HELP - No front brake after pad change

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by k1c, Jul 8, 2018.

  1. k1c

    k1c New Member

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    Just put in a set of new front brake pads on my 2000 5TH GEN. No leaks or crimped lines. Problem is that there is absolutely NO pressure at the brake lever, even after minutes of pumping trying to get pressure back. Brake worked perfectly prior to starting the pad replacement.

    Other than pushing back the the old pads and calipers to allow room for the new pads and sliding the pads into place nothing else was touched.

    I've done this job before on this bike, not to mention at least a dozen pad changes on various cars, and never run into this problem before.

    Anyone have an idea what might be wrong?
     
  2. VFR4Lee

    VFR4Lee New Member

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    This can only mean 1 thing. :batman:
    Flush out the old fluid with new, and bleed.
    The brakes, not your blood.
     
  3. k1c

    k1c New Member

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    Oh my!
    Will do.
    Does a rebuild kit for the MC make sense? New brake lines?
    I bleed brake fluid!:(
     
  4. VFR4Lee

    VFR4Lee New Member

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    Well, it is 18 yo. A lot depends on prior maint. Easy case, change fluid and bleed, and you are good. Not so easy, new lines, rebuild cylinders, calipers, yadda.
    Others will have better answers, but there is no substitute for seeing it in person. Pics would still be helpful. Good luck.
     
  5. Y2Kviffer

    Y2Kviffer New Member

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    If you didn't remove a little fluid first, the 18 yo MC seals likely failed due to excess pressure being forced back...
     
  6. k1c

    k1c New Member

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    Caliper seals?

    MC seals?

    All of the above?
     
  7. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Try bleeding the mc first. push lever hard and hold, then just for a moment crack the banjo bolt and retighten immerdiately. if no pressure try again and use new fluid. flush system.

    or remove bb and place thumb over mc outlet and pump lever until pressure builds. then connect bb while holding lever.

    remove mc from bar and hold bb up, tap lightly.

    you can always try flushing backwards with a syringe.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2018
  8. k1c

    k1c New Member

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    We'll, I emptied the master cylinder and cleaned out the old brake fluid, and a small amount of gunk, and then poked a bristle into the little hole at the bottom of the cylinder, which seems to be patent. The brake lever is still flopping around like a dead fish.



    I have decided to replace the caliper seals and any moving parts in the MC and reflush. I have a BikeMaster vacuum bleeder and was considering installing speed bleeders. Would anyone know if the Goodridge #SB8125 SpeedBleeder the right one for this bike?
     
  9. k1c

    k1c New Member

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    I just received this suggestion over on VFRD from VFROZ:


    "If it was the caliper seals, you would have fluid running out all over the calipers.

    I can nearly guarantee you it is caused by an air lock on your top banjo, this has happened to me and many others who own VFR's.

    Top up the master, install lid and remove it from handle bar.

    Now angle it so the banjo is the lowest point and quickly operate the lever many times while you give it a good shake.

    You will feel when resistance returns."



    BINGO! Or shouldI say BANJO?!!



    Thanks VFROZ. One wrinkle though. I removed the MCfilled up with brake fluid, replaced the cap, turned the banjo fitting to the bottom and pumped and shook, and pumped and shook, and pumped and shook. Still nothing. It did not seem that the MC piston was moving correctly, so I reached in with a pair of needle nosed pliers and started to move it up and down. After about 30 "pumps" the pressure returned to the lever like magic. Topped off the brake fluid again and now I have brakes again!



    Still thinking about the SpeedBleeders as the brake fluid is a tea-ish color. Anyone know if the Goodridge #SB8125 items would fit?



    Thanks Again for all the input. VFR forums just ROCK!
     
  10. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe New Member

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    Lint likes this.
  11. fink

    fink Insider

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    Glad to hear you are now sorted. Easier solution is to unbolt the master cylinder and tilt it so the banjo bolt is at the lowest point, a few pumps should clear any air bubbles.

    Personally I use a 20 ml syringe with a bit of clear rubber tubing does the job just grand.
     
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