Skip off idle

Hi Guys,
I have a box stock 06 VFR 800, that will skip 2-4 times when fully warm and starting off from a stop, I do not notice it any other time, bike runs strong on
acceleration and does not seem to skip when warming up to a normal temp. It seems to start after bike is fully warm, all emissions are still intact and connected, bike has new plugs and they are the correct ones.
Air cleaner good, no smoke or any nasty noises.

 

What exactly is a skip?

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A misfire on one or more cylinders, sorry a skip is car business lingo for a misfire.

 

Does it only happen while letting the clutch out?

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That is correct, just as you start to load the engine.

 

You sure it isn't drive train related? As in clutch chatter etc?

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not drive train,new chain,new sprockets , a definite misfire, you can hear it in the exhaust.

 

Perhaps a bad ignition coil.

 

The cheapest thing to try would be some new plugs.

 

He said it has new correct plugs.

Okay well what I meant about, "does it happen as you're letting out the clutch" is is the miss while you are feeding​ out the clutch or is it happening after the clutch is already fully engaged.

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You've got the 3 main issues about misfiring... 1.-No/incorrect fuel 2.-no/incorrect spark 3.-no/incorrect compression.
When was your last valve clearance check? Mileage? Electrical circuit checked? Injectors clean?
Could be anything, from electrical to mechanical... Your best bet is to find a qualified honda diagnostic garaje with electronic diagnostic tooling (i don't know if your model is already canbus, or you've got to use the pin table)
Anyway, not a job for a countryside garaje.
Good luck and keep us updated!

 

You said the bike is running strong so are you 100% sure you're not just hearing the normal (yet somewhat odd) sounding exhaust note our V4's produce? Hopefully that's all it is - it does sound like it skips a beat every now and then and I was a bit concerned when I noticed it on mine until I realized it was normal. See this thread if you haven't already: http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/53035-Our-V4-sound-explained

 

I'm thinking ign coil, I'm pull the shop manual today and check the spec's on the coils.I'm thinking that the previous owner not having the plugs tight(ie
loose enough to remove with out a ratchet wrench just the socket and extension) may have caused a overheating issue with one of the coils.

 

It seems that misfire was at exactly at 1400 rpm when letting clutch out,suspected fuel mapping since it was the same every time, purchased and installed Booster Plug, all problems gone,
much smoother all round.

 

What exactly is a Booster plug. I'm having a similar issue and thought it was normal.
Brian

 

A Booster Plug just fools the ECU into running rich by making the temperature reading from the IAT read around 20 degrees lower than the actual value (*). This enrichens the fuel/air mixture by a set percentage over the whole rev and throttle range. It's basically just a resistor, but with some added nonlinearity to follow the output of the IAT better.

Go for a Rapid Bike or a Power Commander instead, so you can change the fuel map both up and down as necessary.

(*) https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/cms-24.html

 

I will be ordering this, i have the snatchy low speed lower rpm lean characteristics that need corrected by a simply little system like BP.

I have googled it lije crazy and its not snake oil or anything like has been described but a very simple solution to getting arounf factory EPA mandated lean programming,.. and it does it while retaining most of the factory programming/ beautiful setup cant wait to order mine and see the low to mid rpm ride characteristics really improve.

The fuel mixture is only adjusted at low and mid rpms,.. WOT and near WOT the factory programming is fully running the show,.. thats why BP doesn't claim WOT hp increases~ and that isnt what the BP was designed or marketed for~

Do some extensive google and you tube research,.. folks are very happy once they install them on their bikes~ and report improvements precisely where the company claims to create them.

I'm ordering one/ not scared a bit,.. gotta get rid of that off throttle chop jerkiness/ rode today& this is my first fuel injected bike~ like the quick start no choke etc but Man~ the factory Epa mapping blows..

 

please just first check your cylinders are all synched...

 

At a glance i thought i knew what you meant?.. carbs synched,?? But its a 2006 i think i may have misunderstood,..

It runs great just the typical choppiness and grabbing of low speed on off throttle that neither my "Kanotuna" nor my beloved RF900RS2 had,.. (why did i ever sell the RF what a sublime "sleeper" to humiliate younglings with,.. what a bad ass bike,.. i even miss the RF's big fat ass brake light,.. what a machine,.. sigh..)

 

Technically the correct term is Throttle Body Synch for a Injection System - however the concept is EXACTLY the same as Carb synching - it is to insure that each cylinder delivers the same amount of air as the next one.

Do a search on here - you would be amazed how many bikes are NOT SYNCHED - especially fuel injected versions...
The bike can run fine BUT have issues.