got the $900 cl bike back from the local shop

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by loosenoose, Sep 2, 2017.

  1. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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    Yeah, its much better now. Yesterday when the bike was running, it was doing so around 217 most of the time.
    No issues there. Im still dealing with the water i got in my fill up yesterday.
    I added heet a while ago, to get the water out. I couldnt start after i added it. Im letting the bike sit for a few minutes and then im going tontry again.
     
  2. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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    update:
    i think i meant to post it in this thread... maybe i posted in the chat... i have no clue.
    i got water in my gas during a fill up the other day. i've only put about 60 miles on the bike :(
    i cant get it to run. it wil start and kind of run a little... there's a little combustion and all that, but... well, please watch the video. i drained the tank and put HEET water remover in with fresh gas. i have attempted to start it probably something like 200 times.
    any help would be greatly appreciated. i'm going to be taking the throttle body assembly off when i get home from work. i plan on cleaning the injectors. i really dont want to open the tank up at the water pump. i rtv'd that crap, and it's worked pretty well.
     
  3. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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    i'm going through some of the plumbing on the bike right now. i emptied everything from the tank. there some rust dust #$@%@%TWERGHERBBB
    there are some things that are strange to me... the vacuum chamber and bypass solenoid valve are linked together with hoses and there's a sensor that is tied in to it and the rest of the wire harness, but one of the vac hoses are cut, and it's effectively useless. can i just take this crap off now? the bike did run great before i got water in my gas. there is also some kind of connection that i'm guessing is for a throttle position sensor, and i cant find anything that connects into it. what the hack, guys... how did my bike even run? i'm taking a little break to get a drink and look at the service manual. i'm going to put gas in the tank soon and see if i can get life again. wish me luck!
     
  4. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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    disregard on the TPS. i found it hiding on the other side.
    i got fresh gas, and the bike ran for a moment and was then hesitant again. when i was emptying the tank, i took out the fuel level float thing, and i forgot about those darned ol' torque specs, so i'm back inside looking for answers, food, and drink
     
  5. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I think what you are referring to is the PAIR and maybe charcoal canister systems.

    The charcoal canister system is there to trap vapours coming from the fuel tank, and at pre-selected times the ECU will open a solenoid valve to allow the vapours to be sucked back through the airbox and into the intakes. The canister is located down in front of the engine. You can remove the charcoal canister and associated plumbing (but make sure there are no new vacuum leaks) and the bike won't care, but the sea level will rise a little faster.

    The PAIR system is intended to introduce fresh air to the exhaust manifolds to help burn off any remaining unburnt fuel. The PAIR system is fed filtered air from the bottom of the airbox, through a solenoid valve hanging off the front of the airbox, then two hoses go to each of the cam covers and through a reed valve there. If you blank off the pair valves at the cam cover (buy or make some block-off plates) and seal off the vacuum port at the airbox, you can disconnect the rest and put it in a bin. Some polar bears will get a little sunburnt but the bike won't care.

    The last bit of plumbing is for the flapper valve in the airbox. Vacuum comes from the airbox to a solenoid valve then to the flapper actuator on the arbox lid. Personally I'd leave this one in place, all it does is make more intake noise, maybe loses a little low-end torque IMO.

    Really as long as the bike has all the required sensors connected (ECT, MAP, TPS, IAT) it should run fine, just make sure you don't have any unsealed holes leading into the airbox/inlets or the PAIR valves on the cam cover.
     
  6. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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    i'd love it if the bike was in stock condition! the previous owner to the previous owner did a half ass pair delete, and the bike sat with old gas in it forever. i think what i'm dealing with now is no longer water in gas. i got all that out. now i'm dealing with tank rust, again. idk if it came back with a vengeance, because of the water in the gas, or what. i really dont want to take the fuel pump out, but i think that's where i'm headed. i really need a new, good, gas tank, but i cant afford that for a while. i donated a good chunk o money to my friend, who lost everything in harvey
     
  7. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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    update on the bike:
    please help me oh god.
    i cleaned out the tank all over again yesterday. there was a lot of rust flaking. i knocked so much loose with a rubber mallet and shop vac'd it out. i replaced the gas with fresh high octane and went for a test ride. the test ride went well, aside from the coolant boiling like it did the first time i rode the bike. i refilled the coolant after it had cooled down. i let the bike run with the rad cap off and topped the coolant off before re capping. this fixed my overheating issues the first time. it seemed to work again.
    i got geared up for an actual ride, to go meet people. the bike was performing so well. totally didnt expect it to just suddenly die 8 miles from home. i checked youtube, and the closest i could find to what happened to my bike was a 6th gen vfr had a fuse blow and some of his harness melted. i checked the fuses and harness this morning, and neither of those issues are the problem.
    the bike makes all the sounds like it should when it is being started, but it wont turn over. suspect this is an electrical problem, vs a fueling issue, because the engine completely died all at once. it didnt get weak and limp to it's death like it did last week.
    any suggestions/ideas? things to check for? i could really use some help. i dont have the money to take it to a shop again.
     
  8. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    Check that the spark plugs are firing and double check the all the fuses and that the kill switch isn't on. Believe it or not, this last one has halted many riders and although can be embarrassing, it has happened to the best of us. I'd also check any and all connectors in the wiring harness. Check to see if they are melted or loose. You might find that the wiring is getting too much resistance and is over heating, thus melting the connectors and wire sheathing. Loose and or corroded grounds can often be the cause of wiring issues.
     
  9. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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    i hadnt thought to check that the spark plugs are actually sparking. i'll do that. it's definitely not the kill switch. when that's activated, the bike wont even attempt to turn over. the thing is turning now, and everything sounds like it should. i'll check on the plugs though. good suggestion.
    i bought a new tank, filter, and pump off ebay. they should be at my house in around 10 days. i'll do what i can to further clean, and prep the bike for road worthiness. i'm REALLY tempted to go naked with it. just put the tail fairing back on and sell the rest. i prefer a naked bike anyway.
     
  10. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    Nothing wrong with going naked, especially if you're a young and vivacious female with a smoking body!

    Truth be told, the main issue with going naked with a VFR is the wiring harness that is behind the front fairing. It takes some clever and tedious work to make that all look clean once the front cowl is removed. Take a look over at VFRDiscussion.com and look for Sebspeed's and I believe ApexAndy's post on their naked builds. Both look like something Honda built as a prototype but never released them to the public.
     
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  11. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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    yeah, a full nude job would be a pretty big undertaking, if i want to do it well. i'm not sure i've seen a good looking naked 800 yet, but there have been some very nicely done 750's. i dont want anything crazy, just a basic, naked vfr. cleanish front end, with a 7 inch headlight, MAYBE eventually a small gauge pod, like a koso or something similar... i hate wiring though, lol.

    first, i need to figure out why my bike isnt firing. unfortunately, i am at work all day. :(
    boss, my bike isnt very well at all. i probably need to go home and take care of her!

    i might pull a spark plug when i get home, to see if i even am getting spark.
     
  12. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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    I found the gremlin!! There was a connection under the dash that wasnt good. I unplugged and replygged everything and now it works great!
     
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  13. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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  14. loosenoose

    loosenoose New Member

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    On the ride yesterday, my left mirror fell off and broke into 100000 pcs. Other than the stock mirror, are there any good known alternatives? The mirrors ln my previous bike, a cbr250r were the absolute best mirrors i have had on any of my 14 bikes. If those are a direct swap, i'll be a happy mofo

    Also, will the grab bars from the newer '14+ vfr's fit? My vfr came wirh no hrab bars, and i hate the holes left in their absence. If not, whats a good, and fairly inexpensive top rack that uses those mounts?

    Lastly, i like helibars, but they sure are $$$. Is there a cheaper alternative that has proven it's worth?
    I found these, which look very good, but like i might also have to replace my cables and hydraulic control lines, which i'd rather not
    https://japan.webike.net/products/2076546.html
     
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