How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

Just want to say thank you again to everyone for their help with this. I learned a lot and so far everything has checked out. I even took the time to install a digital volt meter to keep an eye on things. So glad this forum/resource exists.

 

On a 6th gen aside from the recall being done, what else is considered prudent? Vfr ness and MOSFET rectifier?
How do heated grips effect things? It would seem that they help reduce the possibility of a fried rectifier as it draws potentially excess current.


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i would say that the VFRNess and a MOSFET R/R would be a good addition so that you know the charging system will be working properly. If you were to add heated gear and heated grips they will draw a reasonable amount of current and if the charging system were already weak they could hasten the problems. The bikes charging system should easily be able to handle the excess draw providing it is working properly. I used to ride with a heated vest on high while riding my last bike (97 VFR) but at first had huge problems with excess draw. Once I discovered that's the R/R was near death and changed it, I had no issues afterwards.

 

I'll get roasted for this, but here goes. My first question is: How many other Hondas does the VFR's stator also fit? A few, I believe. Do these other bikes have the same charging problems? If not, what is different in these other bikes systems? What prompted my suspicion is a previous bike, a Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans. In it's owners manual, it directly addresses battery placement, as well as battery type. A lead/acid battery should never be positioned with it's connecting lugs at or below acid level. Period. (as Obama would say). The Guzzi manual advises an AGM or gel battery be placed if the battery position is such that the lugs are near, or below, acid level. And that such battery be clearly marked as suitable for "all position" use. The reason for this is that battery acid contacting the lugs (including the connecting bridges) may cause a short in the charging system. With a short, the charging amperage will be at a maximum for extended periods, causing heat and breakdown. This from a Moto Guzzi manual. My 1998 VFR has the battery placed with a 45 deg lean with the lugs down. When I got the bike, the previous owner was putting a new battery in it yearly or less (top dollar Yuasa lead acid), and it lived on a battery tender. After a few low battery episodes, I switched to a gel battery. No further problems, even with my running heated grips and a heated vest. You can fix the symptoms, or you can fix the problem.

 

I don't think you'll get roasted: its an interesting concept about the battery. And while it may be true (and something I might personally consider), it doesn't change the fact that the wiring used by Honda on the R/R to stator connections was just inadequate (although I don't specifically recall what gauge wiring it is). Kind of like running a 17000BTU air conditioner through an 18 gauge extension cord. It'll work, but not for long.

Also, the original R/R on the VFR were just a bad design; poor positioning with no air flow and little to no ability to heat sink properly (not to mention they weren't MOSFET). So even with an "all position" battery, it doesn't change a design flaw by Honda. Its no wonder they moved the R/R to the front of the bike in 2006. Maybe teh fact that the battery box is at angle is yet another design flaw...

 

+ 1 on this

Yes basically the same faults appear on other Honda bikes - just search the hondahornet.org or Fireblades.org websites and you will see plenty of similar tales of woe and very similar advice being dispensed on how to diagnose and fix the problem.

Fundamentally most of the charging system is bought in and inevitably external suppliers will build stuff primarily to a budget(and profit) rather than reliability. As long as failures occur after the warranty period - it can be seen as a winner for everyone (except the stranded owner) as dealers will probably be happy to have a plentiful supply of chargeable work.

As for battery tilt angle I guess if it is tilted far enough to expose some of the plates then it won't help longevity. But as Pliskin says on the early VFRs the real problem seemed to be linked to loom defects (connectors and inadequate wiring gauge) and stupid RR design/location. Whilst hot engine oil seems to kill stators on newer bikes. In most cases I have come across, the battery seemed to be victim of the defects rather than the cause. Interestingly Yamaha whilst running a generically similar charging system took a different stance by spending a bit more to fit decent wiring and MOSFET RRs and produced rather more reliable charging systems.

Just my 2p - and I wish Honda had spent it!:soapbox:


SkiMad

 

That looks more like you roasted a marshmallow Mello..when they get all black and gooey from lighting on fire.

 

Hi Rubo

I am only average at electrics but this video was great in helping me understand a bit, I have a vfr 2001 800FI and the symptom is that i took it for a 20 mile ride the other day, then stopped the machine then tried to start it straight away and it was as though the battery was flat, I left it for one hour then it started fine, also I have noticed that the digital clock and trip meter keep resetting, do you think is the rectifier,

By the way if I don't hear from you i will try and do these tests. as these parts are not cheap and I dont want to buy the wrong parts,

Thanks once again for a great bit of info

Steve

 

Thanks for the info, yes Ian am familiar with these basic settings I just wanted tomake sure that it is ohms setting for testing the Rr,
Any thoughts on how to determine which spade connector is which for testing,
Thanks again

 

I found a melted wire next to the Main "B" 30 amp fuse when I put her away last fall. I fixed the wire and installed the VFRness this spring. Did the complete "Drill" and my charging rate went from 14.1 volts to 14.8 volts. The VFRness is amazing and the guy that makes them is extremely helpful.

Do "The Drill" and install the VFRness from "Wire my Bike".

My bike is a 2007 with 20k miles, so NO they did not fix the problem in 2006.

 

After initial tests found Rr faulty, now ordered new one, hope I got it right, thanks for the info,

Steve

 

Thanks for the info, now ordered new rectifier

 

Do "THE Drill" again after the new R/R is put in.

 

i keep checking my wires and connectors every year on my bike, I make sure they are clean and tight and have not had a problem at all............... yet

 

Famous last words... ray2:


Be Lucky!


SkiMad