A couple things have got me thinking. And the temps are rising world wide because of it. irishrOy's issue with the bubble in his paint on the tanks is a quiz to try to figure out, and what to do about it once the issue is resolve. Also I lad lent my truck to a friend to use and he accidentally backed into his house with the tailgate down after he washed it, and the hinges on one side got bent. I had to order new hinges to replace the bent ones. (he paid) Naturally they needed priming and painting. So. Onto the meat of this thread. I have never really been happy with rattle can paint results with the limited number of times I have used them. but for this project, hinges that are barely seen, I thought I would fly at it. The hinges had to be primed and painted because new hinges came unfinished and the would rust easily. Not only would that look like hell on the truck, but it would leave a huge rust stain on my driveway. (I am anal). So off I go to get paint. It had to match perfectly. Several here have praised the presence of Duplicolour paints. I still have the build sheet for my truck so I was able to get the actual paint name. Canadian Tire had a good selection of paint and I got the right colour. It was a perfect match. But what really impressed me was how it applied compared to my experiences with other rattle can paints. It laid down on the surface perfectly smooth and glossy. It actually looked like it had been applied by someone with good equipment and the knowledge and ability to do things proper. I do not fit that bill. So. Needless to say, I was impressed with Duplicolour. I know the hinge is a small part in comparison, but now I am starting to think, this stuff laid down so nice, I may just have a go at painting my hard saddle bags which are scratched up pretty good. (It rolled back into a chain link fence a few years ago). I just hope they produce a paint colour that matches our Pearl White. What has been other's experiences with Duplicolour, especially if you can compare it with other rattle can paints? If you used only the other rattle cans, how did that work out?
irishrrrrrrrOy pls And thanks for making this thread! I have also read quite a few good reviews about the DupliColour rattle-can paint. As far as I have understood they want you to of course prime the area so the paint sticks, then apply the paint. And after the paint has dried they suggest putting a clear coat of laque on top of that, right? It's really cool that Duplicolor is selling their products in the EU as well, because sometimes problems occur when it comes down to getting products "from acorss the pond" I still have to pry around on my paint-bubble and see how the tanks is looking underneath it, but I think I've come to the conclusion to just leave it as it is, maybe tinker a bit, but no big effort. And should I want to sell the Viffer due to some reasons (which I holefully won't, of course! ) I will look around for a used tank that fits the color (getting a used tank and installing it will probably save me ~100€ as to properly have the old tank repainted). I think I'll try to get a can of DupliColor as well and to put it on the areas concerned. ________ Anyhow, what I wanted to ask What was the ambient temperature you painted your tank, roughly? (Because around where I am it'll be mostly around freezing temps for the next few months. I don't know how the temps affect the rattle-can paint).
Fixed. Sorry about that. They do recommend clear but I did not do that. It were hinges for the tailgate of my truck that I painted as they were new and finished metal. But I did wipe the surfaces down with lacquer thinner first to clean them then I used a self etching primer before the paint. Instruction said not to paint below 60F My garage was sitting at about 45F so I stored the primer and paint and parts in the heated house over night. Then I threw a portable 200V heater on in the garage while I painted and until the primer and paint were dry to touch. Once I got to that point, I brought the painted parts into the hours to let cure for a couple days before I did the install.
You could also put them in the oven @40c for 1/2hr.. I did this for my brake calipers and it works great...
Just make sure you line the bottom of oven with foil & don't use her pans .... My wife wasn't that understanding about that... - but at least the dishwasher didn't get noticed.... cleans parts beautifully.....
I did consider this for sure. But I also considered the cost of a divorce settlement. 40C for 1/2 hour? Is that what is needed. I wondered how hot to bake the finish and for how long. Now I know. Thanks.
its not exact - basically I cover a shelf with foil after I've used the oven to cook food with & OVEN IS TURNED OFF, wait for it to get into that sort of range (use a thermometer), stick the bits in, & leave to cool while I eat diner... After clearing away food take a look.. Essentially, the solvents get cooked out & the paint is great.
Obviously if you are doing a tank, you want to clean all remnants of gasoline out. That would be a bang up job otherwise.
40 Centigrade isn't an issue with fuel...but then thats not a small part either. I've just painted a tank - in my NC24 thread but to finish it I'm going to buy an infrared heater for that - next March / April when it warms up) & put on 2 coats of lacquer.. My wife WOULD object to a tank in the oven...
Is there any odours from when you place your item in the oven during or afterwards. I suppose that would not be a good idea for hard bags would it.
40 c is the temp of a very hot day... why would you think that's not ok? It's more about the wife not getting too upset... If you are reprinting your hard bags then I'll assume that you are splitting them - covers from the base as that's what I did but they will get a repainted next year & definitely into the oven after.
When I had them painted by the pros last time around, they were not separated. They did a good job. My treatment of the finished product? Well that is another story. Otherwise we would not likely to be having this conversation. I was wanting to separate the pieces of the hard bags but was looking at the pins in the hinges. Looks like they are pressed into place. I have my own ideas how to remove them but not sure that could be the best answer. How did you remove the pins? Did they go back into place easily? Are the pins as secure as they were before you removed them? I could just go ahead and do this but I am a GMC man. Ford may have a better idea.
Isn't that always the reason - lol They are pressed into a blind hole. make it into a non-blind hole by using a 2mm (tiny) drill on the inside of the hinge end until you hit the hinge pin. Then drive out the hinge using the drill bit - (or very slim impact driver) Yep its the same size hole ! Yep. Well mine are - also put superglue on the outside edge of the pin. I'm happy to do a walkthrough on this with pictures on mine as I dropped it whilst full & smashed the corner. On Ebay I got another colour (black!) for £30 so i'm going to remove the 'lids', repaint, then reattach - this will be April / May.... Before R3 !
I think R3 as we know it is history. Reg as moved to Sacramento. Mind you, he still owns the house and renting it to one of his kids I think.
