Carburetor Drowning Issues

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by WernerRSA, Jul 3, 2016.

  1. WernerRSA

    WernerRSA New Member

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    I am trying t find info on the vin. I have the VIN RC361000617 and thats it. Trying t find some info online with regards to year
     
  2. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    The VIN plate will identify the year in huge block letters. :)

    I don't remember ... are there springs on the floats / float needle?
     
  3. WernerRSA

    WernerRSA New Member

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    I know this is a stupid questin, but where the hell is the VIN plate
     
  4. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    LOL ... usually on one of the frame spars (the large ones). On some older models, it was on the bottom frame rail on the left hand side.

    Here's where it was on a '94+

    [​IMG]

    It will look like this:

    [​IMG]
     
  5. WernerRSA

    WernerRSA New Member

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    Ok, both the misses and I have now gone over under even took off the tank and nothing. We checked ever nook and cranny now and cant find it.

    The wind is howling and its wet so yeah she is just as frustrated as me :p but the help is nice :D
     
  6. WernerRSA

    WernerRSA New Member

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    Only thing we fund was under the seat that said VFR750FL and the color code
     
  7. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Huh ... gotta be there somewhere unless someone removed it.
     
  8. WernerRSA

    WernerRSA New Member

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    I am thinking that ... I had the fairings off completely and I have not seen it at all. So that makes it a bit more of a challenge. Any suggestions ?
     
  9. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    You won't need to remove fairings to find it ... it will be in a spot where it's visible with them on.
     
  10. WernerRSA

    WernerRSA New Member

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    Yeah then its gone for sure
     
  11. WernerRSA

    WernerRSA New Member

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  12. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Trying to fix one problem, you're going to cause another. ALL floats MUST be set the same, that is, 9mm with no changes !! Setting at 11mm will produce a very lean mixture at higher speeds, risking engine damage.

    You have the proper washers installed on the needle seats ?? Maybe those washers are in bad condition or the seats are loose and leaking fuel around the seat ?
     
  13. WernerRSA

    WernerRSA New Member

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    There are proper washers installed. I have bought 5 cans of carb cleaner, well 2 x Wynn's Fuel System Cleaner, 2x Herschell Carburetor cleaner, and 1x Aerosol Engine Cleaner Solvent. So I am going to strip EVERYTHING and clean it. I have compressed air to blow everything out as well.

    So any advice on cleaning things out would be appreciated. Hopefully that will sort everything out. I am also going to go through each and every part of the carb to make sure that all is still right and there is no damage and if there is replace it.

    I also got hold of a nice bright LED light to work with so that I can check all of the stuff nicely.

    So hold thumbs, but I will report back on any progress. I am hoping this thread helps someone at a later stage that they dont go through the nightmare I am going through now :p
     
  14. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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  15. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    Yeah, that's another thing to check. The needle valves are spring loaded, that little nub towards the float depresses into the needle body, I think to minimize shocking on the seat and float components allowing for a gentle close. I rebuilt the carbs on a 1990 honda a few years ago, and the stem on one was completely frozen, out at least. I don't recall if I managed to free it with cleaning or it I stole one from a spare parts set. I guess it's possible for one to freeze depressed

    I think the seal material itself is Viton, should last long after the OEM o-rings in the rest of the carb have crumbled to dust. I put the 1990 era ones back and they worked fine.
     
  16. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    There's a very good write up on cleaning ST1100 carbs, which will be very similar to VFR carbs:

    http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=10249.0
     
  17. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    Those ST carbs look like more pain to remove and insert than ours--glad we don't have to deal with all that mess...
     
  18. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Yeah, swings and roundabouts I'd say. The bodywork is a bit more involved, but the carb access once you're in there is not bad. The payback is when you do a valve check or oil filter change, all the parts are basically right in front of you, and so easy to work on.

    [​IMG]
     

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  19. WernerRSA

    WernerRSA New Member

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    Ok 2 cabs of carb dip, 10 q tips, 1 bunch of steel wool, 1 old tooth brush and 3 hours later I have cleaned everything and anything I could see. There was some gunk but nothing I could say would cause the problems described.

    The wife (Which has better eyes than me) sat and inspected needles and seats and so and she did make me swap out one of the needles that she thought was suspect so I am hoping that helps.

    I have to check the float heights tonight and then put the float bowls together and then I can check it, but to be honest i am a bit afraid to put them back on the bike cause if they dont work and still piss petrol then I am at wits end as to what to look for.
     
  20. bigbadbass

    bigbadbass New Member

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    after repeated attempts...at this point consider sending your carbs out to a pro VFR carb specialist. THis is a quote from post from a year or 2 ago:

    "I mailed mine to a guy in Texas, Billy Carr. He is an expert on these carbs and sent them back in perfect condition for about $250. Attached is a photo of them after he was doneClick image for larger version.

    Name: VFR.jpg
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    Size: 71.3 KB
    ID: 28503. The bike runs like a dream now. His email is billycarrjr@earthlink.net"

    i think squirrelman may also be another member qualified...shoot him a PM.
     
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