VFR800 10 Year Refresh Part Déux

Hi, lovely work..especially the brake de-link. Would like to know how you went about the small blue bolt/screw/nut arrangement for the top of the moving brake arm. The drilling looks very trick/race. You say the bike runs cooler, but how much? Isn't it designed to run at 80-84 deg C? Just thinking about the ECU and what it's looking for so as to fuel correctly. Great work and the photos with the illustration lines and the front caliper drilling guide is really useful.

 

The secondary master cylinder (SMC) replacement is simple. The actuator rod connected to the fork via a small yoke has an M8 thread & is retained by a metal washer plate & circlip. So when removing the parts, get an alloy M8 socket head bolt, slip on the washer plate followed a nylock nut, then another nylock nut back to front. Then put in the SMC & locate with the circlip. Screw small yoke on, adjust length to suit & lock with the second nut. Job done. I can sell you my light weight one if you want it.

As far as the bike running cooler, yes it used to run at 80-84C, after the last custom tune, that fell to around 75C after I added the alloy cooling pipes. I thought maybe the thermostat was sticking, but external checks indicated not. I've made some mods since then that have leaned the A/F a bit & now runs around 79-80C. Got some more mods planned for the winter, so will see where that takes it.

 

Thanks for the reply. I plan to de-link as the hoses are 15 years old now so think it prudent to get rid. Front as per yours. The rear not as engineered as yours. I saw someone here had removed all the plumbing for the CBS and had a short line made to join the two banjo bolts of the rear caliper. Plugging one and drilling internally as per your front caliper would look more elegant and I will investigate.

 

Interesting that all those mods only netted you 107 hp at the wheel. I have a stock 1998 with only a D&D pipe & I ran 106 hp at the wheels on a dyno earlier this year.....

 

Yeah well mine are well documented on a race outfits dyno that is known to be conservative. Your dyno mileage may vary. 12hp increase is good without opening the engine. That's 12.6%. I'd suspect either you have an amazing machine or more likely a cheap dyno single pull with a generous operator ! Never seen a 5th gen make more than 100rwhp with a slip on.

 

I thought stock 5th gens were 112 hp at the crank...?

 

Close, Honda claimed 110 at the crank. Practically every dyno run I've seen shows 95 rwhp give or take a HP.

 

Dyno runs can be manipulated fairly easy too.

http://www.pencilgeek.org/2009/09/exposing-dyno-cheaters-how-the.html

That article talks about companies that cheat for dyno results, but it also can show that depending on where/when you have your dyno run done your results can differ. Weather and altitude should be entered in every time. I believe there is also some "hacks" to make a dyno result show higher than true. 520 chain conversion, excessively oiling the chain while on the dyno, etc...

 

I believe the simplest way to de-link the back end is to join both of the rear calliper hoses together at the rear master cylinder banjo bolt. I presume the line that is currently connected to the PCV is long enough to get there, haven't tried this myself. You might end up with more leverage over the rear pistons from the foot pedal, but given the centre pistons would have been activated by the secondary master cylinder anyway under a typical "use the lot" stop I can't see that making much difference to control/tendency to lock.

 

Just wow.. Talk about dedication.. This is what the bike should be in the first place.

 

Latest PIC even better, added TBR full system + Rapid Bike racing fuel/ignition controller + additional intake mods.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzwd84m3atntohw/Photo 13-04-2015 17 34 55.jpg?dl=0

Latest dyno, with the fuelling a bit off & have since added a 500rpm over rev, so now will show a real 120whp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5rsb53n67nrf75m/image.jpg?dl=0

Enjoy

 

You had a Power Commander and just replaced it with Rapid Bike. Can you comment on the increased control and specific reasons for doing so?

 

The options were move from PC3 to either PC5 or RB Racing. VFRD had a group buy for the RBR, so I got a far better price with all the expansion options that the RBR supports but PC5 requires lots of expensive Adonis for.

Primarily I was after the ignition advance control & dual maps. But haven't now added a Mytuningbike O2 auto AFR setup, which loses the dual maps. This was because even on premium fuel I could not add much advance. I still need to play with the ignition setting some more, to see if there are any gains there.

I like the RBR's engine braking control & have fitted a quickshifter which is ace

So RBR won due to price & additional features not supplied with a standard PC5 which would have cost more !

YMMV