86 Interceptor 500, will only idle under open choke

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by jwf88, Jun 10, 2012.

  1. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2012
    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Hello all, I'm new to the forum. I've joined to seek advice and input on an issue that I am having with my bike. As the title suggests, it is a 1986 honda Interceptor 500cc.

    I rode the bike in 08 and in 09 and since then it has been sitting in storage. This weekend I wanted to ride again, so I registered it, put a new battery in and changed the oil. I opened the choke as I ussually do when it hasnt run in awhile, and started it. It idled very low and died several times. After adding carb cleaner and revving the engine a bit, I was able to get it to idle around 1.5k for a few minutes before stalling.
    I have been riding it around yesterday and today in this condition (with open choke) and it seems to idle better now, however the choke still has to be wide open.

    I'm not sure what to look at first as I am not familiar with trouble shooting engine issues. It ran fine when I put it away in 2009 and i am not sure what sort of things happen to a motorcycle that sits for three years. I plan to change the spark plugs soon to see if it improves the situation, but please offer me suggestions.


    Thank you very much.
     
  2. Apittslife

    Apittslife New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2012
    Messages:
    453
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Clarksville, Indiana
    Map
    Many Threads on this issue, Please do a search.
    It is a carb issue, Due to Not properly draining off fuel from carbs.

    BTW: :welcome: & :worthless:

    Ride Safe!
     
  3. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2012
    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Sorry I searched earlier but didnt find anything that seemed to be the same issue. Could you tell me how to remedy the problem? 230856_6595719337_6131_n.jpg 197_13515689337_5970_n.jpg

    Here are some photos of it :biggrin: I love this bike
     
  4. Apittslife

    Apittslife New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2012
    Messages:
    453
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Clarksville, Indiana
    Map
    Nice lookin Bike :thumb:

    Sorry but I am not the Carb Guru, But when they come across this thread I am sure they will try to give you some pointers,
     
  5. Rollin_Again

    Rollin_Again Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    May 15, 2008
    Messages:
    2,317
    Likes Received:
    8
    Trophy Points:
    53
    Location:
    Duluth, GA
    If you didn't drain the fuel from the tank and carb bowls prior to storage you will most likely need to remove and clean the carbs. Sorry if I'm being harsh but someone with minimal knowledge on how engines work and doesn't know how to properly store a bike for 3 years probably shouldn't own a 26 year old bike.


    Rollin
     
  6. commrad

    commrad New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2010
    Messages:
    229
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Red Hill, GA
    the carbs are varnished and need cleaned. I'm not normally this way about things but I'm with Rollin_Again on this one. I'm not trying to be mean or anything but if you don't recognize the symptoms of dirty carbs then your prob going to have to pay some one to do the work for you if you can even find a shop that will touch it. So far the 500 ceptor has been the most difficult carb removal and reinstall I have ever dealt with. Made the V45 Sabre seem like childs play. If you tackle it order new carb boots before you start. The old ones get hard and it's near impossible to reinstall the carbs with them.
     
  7. 4a15

    4a15 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2012
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Cincinnati
    Map
    Yep, it's the carbs. Your committed to a carb removal and cleaning. I got both of my V-4's real cheap because the carbs were full of varnish and ran as you described. I have tried, no amount of fuel additive is going to fix it.... you have to remove and clean them.
     
  8. pjvtec

    pjvtec New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2007
    Messages:
    236
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    West Allis, WI
    Map
    CARB CLEAN BABY. Remove carbs. DO NOT SEPARATE!!!!!!!! Remove float bowls, and jets. Blow out passage ways with compressed air and carb cleaner. Re-install.
     
  9. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2012
    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Thanks for the information guys. I actually was told (prior to storing it) that when any bike is stored the gas should be switched off and I should run it till the gas is out of the carbs. Instructors in the cycle training course that I took years back told me this. Is burning the fuel out good enough, or is it necessary to drain it by another method?
    I stored it at my grandfathers house for all this time, and he must have been raised differently because he disagreed that it was necessary, but I think everybody should agree that we tend to trust our grandparents. Now he thinks that running the engine for awhile will eventually clear the problem, which I knew wasn't going to be the case, and why I came here for people who know better.

    Now about carb removal and cleaning, I do have a full service manual for this bike and I'm not afraid to disassemble things. I just wasn't completely aware of how carburetors function therefore didn't know if this was the actual problem. I will see what the manual suggests for carburetor cleaning, however, commrad posted above suggesting I purchase new carb boots. Could you give me a reference to a website or company that supplies these parts?
     
  10. orange55pro

    orange55pro New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2012
    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Glossop, UK
    Getting the carbs off is a bit of a deal but not that bad if you take your time. My tip is to leave the throttle cables connected and remove them from the twist grip, memorize the cable route for re-install. Use a good rubber lube on the inlet rubbers and drop the carbs in the front 2 cylinders first, then using a long thin screwdriver tease the back rubbers up over the carbs, it helps with a friend gently pushing down on the carb block. The two jets in each carb are tricky especially the small one as you need a fine piece of wire to clean that one out.
    Have a look at my album on VF500 Rebuild i have a pic of my carbs that had been stood for 6 years (not by Me).
    Cleaned them and away she went after new plugs i may add.
    Good Luck

    Dave
     
  11. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2012
    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    That does look pretty filthy. I will make sure to set aside a few days for this job since It will surely take me longer than than most people :tongue:
     
  12. pjvtec

    pjvtec New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2007
    Messages:
    236
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    West Allis, WI
    Map
    Turn the fuel off, drain carbs, crank it over a few times just to suck everything thru one last time.
     
  13. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2006
    Messages:
    9,838
    Likes Received:
    743
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Buffalo, NY
    Map
    IMG_1069.jpg IMG_1672. jpg.JPG

    It's a classic case of plugged pilot jets, and usually carb spray and compressed air are not sufficient to cure the problem, so you need to poke a .010"-.012" wire through the hole to be certain it's clear.

    Another important item is to remove each pilot (idle mixture) screw (taking extra care not to lose the small spring, washer or O-ring) and shoot some carb spray and compressed air into the hole while the idle jet is out. Shoot air in both directions by also blowing through the hole that holds the idle jet while it's out.
     
  14. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2012
    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6

    and by drain the carbs, you mean literally let fuel out? Or just burn whats left till it wont start?
     
  15. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2012
    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Great thank you for the pictures too
     
  16. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2006
    Messages:
    9,838
    Likes Received:
    743
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Buffalo, NY
    Map
    Proppa carb draining before storage involves simply opening the drain screw at the bottom of each float bowl.
     
  17. The_Hamster

    The_Hamster New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2010
    Messages:
    82
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
  18. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2012
    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
  19. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2012
    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Alright so last night I finished cleaning the jets and renstalled everything back onto the bike.
    It now runs and idles by itself, without the choke! I am very pleased with it.

    I have 2 questions though. first, the engine idles around 800-900 rpm. I dont remember it being this low. I feel like it should be closer to 1000-1200. Is 800-900 correct?

    Second question is, how do I drain the float bowls for storage? I noticed a screw in the base of each bowl (see picture, borrowed from The_Hamster). Maybe its a silly question, but is this the drain screw that was mentioned above? IMG_5005.jpg
     
  20. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2006
    Messages:
    9,838
    Likes Received:
    743
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Buffalo, NY
    Map
    That'll do it !!

    As others mentioned, it helps to crank the motor a bit after draining the float bowls to suck remaining fuel through the jets.

    |Slow idle should be easy to adjust with the screw.
     
Related Topics

Share This Page