2007 VFR--Wont start--Found melted connector under seat.

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Megatronousprime, Sep 18, 2017.

  1. Megatronousprime

    Megatronousprime New Member

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    So after a short ride, I found that my 2007 VFR would not start. After several attempts to crank the bike over, the battery ended up dying and I pushed the bike home about a half a mile.
    I looked under the seat to find a small connector melted and some wire burned.
    I already changed the factory Main Fuse Holder couple months ago with a Marine grade holder but I did not change or remove the smaller connector on the bottom. so what do I do now? Do I cut off this melted connector, add some wire and just re--connect wire to wire?
    A little history, The bike only has 10k miles and the Stator and RR are Factory.
    Please help--I need my bike to start1 Thanks . MELTED2.JPG MELTED.jpg
     
  2. OOTV

    OOTV Member

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    Well first off, get rid of that connector. You have a couple of choices, replace it with a factory connector, replace it with a better type of connector or bypass the connector completely. Personally I would replace with a better connector and use something like 'Oxguard' on the connections.

    Second, take a look at the connections at the Stator/RR, these are known to do the same thing as you experienced here. I would highly recommend that you replace both items (Stator & RR) with OEM and something like the Shindengen FH020A. There are plenty of post on how to replace these and many with alternative mounting/connection options.

    Here are a couple of links for you.
    For factory style connectors:
    http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html

    For more modern up to date RRs and connection kits:
    http://roadstercycle.com/

    Jack, the owner at RoadsterCycle is very knowledgeable and helpful. He also has a few videos you can watch and learn.
     
  3. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    Looks like the connector has corroded which caused the build up of heat and then melted. I would replace the connector . Or just chop the connector out altogether.
     
  4. Megatronousprime

    Megatronousprime New Member

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    Thank you both! So what are the risks of bypassing this connector and what does this connector actually do? Looks like it serves no purpose...and if I do change to an upgraded factory connector, wont it do the same thing?
    In regards, to anew RR and Stator, is 10k miles enuff to fry both these units lready?
     
  5. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    Corrosion has ruined your connector, if you put a new connector on ox guard it so it doesn't corrode. Or just cut it out and solder some wire in to replace it. The stator and reg/rec are bought in items not made by honda so the accounts went for cheap and they are rubbish. Replacing the reg/rec for a mosfett item will sort this out. I used one from a yamaha r1 . Search on here for tons of info
     
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  6. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Check your 3 connect plug from the stator too for evidence of heat. Corrosion causes resistance, where there is resistance, there is heat, just look in your toaster! Special nichrome wires are designed to heat up by resistance.
     
  7. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Yes that connector needs either replacement or eliminating with a soldered joint.

    BUT you should really find out why there was so much current flow passing through it to cause it to melt?

    Yes the charging system was bought in - so definitely not the greatest - but those connectors should be fine handling normal current flows. So its probably worth checking the basics - how old is the battery and what state of charge does it have? If it is suspect replace it. Sadly if your bike lacks a voltmeter - you get no warning when things start going bad in the charging system and you can then end up stranded once the battery is drained. That is why it is well worth spending a few bucks to wire in a cheap LED voltmeter showing volts as a number to monitor volts on an ignition on circuit. It won't stop things going wrong but will give you a chance to head for some place safe if you ever spot the volts rise or fall alarmingly.

    For now the first step is check the battery is healthy - if a battery plate has shorted internally, it will place an abnormal load on the RR and Stator and inevitably the wiring loom and especially connectors will get really hot very quickly. The RR/Stator is only designed to run at high output for a short while just to replenish the charge which was drawn down during starting, and after that the RR output should drop down to keep up with the normal power demand of the bike whilst running.

    That melted connector suggests you also have problems elsewhere in the charging system. My guess is the RR but before spending money replacing expensive parts which may still be serviceable you really need to work your way through "the drill" - see post #9 on the following thread...

    http://vfrworld.com/threads/how-to-fix-common-regulator-stator-failures.39277

    NOTES
    (1) that thread started with 5th Gens but pretty much the same issues apply to 6th Gens too.
    (2) so give the charging system wiring - especially connectors close inspection
    (3) you need a fully charged healthy battery to do the tests - if the battery is duff it will give misleading results
    (4) You need to do those tests twice - once with the bike cold and then repeat after taking the bike for a 20 minutes plus ride by which time the bike will be fully warmed up and any heat related faults may become apparent - sadly an RR or stator may test fine whilst cold but can fail once hot and instead of charging the bike will start to rapidly drain the battery.

    Good luck - let us know how you get on


    SkiMad
     
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  8. gojukai

    gojukai New Member

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    My 2003 VFR 800 has been giving me crap since I took it out of storage last month.

    I had the same problem as described. I installed a voltmeter and push started to get going. Worked but restarting was difficult. So I replaced that same 30amp fuse today, it was black and suspicious, cleaned the guck and yuck from the connectors with rubbing alcohol and... vroom vroom. Completely back to normal.

    Next stop is a battery. Anyone know if the off the shelf Walmart will last through the summer?

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
     
  9. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    test charging system output b4 replacing battery.
     
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  10. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Gojukai - welcome to the madhouse!

    +1 on the above advice. The point here is that all 4 elements of the charging system (RR, Stator, Loom and Battery) need to be in good health and a fault in any one can potentially damage some or all of the others. So before spending out replacing stuff which may still be perfectly serviceable - do the drill. OK It does look daunting but if you do a visual inspection of the charging system and get hold of a multi-meter and carry out those tests mentioned above you, should be able to identify which components are really causing problems on your bike. More often than not it seems with the 800s the battery is simply drained as a result of defects elsewhere in the charging system. As it is a vtec sadly the stator and RR seem to be very common faults! Sure if the battery is not holding a decent charge - then yes fit a new one. But still do those tests too, otherwise you risk the real charging system fault may persist and will quickly kill your nice new battery and you once again end up with a bike stranded at the roadside. If nothing else invest in a $10 ebay volt meter so you can at least see whether the volts in your charging system are healthy.

    Let us know how you get on.

    SkiMad
     
  11. zombie

    zombie New Member

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    One other thing to note, There is a wiring recall out for this bike. I took mine in last year and they replaced most of the wiring on the bike. There was no charge for this.
    Look into it before you do any repairs. I would suggest doing the drill anyway then taking it to the dealer and doing the upgrades after they have done what they need to do. Might as well start with a new wiring harness if you can.
     
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