How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by Rubo, Jul 7, 2012.

  1. duccmann

    duccmann Member

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    Specific size for butt connectors? Ask SOW
     
  2. faran

    faran New Member

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    What's SOW?
     
  3. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    If it shows signs of heat damage yes - cut out the connector and replace with proper soldered and heat shrink joints. I can't comment on 4th gens but by the 6th gens the stator connector had only three yellow wires.

    SOW is another to add to your forum comedian list!

    SkiMad
     
  4. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    You beat me to it.. &^%%$##!
     
  5. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thanks SkiMad. So far no signs for heat damage or any burning signs but I'll solder them.
     
  6. supernatural5

    supernatural5 New Member

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    So I've done the drill....



    2007 VFR800
    Battery, Good
    When running, volts to battery never over 12 VDC
    The stator plug looks acceptable as well.
    Stator has continuity between L1 L2 L3
    Stator ALSO has continuity between L1,G L2,G AND L3,G of 1 OHM, This is puzzling.
    While idle, L1-L2 9VAC, L1-L3 17VAC, L3-L2 9VAC
    At 5K RPM 19VAC 44VAC 18VAC
    Leading me to replace Stator, I have a hard time buying the fact all 3 winding's burned at once??
    Any thoughts?

    Thanks
     
  7. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Just be glad this isn't the Gold Wing Forum, I was talking a local shop today, and he said you have to pull the engine to change the stators in old GW's!
     
  8. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Stator def bad....
     
  9. supernatural5

    supernatural5 New Member

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    Agreed, but did a dying RR burn it up?
     
  10. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    Could be who knows, was there any damage to the connector?
     
  11. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    So according to the mountainous gurus a non fallible R/R could be built for a couple of grand? This allowing for the differential in dollars to pesos, brand loyalty, shipping and handling and other factors too numerous to mention, and the usual sixteen page disclaimer writ in hard to read nannoprint by bean counter driven lawyers who mostly ride Harleys.
     
  12. supernatural5

    supernatural5 New Member

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    IMG_1418.jpg IMG_1419.jpg

    All connectors looked fine
    I bought everything. Should be here tuesday.
     
  13. brimoore99

    brimoore99 New Member

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    I'm in the process of replacing stator and R/R after the previous VFRness caught fire and burned up wiring and a portion of my fairing. I WANT to directly solder the stator wires to the R/R as it seems the only way to ensure a solid, resistance free connection. I just don't like the non-easably-removability of a soldered on component. But I do NOT want another fire even more!
     
  14. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    I agree that the solder can be a bit of a pain, but if you think about it and use good parts you should never need to undo the solder joints anyway ever again
     
  15. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    I agree - the ability to quickly separate that join is no biggee! A decent knife is all you would need to remove the heatshrink and a few minutes with a soldering iron will neatly separate the individual wires.. It might add 20 minutes to the task of swapping out a stator, but a soldered connection removes one of the most common reasons why you need to remove the stator!



    SkiMad
     
  16. The Cardinal

    The Cardinal New Member

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    Thank you for this great guide thread

    To everyone who's contributed to this useful thread, thank you. Without this thread, I wouldn't have a hope in hell of solving my recent catastrophe.

    My 2000 Fi-Y literally caught fire last week, stock everything (electrical wise), 57,000 miles. Presuming the Reg/Rec or stator did its magic trick of overheating that under-engineered connector, and set that whole area on fire under my seat! Shitter.

    I'll be going through the drill no doubt, once I've got a new wiring loom installed and replaced various plastics, battery etc... I may or may not go down the VFRness route, but this forum has been such an incredible resource, I had to say thanks.

    If anyone in the UK has a link for the current best replacement for the regulator rectifier, whether thats the Yamaha R1's, whatever's on the latest VFR's is or the FH012AA, please speak up! Otherwise I guess I'll go with we-moto.co.uk's suggestion.

    Picture of my misfortune attached...

    20160901_132248.jpg
     
  17. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    Yeah, a little too late to do the drill! Not too late to add a volt meter after you get this issue resolved. Good luck with your task.

    Cheers
     
  18. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    Honda want fucking for the continued use of a known failure point with the connector
     
  19. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    A big Hi to "The Cardinal" - even if it is in response to a rather sad first post - welcome to the MadHouse:welcome::!

    Your introductory photo presents a truly scary sight. I hope you were not riding the bike at the time!

    From your question I guess that you are already keen to start putting the bike back to running order. But don't forget it is a 16 year old bike, so take your time to do the maths before you decide whether to buy any replacement bits as it looks like the bike may have suffered a lot of electrical damage and presumably damage to the seat and rear fairing panel.

    From a single photo, it is difficult to work out the full extent of damage, but if you need to factor in labor time charges, replacement fairing parts and a partial re-spray, then the cost may be at the point where finding a ready to ride - similar replacement bike, may be a better option than attempting to repair it. Don't forget the potential residual parts value selling off serviceable 2nd hand parts through eBay or the likes.

    If you proceed to repair the bike - I cannot offer any view on the we-moto parts - other than suggest you spend some google time just in case it digs up any history positive or negative to be aware of. As you will clearly have a fair bit of electrical fettling to tackle, I guess modifying the electricals to work with a Shindigen R1 RR would be a sensible upgrade and you should be able to obtain the parts you need from a UK Yamaha dealer. The kits sold by Roadstercycle in the States would be another upgrade route, but sadly the cost of shipping over a unit could be relatively high. Please note their site reports, there are some dubious RRs being offered on TheBay which you may want to avoid.

    Let us know how you get on.




    SkiMad
     
  20. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Holy shit! You got a mess to deal with.
    Get the FH020AA R/R from --- www.roadstercycle.com -- dont cheap out on something else.
     
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