My rectifier fried...

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by rc24ste, Aug 27, 2017.

  1. rc24ste

    rc24ste New Member

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    I'm no expert on these things but it sounds like your battery is goosed!
    By the way, I like the look of your FH VFR! Looks good in that silver colour. There's a few mods over my FG model too. Mostly to the ignition system
     
  2. JamesHambleton

    JamesHambleton New Member

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    You know your models well she is indeed an FH but it's actually a pale blue, apparently it's a rare colour which means it's an absolute ballache trying to find replacement parts in the same colour, never mind decent nick.
    When funds allow I'll be buying a maintenance free battery and see if that resolves the electrical issue.
     
  3. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    This thread is getting confusing with two people discussing different charging issues..

    It will be good if RC24ste can provide an update once they get a new RR.


    As for James - fit a new battery - an appropriate size yuasa should work fine. The ability to diagnose issues with this sort of balanced charging system MUST start with a healthy charged battery. Without a healthy battery you can get misleading results on the subsequent charging system checks set out in "the drill".

    If you are not sure which model battery to fit you should be able to locate the best choice here ..

    http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/Yuasa_Specs_Apps_2015.pdf

    (Honda motorbikes are listed mid way down around page 20.)

    All four elements (battery, loom, RR, stator) of the charging system on these bikes need to be in good order, and a fault in any one can also damage some or all of the others. Think of it this way these bikes work fine whilst electrical demands are broadly matched with electrical supply - the sweet spot. BUT if your battery is failing, it starts to demand more and more effort from the RR to replace the energy drained at start-up. This forces the RR to operate in higher output mode for progressively longer periods. Of course the charging system can handle the high output mode for a while - but not constantly. Things can get really bad if one cell in a battery develops an internal short as it can see the RR, stator and loom all trying to handle significant current flows - plenty enough for things to heat up alarmingly, melt connectors or even starting fires.

    That is why it is a good idea to fit a basic voltmeter to an ignition live circuit which will allow you to monitor what is going on with your charging system as you ride. It won't stop charging system faults, but it will allow you to get a feel for normal behaviour, and then if you see volts shoot through the roof, or fall through the floor, you have a chance to head for a safe place to get the bike checked before expensive damage is caused or you end up stranded.


    SkiMad
     
  4. scottbott

    scottbott Member

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    what about fitting one of these, they can be left connected all the time, and are hopefully waterproof


    [​IMG]
     
  5. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    yes that would work BUT- you may have fun locating a place to mount something that big securely in the binnacle.

    You might consider something like this -
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Digit...263990&hash=item3f79a251a7:g:3KQAAOSwls5Y6QkY
    The wires can be tucked down the back of the clocks and connected out of sight to earth and any ignition controlled circuit - I went with the running lights. a self adhesive Velcro patch is plenty to secure the display. These units are rarely super accurate but they will allow you to quickly work out what values are normal and should give you a chance of spotting unusual voltages - hopefully before it gets too costly.

    SkiMad
     
  6. rc24ste

    rc24ste New Member

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    I'm just waiting for Electrex to credit my account and my bike is still off the road languishing in my leaky garage.

    In the meantime I've been having a look at RRs out there on the market. The posh Shindengen FH020AA looks good but as I live in the UK getting hold of one will be expensive and it does not fit in the space allocated for the OEM RR. So, it's a case of trying to find somewhere to mount the Shindengen RR which will not be easy as space is at a premium around the rear sub-frame. I saw one on YouTube fitted to a USA RC24 via an existing threaded mount on the sub-frame but, (no offence meant) it was perhaps not the best location as it would foul the side panel when fitted - I think - and was only held on by one bolt.

    In the meantime I came across this:
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VFR...386857?hash=item416a5d8069:g:huwAAOxyOMdS5JE2

    The price seems okay(ish) and it is located in the UK. I also compared this RR to my OEM fried VFR RR and it is an exact copy (well, externally...) suggesting a pattern part with some thought gone into it - a faithful copy? Or, is it just a bag of sh**e pretending to be something decent? If this pattern RR is not so good then I could really use some help with locating the Shindengen on my bike. Or, put another way, I don't know where to put it or even where to start - said my mechanic skills were not the best!

    Any one out there fitted a Shindengen FH020AA to an 86 VFR 750 or 700? An idiot's guide would be hugely appreciated!

    Thanks

    Steve
     
  7. rc24ste

    rc24ste New Member

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    Even though I asked for a refund, Electrex have returned my RR!!

    A test report certificate done by someone called Russell came with it stating the following:

    Regulated DC voltage - no load: 14.59 volts
    Regulated DC voltage - with load 300W: 14.08 volts
    Current leakage - less than 15 mA: OK
    Earth insulation: OK
    Connector condition: OK
    Comments: "test at 5000 RPM using CBR1100 generator and rotor"

    On the invoice, the following is stated: "TESTED, NOT FAULTY, RETURNED"

    Phew, this is all getting difficult!
     
  8. JamesHambleton

    JamesHambleton New Member

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  9. rc24ste

    rc24ste New Member

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    Time for an update.

    Electrexworld were telling the truth. There is nothing wrong with their RR! I tested it myself by hooking up my multi-meter to the red and green output cables and got textbook safe voltages at all revs. So, rightly or wrongly I've decided to keep the Electrex RR. A friend of mine is a Honda factory trained bike mechanic with 25+ years service - he's fitted loads of Electrex RRs without any problems or comebacks.

    Feeling good about the RR I delved deeper into the bike's charging system and found dodgy wires in the loom that connect the RR to the battery, fuse, etc. When the original RR shat itself and set on fire it must have damaged this wiring. No wonder I was getting dodgy voltage readings at the battery! In fact, prior to discovering the dodgy wiring I hooked up the Electrex RR to my loom again, started the bike and bang, the 30A main fuse immediately blew!

    To bypass the fried wiring I made up my own connector (thanks Electrex!) between battery and RR. Result? The bike works perfectly and I get voltages at the battery at all revs which are in accordance with my factory manual. The RR is working perfectly and I'm back on the road!

    Phew, a happy ending! I think over the winter I will open up the loom to see exactly what the fried wires look like and try and remove them.

    If my Electrex RR goes bang I'll post an update. In the meantime I will rig up a little voltmeter as per one of the posts above so I can keep an eye on things at all times.

    It's all been a bit stressful but thanks to you guys I have learnt a lot and managed to get back on the road. Result. I hope!

    It all gives me time to save up for a posh Roadstercycle MOSFET jobbie.

    Thanks

    Steve
     
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