5th gen 6th gen Exhaust interchange??

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by VFR777, Aug 8, 2013.

  1. VFR777

    VFR777 New Member

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    Will a catlless pipe from a 5th gen work on a 6th gen bike

    I am trying to get rid of the Catalytic Converter.
     
  2. vfrcapn

    vfrcapn Member

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    Yes. You'll have to modify up a bump stop for the center stand but otherwise it bolts right up.
     
  3. VFR777

    VFR777 New Member

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    cool, ty for the info. my friend.
     
    VFR800.905 likes this.
  4. vfrcapn

    vfrcapn Member

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  5. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    As a 6 Gen owner I can say that there are two sensors, but if you're going to the trouble of replacing the headers, you might as well add in a Power Commander and it comes with the sensor eliminators anyway. Someone has an ad in the VFRD classifieds for a set of Cat-less headers, they have them listed for $150 including shipping. I believe the seller is in SC. For reference, I bought a set of Cat-less headers for my '01 project off of eBay for $108 shipped. This was a few months ago though.
     
  6. VFR777

    VFR777 New Member

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    Well I purchased a set of nice looking (lil rust) for 85 bucks off of ebay

    Now I am just hoping and praying everything matches up. I have an aftermarket tail section GPR very nice set I might add.

    IF I was go the Power Commander, do I go with a PCIII or Power Commander? will I/can I get more low end torque with one of these??

    Oh on the center-stand,I will remove it and put it on when chain maintenance is needed etc...

    Thanks for all the info. guys
     
  7. drewl

    drewl Insider

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    That is a switch.
    Usually folks wanna know if they can put 6th gen stuff on a 5th gen.

    Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
     
  8. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    I would go with the Power Commander 5 as it's the latest and should work with all 6 Gens, even though their website says 2009 only. You will also want to have your bike Dyno tuned by a Dyno tune shop, especially since you are changing the header system, and an off the shelf map is probably not going to work well without some sort of tweaking. On that vein, you'll have to disable or remove the PAIR valve system so the Dyno tune readings are not affected by it.
     
  9. VFR777

    VFR777 New Member

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    Already removed all the pair valve stuff, thx for the heads up though :cool:
     
  10. VFR777

    VFR777 New Member

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    Got the pipes in now to mount them up fitment so far so good, got to remove the rear headers etc...be ready for a test ride! :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2013
  11. vfrcapn

    vfrcapn Member

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    You may have noticed you have to remove the header to get the right side c-stand bolt out. You can tap the r-side c-stand mount all the way through the bracket and insert a longer bolt from the center of the bike out, then put a nut on outside. Then you can pop the c-stand off and on in a few minutes without touching the header.
     
  12. VFR777

    VFR777 New Member

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    Well folks last evening when trying to loosen one of the rear header bolts POP! The header bolt broke/twisted off in the head of the motor. This project if officially over!!

    I am sick over it :(
     
  13. vfrcapn

    vfrcapn Member

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    Did it break flush with the head or is there nub sticking out you can get some vise grips on? Some penetrating oil and heat may be enough. Worst case you can drill it out and tap new threads. No need to give up now, the journey is the destination. :thumb:
     
  14. VFR777

    VFR777 New Member

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    update I have put the stock header back on just a little leak from the broken header.

    vfrcapn I think there might be a nub or so but it is so far back in there I am thinking of talking it to a shop here in town to see if he is up to the job of extracting that bad boy. I don't have the tools, nor the patience to tackle it myself.

    thx for all your help bud!
     
  15. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Sorry that header bolt broke - that sucks. A decent mechanic can actually weld a nut onto that existing nub which might allow for an easier extraction.

    Assume your headers that you bought/replaced were from a '99 since starting in 2000 they had cats. (I have a set of '99 on my 2000). The '99's pipes were actually a hair larger, FYI. Can't recall exactly how much - 2 or 3mm I believe.
     
  16. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    once the pipes are off, removing the rear shock will give some pretty good access to get some tools in there.

    Otherwise,
    pull the tank,
    disconnect some wire connectors, throttle cable, and radiator hoses,
    loosen the chain and remove counter sprocket cover and sprocket,
    4 or 6 bolts and the engine falls right out the bottom with throttle bodies and all intact,
    do your valve maintenance while it's out and replace all the header studs if you're feelin frisky.
     
  17. VFR777

    VFR777 New Member

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    Afternoon update: I completely removed the entire stock exhaust, gave me a little more room to work. Had a pretty good stud to work with, between the penetrating oil and some good taps on the end to jar it loose and a pair of vise grips. I am delighted to say that the broken stud has been removed. What a weight off of my shoulders :party:
     
  18. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    The only question remaining; do you have the right sledgy to put it all back together proper?
     
  19. VFR777

    VFR777 New Member

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    I believe so...May the Force be with me :vtr2:
     
  20. jethro911

    jethro911 Member

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    I'm a little late on this one but BTDT

    Here is my broken stud,
    [​IMG]

    The extracted stud,
    [​IMG]

    And a comparison of the 5th gen vs 6th gen pipes. The 5th gen is bigger.
    [​IMG]

    Finally the system is on with titanium header wrap and no more center stand.
    [​IMG]


    I run a PC V with auto tune and it runs super!
     
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