Shell Rotella motor oil???!!??

:jaw: And I was just going to defend your honour and post you did not ride like that.

 

You know you cheap fuk would use a piece of rubbish to clean that fifthly ass

 

I Agree with Randy just nasty crap!

 

WGAS----


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Yeah. I can be a bit of a hooligan like that sometimes. Lolzzz

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Not to worry. When the Sears catalog is toast, I have a Neiman Marcus catalog at the ready.

 

Ooh, nice! Silky smooth pages with no bleed through!:tongue-new:

 

sears catalog is actually too good for youu

 

Bang for the buck is a job, not robo crap. Back o jagermaster

 

I have sent off Emails to both Amazon and WalMart for paper catalogs. Either should be good for at least a few months.

 

I have sent off Emails to both Amazon and WalMart for paper catalogs. Either should be good for at least a few months.

 

that's a good start

 

Can I ask you folks who liked or disliked the Rotella oil what they liked or disliked? Was it the smell? The color? Unless you opened the filter and found less or more metal in it, or sent the oil to a lab, wtf are you judging the oil on? The price? Genuinely curious here.

 

AS far as performance, I could not see or feel any difference. My decision was mostly based on price. Partially on convenience. I use the same oil on my bike, my diesel truck, and both my son's and wife's Honda Civics. So I only have one can of oil cluttering up my garage and not four opened partial cans. Next time I buy the oil, I will buy the 5 gallon can. Makes it even more simple and economic I think.

 

Personally I found that the bike runs and shifts very smoothly and the price is very good. You have to ask though, if there was no ranking to look at, would one even question the use of any of the oils that they put into their machine? Other than catastphic engine failure or otherwise poor performance, would anyone even need to question their choice?

Apart from my Duc, which up until the point I tried the Rotella in it, had always had Motul in the motor, as that's what was put in since I bought in new in 95. (I think I might have tried Mobil 1 once). It wasn't until I started using the Rotella in the VFRs did I try something else in the Duc. I was hoping that I could actually have one oil to stock and use on all 3 bikes. Unfortunately with the Rotella in the Duc, it just wasn't working! I'm sure there are other oils I could try but figured I'll stick with what I know works and has been used since I bought it new.

I can't remember where I read about the use of different oils, both in make up (Synthetic, mineral, etc.) and different viscosity values in which there were some adverse reactions with some engines. Some which caused leaks and weeping from the the engine cases. Something to do with the gasket material I guess. If memory serves me right, this was posted on a reputable sight but unless I can find it again, it'll have to be here say for now.

Even though most people have not had any issues with their machines, it is possible that some might have issues with certain oils, at least based on what was mentioned in the above paragraph.

 

For me, it's all about how it tastes. For the money, I found it to be one of the most flavorful and therefore a great value.

 

The oil and filter controversy ain't limited to this group of fast/slow guy for sure.

http://ericpetersautos.com/2012/04/13/toilet-paper-oil-filters/

Got one of these on my sleeper cage. It was on the car when I bought it from the distributor. 66 Mercedes 230. Tranny crapped out and we stuffed a small block Chevvie and a B&M hydro in the car. Kept the filter. Had the car since about 1972.. Big use for these filters is on horsehead pumps in Texas and an oil dome in Long Beach, CA on Signal Hill, PCH in the Huntington Beach area and Shells Taylor field in Ventura. The Merc is now on Rotella..

We should now be on a fill in the blank thing. "My oil is________than your oil" and I can prove it.

 

I agree. The method you posted may be popular in some places where long fingernails may not be the best thing to have.

 

Here is some motorcycle related info from Rat's blog on oil. I wrote him with some specific questions on oils, I'll post when he gets back to me. What he said about using Rotella T6 was not good though. fyi

John C. Boukis (@JohnCBoukis)
August 7, 2016 at 2:05 pm
“Who says Energy Conserving motor oil is forbidden in motorcycle applications?”

The saying above that reader John Jack provided is ubiquitous in motorcycle circles. You may google any motorcycle blog and you will find this advice repeated ad infinitum. After being told this repeatedly I read the actual API description of the Energy Conserving label. As you have iterated, it states that the oil saves fuel. This of course details nothing about the actual formulation. However, understand that many motorcyclists advise each other not to use Energy Conserving oils because they may harm wet clutches, but then tell each other that the next higher viscosity of the same label is safe. Of course such oil may have the identical ingredients as the EC version! This disparity was one item that motivated me to get your advice. I then read your response and thought, “Wet clutch warning? I have read everything that I can get my hands on but have never heard this before.

Now that you have more background on the common hearsay of the motorcycle crowd, you may better understand our ongoing confusion as we attempt to apply your advice and make good choices.

After your response I referred to the tech support of some of the oil companies. Given that Mobil One oils are high on the protection list, I asked if Mobil 1 can be used in wet clutches. Here is the reply:

“Actually, we make a pair of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oils specifically for motorcycles…
The major defining difference between our automobile oils and motorcycle oils is the reduced level of friction modifiers in the motorcycle oils, to allow full engagement of a wet clutch. While I have spoken with a few people who seem happy running an automobile oriented Mobil 1 in a wet clutch motorcycle, we do not recommend it.”

I asked Shell about these Pennzoil Ultra & Platinum oils that rank highly on your list:

5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM synthetic
5W30 Pennzoil Platinum, API SN synthetic
5W30 Pennzoil “Ultra” Platinum

Here is the response:

“Typically a wet clutch is looking for an engine oil with some zinc in it. Any API SN rated oil will have about 800 ppm of zinc in like the Pennzoil products you inquired. The Shell Rotella T Triple protection 15w-40 and 10w-30 are most commonly known as diesel engine oils. But these also carry and API SM gasoline rating and 1200 ppm of zinc. The Rotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic is a good choice at 1200ppm as well. Check your OEM requirements to see if these engine oils will work in your engine.”

As an aside, Rotella T6 is extremely popular among motorcyclists due to its low price, so I know that it is safe for the clutch as iterated. However, after reading everything you wrote about diesel oils, it would outright scare me to put this in my 12,000 RPM motorcycle that shows a water temp of 220°F+ in the city.

Wet clutch issues aside, for some of the highly ranked car oils, I have identified motorcyclists in the blogs who have used them. Many times they report that it takes more effort to shift the bike with such oil. It sounds like there is something else inherent in oils with the JASO-MA certifications that helps to smooth out performance in motorcycle transmissions.

What shall I think if I experience harder shifting in the motorcycle? If the feeling is acceptable to me, then I should not worry about transmission life? Does your testing correlate directly to protecting the meshing gears in a transmission? I think I know how you are going to respond, but there is a lot at stake here, so we must be explicit.

=============================

Hi John,

A little background information. I spent the first part of my Technical Career in the Motorcycle Industry, working for one of the major Motorcycle Companies. So, I’m very familiar with bikes, and have personally owned many Motorcycles over the years. However, I do not follow today’s Motorcycle Blogs/Forums, so that is why I was not aware of the “claims” that motorcycles should avoid using Energy Conserving motor oil.

The Internet can be a source for excellent reference information, and it can also be a source completely false worthless information. A perfect example of completely false worthless Internet information, is in Hot Rod and Race Car Forums where many people say they must use high zinc motor oil for sufficient wear protection. Problem is, that is ABSOLUTELY FALSE. Even so, it has been repeated a million times by people who simply do not know any better, until many just assume it is correct. However, repeating bad information a million times DOES NOT make it magically become true.

It would appear that we have the same situation in Motorcycle Blogs/Forums, regarding Energy Conserving motor oil. I imagine this got started by someone who just assumed that Energy Conserving motor oil had excessive amounts of friction reducers in it to make it Energy Conserving, without ever considering the viscosity factor. So, they thought it had to be too slippery for wet clutches in Motorcycles. Then along the way, they started saying that Energy Conserving motor oil also makes Motorcycle transmissions harder to shift. Then once those “claims” start spreading, they get repeated over, and over, and over again, until now you see what you see on Motorcycle Blogs.

“BUT”, they didn’t even understand what they were saying. Think about it, they “claim” this oil is too slippery and will make wet clutches slip, yet they also “claim” this extra slippery oil will make Motorcycle transmissions harder to shift. How could extra slippery oil, even if that were true, magically make a motorcycle transmission also harder to shift? Slippery for the clutch, but not slippery for the transmission, when they use the same oil? They can’t have it both ways at the same time. That makes no sense at all and is physically impossible. So, the whole “claim” is totally ridiculous, with no hard data to back it up.

Making assumptions like that, and then running with it, is how the high zinc myth got started. And once myths get ingrained in the public’s mind, they become much like Religion or Politics. Therefore, it can be very difficult or even impossible for technical facts to change peoples’ minds.

I have personally used both so-called Motorcycle oils and Automotive oils in motorcycles. Some of those were Energy Conserving motor oils, yet I never encountered any problem with clutches or shifting, while using those Automotive oils in bikes. I know a lot of Motorcycle riders, and I have never had anyone ever tell me that they had experienced a problem using Energy Conserving motor oil in a Motorcycle. So, until this whole deal about Energy Conserving motor oil in motorcycles can be confirmed/proven as a real problem, I will have to consider the whole thing a myth just like the high zinc deal is. Do not believe something is true on the Internet just because people keep repeating it. You should only believe actual proven facts.

Of course motor oil formulations are always changing and new motor oil lines come along from time to time. So, it would be impossible to make a blanket statement that all Energy Conserving motor oils are fine for Motorcycles, or that all Energy Conserving motor oils should be avoided for Motorcycles. That’s why I stated that the best tip is to look for a warning about using any given motor oil in wet clutch applications. For example, 5W30 Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 5 motor oil, comes from Australia and can be ordered in the U.S. from Summit Racing Equipment. Though not specifically listed as an Energy Conserving motor oil, it claims low friction for max power, and says for that reason, that it is not suitable for motorcycles with wet clutches. This is the type of warning I was talking about.

I can understand you contacting Motor Oil Tech Support to ask some questions. The problem is, I can tell you from knowing Corporate Phone Reps over the years, they don’t always provide correct information. Sometimes they are fairly new employee’s with little training and don’t really have the knowledge or experience to really know what they are saying. So, they give out wrong information without even knowing it. Other times they are told to push certain products, when given the opportunity. And of course different people think differently. Therefore, it is not unusual to call back and ask the same question, and get different answers from different Reps. So, you have to be careful what you take away from the answers you get.

The Mobil Rep tells you that he has spoken with people who are happy with Automotive Mobil 1 in wet clutch Motorcycles. Then he tells you they don’t recommend it, and that they offer Motorcycle oil. Hmmm, imagine that, he steers you toward one of their products that sell far less well than their Automotive oils. You can connect the dots on that yourself.

Then the Shell guy tells you a wet clutch wants high zinc levels, without understanding that the whole purpose of zinc is to help reduce friction and wear, which is just the opposite of the gripping conditions a wet clutch is looking for. He was either unaware of the facts, or he was deliberately providing wrong information, assuming you’d never know the difference. Then he directs you to one of their products, Shell Rotella T, which is a very poor performing motor oil that has absolutely no business being used in a High Performance gasoline engine. He sounds like a used Car Salesman or a Carnival Barker. So, you should think long and hard about believing a word he told you.

If you select a highly ranked Automotive oil to use in your Motorcycle, and you do not experience clutch slippage, which I don’t expect you will, then you don’t have to worry about the protection of your engine or transmission. Even if you “think” you perceive harder shifting, which I don’t expect you will, that may only be from the power of suggestion, because blogs have talked about it, and you still don’t have to worry. Highly ranked oils have shown excellent performance regarding wear protection, which comes from their film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance psi values, which all apply to Motorcycles as well as cars.

At the end of the day, use whatever motor oil you feel good about, so that you will be able to sleep at night. If you do end up selecting an Automotive motor oil, Energy Conserving or not, let me know how it worked out for you.

Take care,

540 RAT

 

Very cool but the last sentence is kind of what seems to be the case for everyone here...

And this sounds like something BB would have responded with!

Then he directs you to one of their products, Shell Rotella T, which is a very poor performing motor oil that has absolutely no business being used in a High Performance gasoline engine. He sounds like a used Car Salesman or a Carnival Barker.