Regulator/Rectifier Failure

I ended up with a UK sourced spare--cheaper and quicker than the US (to the US)--and the part was finned with a aluminium heat sink plate supplied. The computer fan mounted on top suffered from the heat so I went for a blower version just in front--a tight fit. I also used a LED charge monitor just to make sure --no more problems.

My PC800 was known for an inadequate stator and Electrex (UK firm) supply a beefed up version. On the VFR I switched out one of the headlights during the day and fitted LEDs in the rear to cut the current draw. Buy a BMW and get a 700W alternator!--I have !--you can then run what you like without fear of battery drain or generator system failure due to overload.

 

Does anyone know the new (improved?) part # Honda uses for the r/r for a '98 VFR 800? Also, I'm making a heat sink plate to fasten between the r/r and frame on the '98 vfr. Does the scoop in the plastic rear body cowling exhaust hot air from inside the bodywork, or admit air from the outside?

 

Gary, I had good luck with the Electrex unit on my '97, and I know they make a replacement for the next gen. Try their website- www.electrexusa.com - and cheaper to boot.
Dan

 

Chris, the website for "electrexusa.com" explains that this system simply shunts excess power to ground - so reducing consumption results in MORE heat (they use this kind of system because it is CHEAP!). Why wouldn't you want to run more - brighter - hotter anyway? Here in New York state, the four wheelers are comatose most of the time ("Excuse me, did I wake you while you were driving?!&quot. I tend to run the high beams all the time, it gets me noticed, and that's all that matters.
Dan

 

Here is another thing that can be done. I did it and have had no problems. It make electrical sense.

http://imlpld1.berkeley.edu/~bob/mc/vfr/vfrfix.html

 

I too unfornately had to push my bike home (long uphill)the other day after I stoped for gas and wouldn't start back. After reading all the postings I was sure that I had a bad RR. Here are what I've done so far. Recharged the battery, cleaned all charging system connections, installed a fan on RR. Bike is running fine past several days. The negative battery terminal had some corrosion and I'm hoping that was just what kept the battery from charging. One thing I thought odd was the battery had washers on the terminal bolts. I did toss them, that just create more resistance. I have never seen any battery terminals with washers before. I also found some electrex units available at www.denniskirk.com
I just hope this is all I have to do. Wish me luck.

 

Thanks for the great info. My '97 with 4k miles died once again today. Had to push it 1/2 mile to get to an important meeting. I was pushed to the point of dumping it to get a '04 VFR. (Well good excuse anyway). But It Look's like that won't solve my problem either. Oh yea, I am already running with the updated R/R. I am better off working through the fixes posted here. Thanks!

 

Well, as it turned out I had a bad RR after all. Picked up an old Rick's unit (mfg date shows 2001) for $119 at a local part shop. Seems to work fine. I put the fan back on. The difference between the bad one and the new was a diode check reading on DVM (with ignition off). Bad one read only one way about 1.3V and open the other way, new one read 1.3V one way, 3V the other. I know what to check from now on. Let's see how long this one will last.

 

I suspect that I'm having problems with my '95s R/R too.
The factory service manual's got me confused on how
to do the R/R test. Can you please explain to me how
you go about doing the diode check/test. Sounds like
you were using the voltmeter/multitester to do it with?

 

I should have been little more specific. If you have a DMM with diode check function, probe the output wires from back of the connector (disconnect it if you want to probe front) with ignition off. You have 2 red and 2 green (two of the same are tied), put the meter across red and green both ways. One way (low charge range) should read about 1.3V, the other (high charge range) about 3.4V. It is basically a bi-directional diode AC/DC converter. The regulator should flip flop the AC input coming from altenator depending on the battery status. If that works, turn the engine on, regulator output should be 14-14.8V at 5000RPM (same output at lower RPM indicates bad battery or cold battery at beginning of charging this case it will drop after few minutes). If not, you probably have a bad coil, but a service guy at my local dealer says coil is usually the last thing to go. Regulator won't work right with a bad coil. As most everyone mentioned, bad battery or bad connections will stress the regulator to cause the failure. Most cases including mine, stuck at low range (little charge) will keep engine running with good battery, high range will fry the battery possibly other components (wiring, connectors, hopefully fuses). Well, bothways shot, you're pushing it home.
Regarding to my last posting, Rick's electrical part is an universal part and it does not come with any connectors. You have to order them with contacts, but I soldered the wires with the old connectors on. I saved $70 over OEM, and $40 over Electrex. Plus Rick's had flat back side which transfer heat better to the chassis. Hey, I'm kind of cheap that way.

 

Does anyonolt metere know more specifics about this LED voltmeter from Radio Shack??? The folks at two different Radio Shack shops don't know what I'm talking about. I am new VFR owner (1999 800) The R/R quit within the first 1K miles. ?I love the bike but I'm not a happy camper.

 

WOW! Dis that read bad. I want to know specifics about ordering the LED volt meter to monitor battery voltage. Radio Shack can't seem to help me.

 

Hello, I have a 98 with the same R/R problem. Is there a definite fix for this problem? Did honda fix the R/R so when I buy a new one it will fix the problem? Does anyone have a part number for the new R/R? Thanks for the help.

 

HERE IS THE FIX THAT I CAME UP WITH. THIS THREAD IS LONG AS IT IS A LONG STANDING PROBLEM THAT HONDA HAS NO PLANS ON FIXING FOR OLDER VFRs. I HAVE A 1995 AND AFTER 2 REGULATORS I WENT TO MY ELECTRICAL TECHNICIAN WHO RIDES A GOLD WING. AFTER SOME DISCUSSION WE REALIZED THAT HONDA HAD ELEMINATED THE COOLING FINS ON NEWER BIKES (CAN YOU SAY MAKE IT CHEAPER, THE AMERICANS WON'T CARE).
I INSTALLED A REGULATOR FROM A GL1200 GOLDWING AND HAVE NOW RIDEN IT FOR 2 YEARS IN THE ARIZONA DESERT WITHOUT A FAILURE. I ALSO CUT SOME OF THE FAIRING DIRECTLY UNDER THE UNIT TO ALLOW SOME FRESH AIR TO GET TO IT--A FAN WOULD BE GOOD TOO.
I UNDERSTAND FROM A FRIEND WHO RIDES A BLACKBIRD HONDA THAT THEY UPGRADED THE REGULATOR ON THAT BIKE TO HAVE FINS AGAIN.
THE UPGRADE IS NOT THAT HARD, THE GOLDWING UNIT HAS AN EXTRA WIRE WHICH IS A EXTERNAL VOLTAGE SENSOR, JUST TIE THAT TO THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE BATTERY. THE MOUNTING STUD WILL ALSO HAVE TO BE REMOVED AND DRILLED AND TAPPED AS IT IS TOO SHORT FOR THE TALLER GOLDWING UNIT. I USED 2 LONGER BOLTS TO HOLD IT IN PLACE.
MY TECH TELLS ME THE REGULATOR HAS TO WASTE ANY ELECTRICITY NOT USED AND THEREFORE LOVES HIGHER WATTAGE LIGHT BULBS AS THEY CAN DISIPATE MORE OF THE EXCESS POWER THE ALTERNATOR PUTS OUT.
HOPE THIS HELPS THE COMMUNITY.

RELIABLE AT LAST

 

Well, here it is two seasons later and the R/R on my '98 is still going strong. I connected a digital voltmeter to the marker light circuit so I could keep an eye on the electrical system and it still reads a healthy 13.5 volts at idle. Maybe it's because I live in a colder climate or maybe it's just because I'm lucky... Either way, I can't complain. 8)


Jake Harsha

 

Yep ! I,ve replaced it all,cost me a fortune.So you know the story.Breakdown in new zealand on my 98 vfr,total loss of power.Managed to get home after charging battery all night .Replaced battery as it was original unit.No luck so forked out for a new model reg.rec after testing reg/rec and indications pointing to the damn thing and knowing if it was the alternator it was the cheaper option of the two-doh-blow me still no joy.Everything was done according to the manual, and so pulled the alternator after testing according to the electrex fault chart.Great website.The alternator was black and charred so ordered a new from electrex and it seems to be ok for the moment.I have my old reg/rec and think it might be ok butI havent tested it yet.I have the new model reg/rec fitted-it has larger cooling fins but I have fitted the cpu cooling fan just in case. Took it for a short ride with a multimeter fitted and seems ok but have to wait for the new exhaust to be fitted before I can take it for a proper ride.Till then I,m still on my transalp.So my advice is to use the electrex fault chart as it gives the output per phase of the alternator and my manual did,nt so I thought it was the reg/rec and when all the time it was the alternator.-good luck with any fault finding and hope you better luck than me.

 

My buddy finally got his first bike so i decided to give my vfr another chance. It has not been started in a year!. I quit rideing it because of the r/r issue. I have completely rebuilt my dirt bike but street bikes are a little foreign to me. I had the r/r replaced at the dealer and still had the same prolblems with the bike not holding a charge. Any way tonight i pulled of the stator cover and found oil in the case and covering the stator. I am thinking this is not normal and would not be good for the stator. Anybody here can help?

 

Alright here is my story.....
I have a 94 Honda VFR, that has about 42K on it. Me and my girlfriend went to go out for a ride to dinner one night. It was about 70 degrees out and the bike had been sitting long enough to cool down. Went out and drove about 1/2 mile and stopped to idle at a light. We smelled something funny, and then everything shut off. I try to start it, and wouldnt crack. No lights, no gauge lights, nothing. So there is no power to the whole bike what so ever. Checked the battery, fine, fully charged and everything. Checked all the fuses. I checked the R/R and it looks like this.

http://www.public.iastate.edu/~jpete24/pictures/DSC01064.JPG

What do you guys think? Is it common that this could be the R/R (if you dont notice there is a hole in the R/R and fluid is leaking out.) Let me know what you think, and maybe some suggestions on install on a new one. Thanks

 

Hi Jake
I've just posted my story of RR failure, seems to be common problem for pre 2000. The solution seems to be to get an up-rated version or keep it cool, is a popular fix. You can purchase a new RR for about 70 notes in UK. Mine did fail resulting in under charging the battery, which didn?t course any additional problems to the motorbike. It?s a tricky one, there?s an old saying ?if it isn?t broke then don?t try to fix it?. At most I would fix a cooling fan as suggested, keep you battery charged, keep earths clean and protected, and periodically test voltage across battery to ensure you have around 14.5 volts across the battery. Oh most of all enjoy your riding

Chris