Valve adjustment VF1000R photo

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by donald branscom, May 12, 2011.

  1. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    Since it was supposed to rain or threaten to rain the next couple of days I decided to to do my valve adjustment.
    I read the procedure for the stock motorcycle and it was worse than dong my chopper than the stock bike. Too bad it does not have hydraulic lifters like the Suzuki Madura or the Kawasaki 1500.
    [​IMG]

    The stock bike requires removing the fairings,radiators,coils,seat, tank, and other items!
    My chopper required removing the radiator, engine mount bolts, and shifting lever from the engine. Also two exhaust mount bolts,one on each side of the bike.

    When I built my frame I made the engine the same level as the bottom of the frame.
    I had it all sitting on a steel plate. so once I took the engine mount bolts loose I could move the engine around for clearance.
    [​IMG]
    You can see the steel plate between the frame and the jack.
    Yeah ..I see the jack could really use some cleaning too.

    The VF1000F has a clearence of.005 intake and exhaust, and the VF1000R is .006 intake and exhaust.
    My theory is that after 1984 the mechanics reported back to honda to change the specs from their personal experience.

    BTW I do not know the history of this engine other than it was supposed to have 20,000 miles on it. The cams looked just fine.
    The thickness gage was only slightly tight on one intake and one exhaust.
    It could have been left alone but since I was in there I gave it a little more play. The easy way is to loosen the nut, and look at the position of the screw slot and judge it that way. Then tighten the nut down. Check with thickness gages.

    I will put the radiator and fluid back in tomorrow.
    Oh...One more thing The book does not tell you this, but if you loosen all the spark plugs FIRST you can turn the engine over much easier.

    The bike below.
    [​IMG]
     

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