Chain confussion

Discussion in '8th Generation 2014-Present' started by headshrink, May 9, 2018.

  1. Gator

    Gator Insider

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    I think he means bikes that are in a race series, not track bikes that see much much less track abuse. I have run DID ERV3 520 set ups on 1000cc track bikes for for 10's of thousands of miles with 0 problems. I keep them clean, lubed and in perfect alignment. The single side swing arm on VFR's make alignment a non issue.
     
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  2. headshrink

    headshrink New Member

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    Just to clarify, are you saying I have a good chance of getting it sooner if I order from another online supplier?
     
  3. Lint

    Lint Member

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    If one retailer is out, chances are very good that another will have it. If you want to save money, I ordered a stock gear ratio RK 530 chain set from Amazon. 20,000 mile warranty on it.
    RK Racing Chain 1086-980W Steel Rear Sprocket and 530XSOZ1 Chain 20,000 Mile Warranty Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GUX18M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lVe.Ab6P2FZS9

    If you have a 6th gen, they sell those sets too. The Harbor Freight chain remover tool works great to install it too. Vids on YouTube. I used a Dremel to cut my last chain off. It sliced right through the matter link plates. Sooooooo much easier than dealing with a chain breaker.
     
  4. headshrink

    headshrink New Member

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    Thanks for clarifying, I'll probably order another sprocket then. The other parts on the way are 525. I've got an 8th gen, and am going with OE stuff the first round. Once I get used to a new bike mechanically I generally feel more confident exploring aftermarket solutions.
     
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  5. headshrink

    headshrink New Member

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    ....and the second sprocket from other supplier is delayed. Those notes in their database indicating when they will ship are meaningless. There was another that said 2 left, but I question if that can be trusted.
     
  6. AndyAK

    AndyAK New Member

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    Look at each valley in your sprocket carefully. They should be symmetric and none of the points should be worn or chipped.
    At the bottom of the valley's there shouldn't be a wallowed area on one side.
    If it looks fine, there's not a lot of loss in continuing to run it.
    You want to put eyes on both.
     
  7. headshrink

    headshrink New Member

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    Thx. I never had to do it on my little bikes, because they had such low torque the sprockets never really wore much at all. I peeked through the gaps on the sprocket cover with a flashlight, and it looks pretty good in there. Honestly the rear does too, I mean it is such low mileage, but will replace rear anyway because I want to slowly replace the parts that have corrosion from being left outside by the previous owner.
     
  8. AndyAK

    AndyAK New Member

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    Most sprocket damage comes from long use or when rollers are seized up. With O'ring chain, you might have a lot of external corrosion, but as long as the rollers still turn as the chain goes around the sprocket, wear will be minimal.
    When the wear comes, it comes on the side of the valley that is "being pulled on".....the lower left of the valley if the chain is on the left of the bike, and the top of the teeth of the sprocket will begin to get "sharp." They'll be worn towards being a point, rather the usual squared off top of the tooth.
    Yeah, "best practice" is replace them all as a set, but you can be safe and economical if they're in good shape.
     
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  9. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    I'm not so sure the chain will wear more on the "left" side of the valley. As the chain wears it will naturally
    not contact the bottom of the valley as it is picked up by the sprocket. It will start to contact the sprocket
    higher up the valley because the distance between the rollers is increasing. This would show as increased
    wear on the right side of the valley, i.e. the pickup part of the sprocket.

    Not absolutely positive about this, but seems like it would work this way.
     
  10. John White

    John White New Member

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    Sorry to be a pain and enter this thread, but I have a question. New aquisition of a vfr 750fm. first time out the chain is loose and I think it's jumped a couple of teeth.Now when I'm adjusting the chain the different spots are either super loose or super tight. Can I take the back sprocket off and re fix the chain???? Thanks all. Sorry if I've put this in the wrong place but I'm new to the forum
     
  11. AndyAK

    AndyAK New Member

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    You should not. The chain is corroded internally. You might be able to "loosen it up" by soaking it in solvent or oil, but the rust is in there.
    New chain and new sprockets.
    The chain literally jumping a tooth is a pretty violent event. It COULD happen but it's very rare. Even more rare to happen with no damage.

    Even one "tight spot" in a chain means it's time to come off.
     
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  12. John White

    John White New Member

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    thank you. Any advice on what chain and sprockets?
     
  13. AndyAK

    AndyAK New Member

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    Someone else can answer that better. I've not ridden my VFR a lot yet, so I'm still stock.
     
  14. John White

    John White New Member

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    Thank you Andy
     
  15. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    My choice is DID chain, no real preference on sprockets as long as they are steel and not aluminum, but AFAM makes
    good stuff.
     
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