Electrical Loads

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by Jeff_Barrett, Apr 16, 2016.

  1. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Lolz. Pretty sure mine are the same or shorter. :p

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
     
  2. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    what size wire go to grips and vest on the grips and vest side?
     
  3. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Whatever they came with. They go directly into my fuse block.

    Fuse block uses 10g to the battery.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
     
  4. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    just wondered if they may be 16 gauge? current will rise then
     
  5. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Not a chance in hell. My wiring is 12 gage or better.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
     
  6. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    sorry was not ? your choice, but the side of the accessories
     
  7. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    No idea on the accessories themselves .. just whatever they came with.

    Everything I've done has been primarily in 12g. :)
     
  8. faran

    faran New Member

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    Bumping this thread, can this same mod be used on a 4th Gen? If so, which wires should I splice? So far, I have not been able to achieve anything above 14V. Mostly it's between 13.5-14V. Stators checks are fine and R/R is not a stock one.

    Thanks for any of your tip and help.
     
  9. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    The principal is the same for all bikes ... basically you're creating redundant / more reliable paths for the charging system.

    So ... YES!
     
  10. faran

    faran New Member

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    I understand, thank you. Is charging voltage dependent on type of R/R too?

    Also, I still have the plastic connector between stator and R/R( I keep it clean, no burning and nothing yet), should I remove and solder or keep until I see any issues?

    In terms of defining the charging paths, how did you splice? Because there are 3 wires coming out of stator and being hooked to R/R connector 3 wires.

    Thanks for the help :)
     
  11. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Yes, it is a bit ... technically, 13.5v or higher is charging .... but most I've seen put out about 14-14.5v on average at the battery when working efficiently.

    Wiring direct / soldering leads over connectors will always be more efficient and reliable. Your call though. I just made mine redundant. Splicing? Just remove some insulation from the wires and tag on your splice wires.
     
  12. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thanks again, makes sense on the splicing. Just to be clear, splicing stator side and then adding more wires to it, correct?

    Also, can I use butt connectors with heat shrink instead of soldering and can just remove the connector?

    Since I am getting 13.5 and high, not sure if I'll be able to achieve 14ishV? Maybe worth a try or wait until I see any symptoms?
     
  13. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    You can do both sides ... Stator to R/R and then R/R to Battery

    I used high quality R/C hobby bullet connectors for mine that take a ridiculous amount of amperage compared to the shitty stock blade connectors.
     
  14. faran

    faran New Member

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    Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
  15. faran

    faran New Member

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    One last thing Jeff, so if I am understanding you right. You essentially have 6 wires coming from stator and connected to 6 with R/R, correct? 3 factory ones and 3 additional ones for each side.

    Now a question, connectivity of these wires do matter because of phase, so if somehow I connected one wire to the wrong phase then stator will be toast. Correct? Thanks again :)
     
  16. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Any R/C hobby store should have 5mm bullet connectors.

    For the stator to the R/R, simply solder the wires direct ... only splice if you want a way to retain the factory connectors in the event you're on a trip and need to swap the RR or the Stator without needing to solder.

    As for phase, I don't think it matters since it's still generating a sine wave for the RR to convert to DC. I would still ensure that your wires are connected to the same ones as the OEM harness to be safe though.
     
  17. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Faran, my understanding is that on the RR-stator, you just need to remove the connector, and join any pair of yellow wires, so that you end up with three continuous yellow wires from stator to RR. Any extra load carrying wires added would be between the RR and the battery.

    I certainly saw an increase of about 0.3v from the removal of the stator-RR connector even though mine appeared to be in good shape. The real test is heat, and my yellow wires are now noticeably cooler since I cut the connector out and soldered, which tells me the connector even in apparently good condition was a source of significant resistance. I haven't added any additional load carrying wires to the 12v side of the RR yet.
     
  18. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thanks, as you can tell I am confused :p

    Now I am leaning towards removing the connector, soldering and then seeing if there are any improvements.

    Terry Smith, is yours a 6th gen or 4th?
     
  19. OZ VFR

    OZ VFR Member

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    Terry's is a 5th gen, but they're all basically the same.
    Mine is all soldered and I get 13.1v at idle with lights on, and 14.1v at 5000rpm and over.
    At lights with brake on, lights on and fan on I get 12.7v at idle. If you did this all day battery would go flat.
    This will drop a fraction as everything gets hot.
    I soldered an extra 6" of cable to both sides, and carry a spare RR on long trips, also 5 BP connectors and small side cutters so I can just snip and reconnect on the side of the road without soldering.
     
  20. faran

    faran New Member

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