1985 VF1000R Overheating?

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by LipRipper3006, Jul 2, 2017.

  1. LipRipper3006

    LipRipper3006 New Member

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    Almost finished with my dads '85 VF1000R after sitting for 15 years. We just did basic fluid changes and a carb rebuild at the local honda shop. We pulled the thermostat housing after the bleeder bolt was stuck. Replaced the thermostat and the oring with honda genuine parts from the dealer. Before that we flushed the radiator multiple times since the coolant in it was dark brown. We used peak 50/50 long life after installing the new thermostat. The temp gauge didn't work at first so we grounded it a few times and it moved. After realizing it might not be accurate i used a non contact thermometer. The #2 cylinder was reading about 210-265 on the cooling fins #1 was about 130 and the rest were about 160. I checked the cylinder drain plug and nothing came out. I used a zip tie and put it in the hole an some black oily-ish grit came out. I drained the coolant and used a 1:1 ratio or distilled vinegar and water. I ran the engine and used the thermometer again. The #1 cylinder was running about 110 and the rest were about 180-200 after just minuets after starting. I stared it a few more times and then flushed it. The fluid was caramel colored. Then we tried using the garden hose to flush the hosed even more. We filled it back up with regular water and it was the same as the vinegar mix, with the #1 cylinder running much cooler that the others. The black pipes on the inside of the cylinders are running about 130-165. The stainless metal pipe is about 140 and the pump is 113.

    I don't want to run it too long to do any damage from overheating so I don't think the thermostat has opened. It's only gotten up to 140 on the housing.

    Don't know what to do now. Any ideas?
     
  2. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Certainly sounds like you have some blocked passages within the cylinder blocks. Flushing hard with the hose sounds like the best that you can do, making sure that you get flow through the pump and any removable hoses, especially the bypass from the thermostat to the pump inlet.

    If it were mine I would be trying a commercial radiator flush solution to break down any remaining crud. I did that with my ST1100 that had been sitting for 10 years.

    The thermostat should be opening around 180F in any case.
     
  3. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    not familiar enough with that model, but there may be cylinder block drain plugs on the rear. if so, they'll be hard to reach but necessary to remove and flush.
     
  4. LipRipper3006

    LipRipper3006 New Member

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    It only shows two in the service manual. I think taking the carbs and oil lines off will be a pain. I think there's probably something that can be poured into there to break it loose. I've tried vinegar and it has evapo-rust thermocure soaking in it right now. I let the front cylinder heads get to about 200 degrees and let it soak. The rear-left cylinder only gets up to about 113 in the time it takes the front ones to reach about 170-200. I took the thermostat out so the fluid circulates better through the system. Thinking about putting soapy water into the drain plugs and trying to clear the passages. The #4 cylinder drain plug drips pretty good when opened but gets about as warm the #2 cylinder. The #3 tends to sit at about 130 in the time it takes the front two cylinders to reach 200.
     
  5. LipRipper3006

    LipRipper3006 New Member

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    Could you look at a diagram for my bike and confirm which direction that the water flows through the system?
     
  6. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    coolant flows into waterpump through hose from lower left radiator connection. my suggestion is to disconnect hose from pump and force gardenhose water in reverse through the system while front cylinderblock drain plugs are open.
     
  7. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Just to add to SM's comment and based on a VF750 diagram, coolant from the water pump flows up to the cylinders, splits in to the front and rear, then each head has its own pipe to the thermostat. I don't have a VF1000R diagram but I know on my 5G there is a small diameter bypass hose from the thermostat back to the pump inlet for when the thermostat is closed, can't see that on a VF750 diagram so not sure if that is on the 1000. Given you seem to have a low temp on the back cylinders and high on the front, my guess is that the front heads are where the blockage may be. Blowing water back from the thermostat connection through the jackets would be my suggestion.
     
  8. thx1138

    thx1138 New Member

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    Lift the two pit covers in the V.
    The gallery out of there is probably blocked.
    I had a very similar problem with one of my 84 VF1000R's. The gallery to number one cylinder was totally blocked.
     
  9. LipRipper3006

    LipRipper3006 New Member

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    I pulled the carbs and cleaned all the mess from the stainless pipe. Thermometer broke so I cant tell if it helped. It took about 3 liters of water instead of about two. I can't get the seat to go on. Do you have to take the rear tail light piece out or am I doing something else wrong?
     
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  10. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    If the 1000 was built like the 750, the seat lock/latch is on a crossbar that can be moved a little that will correct the alignment.
     
  11. LipRipper3006

    LipRipper3006 New Member

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    With a little bit of prying and convincing I got the seat to fall in place but only have one bolt to lock it in with. Going to try and flush the water a few more times and put in some more peak 50/50. Then I'll try to get around to putting the farings and plastics back on and trying to get it road worthy enough once again.
     
  12. VF1000Fe

    VF1000Fe New Member

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    There are NO stainless steel pipes on that bike.
    There are 2 steel Chrome Plated radiator pipes, one up to the V, one in the middle of the V,

    Those cylinders sure Rust Up.
    You need to run the Garden Hose both ways thru the cylinders with the all drain bolts out.

    Back Flush both Radiators, since Rust will be pumped up and plug the upper rad input side with Rust Flakes.
    [​IMG]

    You may have to dry the rads out to shake out all the rust flakes, they swell when wet.
    Use the store bought Rad Flush chemical, its cheap.
    Use 1/2 bottle, 2 times.
    Flush with tap water for a long time, all the acid chem needs to leach out.
    Do a Run Hot cycle with tap water, get all the cleaning chem out
    Replace the rad cap with a cheap Subaru 13psi equivalent ($9).
    Clip Off 1/4" off all old hose ends between rad cap and overflow bottle (air will leak in on fluid suck back).
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2017
  13. thx1138

    thx1138 New Member

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  14. LipRipper3006

    LipRipper3006 New Member

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    I cleaned the gallery a little bit. Used water, a piece of welding wire, compressed air, and a shop vac. Poured water in from the thermostat side and water rose to the galley side. I used the thermometer again and it said #4 is about 225 on the head and 185 on the water sitting still. #2 and 3 are about 200 on the head and the #1 is like 185 on the head. These were taking with the temp gauge at 1/2 way up idling. image1.PNG image2.JPG
     
  15. thx1138

    thx1138 New Member

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    Try sticking a hose in the outlet port on each cylinder and make sure you have a good flow through each gallery.
    The temps seem closer together than your first report though.
     
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