Hello everyone, need a little help here-- I have an 07 VFR with about 10,000 miles on it. The other day after a short ride i stopped somewhere for food and afterwards the bike would not start--it would crank n crank but wouldn't turn over. Eventually the battery died trying to start the bike. I look under the seat to find the smaller connector attached to the 30 Amp Fuse holder melted. (see pics attached)So I got the bike home, cut this connector out and soldered the wires together. The bike does start now. Is it ok that I bypassed this connector? I dont see any other purpose for it. DID I DO THE RIGHT THING? Is there anything else i should do? I did check the Rectifier Cables and connections, none are melted or discolored. Battery is fully Charged by Battery Tender JR.-- Some history on the bike, I do have LED accent strips installed --wired directly to battery with in line fuse and Heated grips wired to battery with in line fuse. And also the battery tender Junior adapter wired to battery with the in line fuse. Do I need a VFRness or Do I need some kind of Power Distribution box like the Danali power distribution box? Any help will be greatly appreciated -
Ultimately the best bet to keep issues from returning or popping up elsewhere is to replace the RR with a newer type of MOSFET RR (i.e. Shindengen FH020A) and keep the connections clean and add a volt meter to keep an on things. As far as the VFRNess goes, that is one option but if my memory serves me right, the 2002-2005 were the ones that benefited the most from this as Honda improved the wiring harness on the 2006+ models but as they say, probably wouldn't hurt. If you change out the RR and do the common wiring "bypass" of the connectors, you'll gain more reliability IMO. Using Oxguard on the main connectors will also help increase reliability. Personally, motorcycles need more attention than cars as they are more exposed to the elements and is something we all seem to neglect. Most of us, myself included, get lazy and just like to gas and go, like we do with our cars. How often do we even check tire pressure? I know that if/when I am planning a trip, I go over the bike with a little more diligence, I don't want to be that guy who ruined the ride because he broke down on the side of the road! Regarding the power controller, I have the PDM60 on both my VFRs and they work similarly to the Denali, except it is programmable. I have one circuit setup to trigger a relay that allows power to flow to my volt meter directly from the battery and gives me the ability to check battery voltage without the key in the ignition. This same circuit is also power when the ignition is on, so before I ride and while I'm riding I can monitor the battery voltage. I like having the power controller and I like that I can program different circuits, like the volt meter circuit, to do different things. There are delay on and delay off times as well as electronically changing the "soft fuse" level. i.e. go from 5 amps to 15 amps using their software. It is more pricey than the Denali but it will do more. There are other less costly items like the 'Fuzeblock' that are not as versatile but do essentially the same thing, control power circuits. http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ Ironically, theory says that the more power you draw, within reason reason of course, actually keeps the RR from working as hard. Meaning that the more voltage drawn from the stator means less voltage the RR has to scrub off. Although I have not tried to test this theory out by adding extra voltage draw, I think the science behind it would stand up.
You are absolutely right, stock R/R shunt unused power to ground, "Series" R/R only deliver what is required, ideal for race bikes that don't run lights and have less draw than normal, check out RoadsterCycle.com.
