire and the other wire to the switches body to ground it. the brass(?) did not seem to take to well to soldiering and was a bitch... im open to different ideas here.

    any ways the good stuff. the fan now fires up at approximately 200* and off at approximately 185*. this is exactly what ive been looking for and i highly recommend going with this switch. im sure for 99% of you guys, this will prove satisfactory and the other 1% well... lol
     
  8. tris1948

    tris1948 New Member

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    Usually when solder dosen't flow properly is due to lack of heat - the large brass bit acts as a heat sink leaving a "dry joint". The problem is putting more heat in can melt other (plastic/insulating) bits.

    It might be worth wiring in a manual switch in parallel - just in case the wire drops off and leaves you with no fan at all
     
  9. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    What was that part number?

    MD
     
  10. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    taken from the rc51 forum:
    "So the one I am using is a Nissan part number 21595-01A00. You can call any parts store and give them that part number and they will cross reference it. So I went to Autozone, they had the cheapest price. If you have an autozone then go down there and tell them you want a SW524. Thats their part number, and it corresponds to an 83 Nissan Pulsar."
     
  11. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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  12. scoe

    scoe New Member

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    I've installed the same Nissan switch and also the VTR1000 fan blade. Just waiting for some half decent weather to do a test ride and will post the results. I predict a sudden run on old Nissan fan switches......
     
  13. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    how did you go about grounding it?
    i just soldiered one of the leads to the switch's body...
     
  14. scoe

    scoe New Member

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    My switch has 2 wires coming out of it, so I just ran a ground wire to one and ran positive to the other.
     
  15. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    Here is mine

    gotcha...
    sorry for the cell phone sideways pix...
     

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  16. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    So thats what it looks like!

    Couldnt you just connect up a lead with an eyelet on the other end and ground it to the frame or a convenient location?

    BTW - good job!

    MD
     
  17. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    yeah i could of, but im trying to turn this into a simple drop in modification that can be done by everyone. as in no modifications to the bikes wiring, whatsoever, just a simple switch of the switch.
    im sure there has to be a switch out there that would already be a simple drop in, but i dont think anyone has found it yet...
    i just like the idea that if i wanted to return my bike to stock i could in 5 minutes.
    there is something VERY unappealing about molested wiring to potential buyers.
     
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