Cam Chain Tensioners - Advice requested

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Mike, Jul 16, 2011.

  1. Metallican525

    Metallican525 New Member

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    It is tight and I think if removal of the tank wasn't such a PITA that it makes the job much easier than bending over and stuffing your head under the tank to work. I just remove the two front bolts and prop it up as per the manual.............well, kinda. I don't use the tools outta the kit to do it, I use a 12" 3/8" drive extension and an allen socket through the center hole in between the two bolt holes. Same theory as the manual I just found a better way to support it. The tools in the kit work fine for the side of the road but too unstable for me when doing major service @ my shop. Plus I think my rig gets the tank up a bit higher.
     
  2. Mike

    Mike New Member

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    Mr. M

    I guess if one knows where one is going, and you are obviously a pro at this, the removal of the tank is not that nescessary and next time ( hope not ) i will try it that way. Must say despite the procktological nature of the tank removal, it did spare me using that other vocabulary that usually comes to the fore in situations like this.

    Thanks for the input

    Regards
    Mike
     
  3. Doorag

    Doorag New Member

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    Just to revive this thread... I'm now seeing this problem too. Are the front and rear units the same? Any thought on which one is more/less likely to fail? I guess I'll start with the rear one since it's easier to access and see if/how much that helps before messing with the front one or should I just do them both?
     
  4. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf New Member

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    https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f5b1f870021c54be7bb7/cam-chain-tensioner

    Both tensioners are the same. You need parts 6, 7, 17 on the link above with 8 and 12 being optional. Be very careful not to lose part 8 when removing or you'll play hell to get it out. If you order locally, make sure you get the tensioner that is 14520-MCW-013 and not 14520-MCW-003 as the -003 model is older and depreciated. I haven't had any issues since I got the two replaced with the newer model.

    As far as doing them both, if I had the time and money available to do so, I would. I've replaced both of mine at separate times and if money wasn't an issue, I'd have just done em both to begin with.
     
  5. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    It seems the front fails more than the rear - BUT on the basis that they are only specced for 36,000m if one has failed then the other won't be far behind.
    The rear is far easier to replace - I also drilled out the 2 x "NEW' washer - I think to 2mm.. This is for the hole that provides oil to the tensioner body, the washer is a smaller diameter than the hole it covers.
     
  6. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf New Member

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    Pete, I'd assume that you mean you drilled out the oil hole that is in the gasket that allows oil to pass from the engine to the tensioner, and not the sealing crush washer on top of the tensioner. I questioned doing that myself but the more I thought about it, I believe that the hole was placed there not just to deliver oil to the tensioner, but also intentionally small to restrict the flow of oil OUT of the tensioner so that it would remain in the tensioner longer. Under pressure the oil would flow faster into the tensioner but under periods of interrupted flow it would flow out slower. At least I think that was my thought process two beers in when I did this several years ago lol.
     
  7. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    Yep that's the washer..

    My reasoning was I'd rather oil pass into it easier - than restrict oil input into it...

    If you have good oil pressure (& you should) then oil coming out is a non-issue.
     
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