Fuel leak after storage

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Lars, Jul 19, 2017.

  1. Lars

    Lars Member

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    Hello everyone.
    Well today i fired up the VFR after almost a year of storage. First it would not fire and i ran the starter a while, then i let it sit for a while and pushed it around the parking lot a little, after this it fired right up. BUT when i got it back to the garage i noticed a good flow of gasoline running down the carbs, my first thought was that it was a stuck floater, but after taking of the tank and draining the carbs i started it up with what was left in the filter. I saw where the leak was coming from and it was instant. It looks to be coming from either the t-link on the gas tube or the pipe connecting the carbs. I read that the o-rings might need to swell up a bit, so my question is, how long? For how long should i wait to fire it up again?

    PS: might mention that this is in Norway and the winters get fairly cold and its not in a heated garage.

    Also it seems that my pet-cock does not indeed close all the way, any suggestions?

    Best regards, a 23 year old who would like to take his bike for a ride.
     
  2. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    O-rings on tubes dried out and got smaller, petcock also has small o-rings. Hopefully o-ring(s) did not crack. I had same problem on my 83, found a metric o-ring assortment at an auto parts store for a very reasonable price, rather than buying OEM parts. You will need to remove carbs and remove on carb from the plate to get the tubes out. I don't have a info on how long it takes to swell the o-rings, as mine were cracked. Rubber parts are always a problem on old bikes.
     
  3. squirrelman

    squirrelman Well-Known Member

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    ^^ usually takes about one or two days--with fuel kept in carbs--for rubber bits to swell and seal again. heat helps, so if you can get the engine warm, do it.

    shrunken float bowl gaskets usually heal OK, but IF the leaks are from fuel tube O-rings, they seldom heal, and a difficult process is needed to renew them. worth waiting for rings to swell as the replacement takes hours !! and you'll be swearing, "Raeva mi verker" before the job is done. :mad:
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
  4. Lars

    Lars Member

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    Thanks for the replies, hoping that they will swell out again. The carbs were re-jetted 2 years ago before i bought, so i would find it weird if they didn't replace every seal when they had them out, thats at least what i would have done. Will recheck the bike tomorrow and hoping for the best.
     
  5. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Active Member

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    I would find it weird if a shop DID do that. Of course I would replace seals when they are out on a 30 year old machine.
    They may swell back up and be ok for now, but one of these days whatever is leaking is going to really fail. And it won't be in your driveway. Do it all now.
     
  6. Lars

    Lars Member

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    Yeah, checked with previous owner, he re-jetted the carbs for a new exhaust, but your right, he didn't replace the orings. Sooo how big of a dick is the job? I am fairly handy and have done carb rebuilds on singel carbs before, and can get help from a mechanic friend, and i am a mechanical engineer student, so my school has the tools if for some reason i shouldn't have them myself.
     
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  7. VF1000Fe

    VF1000Fe Member

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    I just performed this Ritual.
    You need to be methodical and organized, but its no big deal.
    Remove the outside carbs one at a time, and gently, so you don't break the brittle phenolic tubes.
    I could not find replacement O-Rings for the upper Vent tubes, but they are more of a dust seal anyway.
    The Carb Mounting Plenum was real grungy, so I sand blasted it.
    The Fuel Tube O-Rings were off the shelf.
    Take pictures first for reference.
    The Low Speed Jet O-Rings had to be ordered in, but only took a few days.
    I'd give ya the O-Ring dimensions, but my VF1000F 36mm CV carbs are different than yours.
    The Fuel Tube O-Rings were compressed (after 33 years) and weeping gas.
    Also replace those wimpy wire Fuel Hose clamps from Honda with something more substantial.
    [​IMG]
    Pick a bunch off some old cars at the Scrap Yard.
    Also check the Float Heights while its all apart.
    Pay attention to the Low Speed Jet circuit, it gets the dirtiest, and affects first half throttle the most.
    Was an easier task than I thought, good thing, I gots 2 more V4 carb banks to do,,..
     
  8. Lars

    Lars Member

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    Thanks! When i take the carbs out, i'm guessing i take out the whole plate, then take them of one by one right? The carbs where re-jetted a couple of years ago and runs perfect ( or at least did last season :Cry:), previous owner said he replaced the other o-rings. Do i have to re-adjust them after if i only replace the fuel rail o-rings?
     
  9. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Only need to remove ONE carb from plate, that will allow you remove tubes and change O-rings.
     
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  10. Lars

    Lars Member

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    That doesn't sound too bad, what makes this job such a pain? And do they need re-adjusting? I mean, i am not planning on doing anything with the needle or idle.
     
  11. Lars

    Lars Member

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    Fired it up on Sunday, no leaks and runs better than every with a new battery. I will rebuild the carburetors during the winter, any good place to purchase OEM or aftermarket gaskets? Will gaskets from a newer bike work?
     
  12. fredsncoma

    fredsncoma Member

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    When you take the carbs off leave the plenum on and remove the whole set as one unit or you will NEVER get them back together. once off you can then try removing one carb at a time to clean and replace o-rings. but I would NOT completly disassemble the entire set at once.
     
  13. Lars

    Lars Member

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    I understand, this will be next year's problem got any tips on how to avoid this problem for the next season?
     
  14. Anyoldiron

    Anyoldiron New Member

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    Your kinda screwed like us, with 4-7 month riding season. This is what i do to all my bikes, i put 1/2 gallon of ethanol free 91oct with stabil or any decent fuel stabilizer, and a table spoon ish of engine oil in the gas tank, l slosh it around the tank and run it through the system, turn the fuel of and leave it. The reasoning behind this is if you drain them empty empty there is a good chance some o ring/s will perish, then in the spring i drain the tank which has remained rust free due to the oil in the gas, put fresh fuel in and good to go. l have not had to clean carbs or fix leaks on a bike ive owned for six or seven years and counting doing this.
     
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