Coolant Replacement 5th Gen

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by KC-10 FE, May 24, 2009.

  1. KC-10 FE

    KC-10 FE New Member

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    This is my first attempt at a "How To" article. I'm not the best with a camera so bear with me. If I had someone else working with me, this would have probably been a better article. I completed this entire procedure with the bike on the center stand. I see no reason why you couldn't use the side stand.

    Level Of Skill/Difficulty = 3 out of 10
    Foul Language Level = Your Mother Would Roll Her Eyes
    Time = Set Aside 2 Hours

    Tools Required:
    Honda Maintenance Manual
    5 MM Allen Wrench
    1/4" Ratchet
    1/4" X 10 MM Socket
    1/4" x 10" Extension
    1/4" x 2" Extension
    Needle Nose Pliers
    Drain Pan
    2 X New Copper Crush Washers
    Your Choice Of Coolant
    Distilled Water (If You Want To Completely Flush The Cooling System)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Step 1:
    Remove The Right & Left Fairing Lowers
    You will need a 5mm allen wrench & a stubby phillips
    [​IMG]

    Step 2:
    Remove the Radiator Cap & Remove The Water Pump Drain Bolt.
    You will need a 10mm socket. As you can see, it is directly to the left of the shifter. Be careful, when I pulled the bolt, it shot coolant over 3 feet away.
    [​IMG]

    Step 3:
    Remove The Engine Block Coolant Drain Bolt
    You will need a 10mm socket with a universal joint & extension. This is by far the most difficult part of this process. The bolt is located directly above the oil filter. It is the only bolt that looks like it's out of place. Every other bolt in the vicinity are in pairs, left & right.
    [​IMG]

    Step 4:
    Remove The Overflow Bottle
    You will need a 10mm socket for the bolts & needle nose pliers for the hose. Clean & flush the bottle. I needed to scrub some accumulated filth out of mine.
    [​IMG]

    If You Are Using Regular Green Coolant, Go To Step 8.

    Step 5:
    Replace Both Bolts & Fill System With Distilled Water

    Step 6:
    Start Engine & Allow To Reach Operating Temperature

    (I flushed the system twice, just because I could)

    Step 7:
    Remove Water Pump Drain & Engine Drain Bolts Again

    Step 8:
    Replace Engine Drain & Water Pump Drain Bolts (remove & replace the copper crush washers)
    The manual does not specify a torque. I just tightened by feel & checked to make sure I had no leaks.

    Step 9:
    Fill The Coolant System
    I used Engine Ice since it's advertised to lower operating temps & is track approved. Green coolant is not track approved for anything over beginner. I used this funnel with a hose on the bottom. As long as you have steady aim, you could probably do this with no funnel.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Step 10:
    Start The Engine & Check For Leaks
    Allow the system to come up to normal temp, making sure the thermostat opens. The manual says to blip the throttle several times to remove air. If you see bubble in the overflow bottle, you got the air out.

    Step 11:
    Top Off Coolant In Overflow Bottle If Necessary

    Step 12:
    Replace Fairing Lowers

    Step 13:
    Ride Bike

    KC-10 FE out...
    :plane: :usa2:
     
  2. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    Looks pretty good to me. I probably should do the same thing to mine since I don't remember if I have ever done it. I'll put that on my ever-accumlating to-do list.
     
  3. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    do you think that the 6th gen would be the same?
     
  4. KC-10 FE

    KC-10 FE New Member

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    Pretty much exactly the same for the 6th Gen. I would bet the engine drain bolt & water pump drain are exactly the same.

    I will say this about the Engine ICE, it seems to work as advertised. I can't comment on recovering HP like they say it does, but the reduction in operating temperature seems to be legit. Before with the old green stray cat kool-aid, my bike would run between 210f - 225f, all day, every day. With the EI, it's hasn't topped 200f yet. Rain or shine, I'm teaching a AMC Sport Bike class tomorrow, I'll post up what temp the engine gets up to.

    KC-10 FE out...
    :plane: :usa2:
     
  5. Joey_Dude

    Joey_Dude Member

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    Nice, one thing to note is that it's better to have the bike on the side stand to allow more water to drain out.
     
  6. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    man i cant wait to do this to my bike... plus ive got a 178 degree fan switch... this is going to be very interesting to see what happens...
    ive just got to wait for my motads to come in and im going to heat wrap them...
    incase you havent guessed... its really f#$king hot down here already!
     
  7. soundmaster31

    soundmaster31 New Member

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    How much coolant did you end up using? Just curious as to the capacity and too lazy to look it up right now lol...
     
  8. KC-10 FE

    KC-10 FE New Member

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    The Honda Maintenance Manual (not owner's manual) says .95 gals. I used about .8. After the first real ride today, it went from the upper line on the overflow bottle to about 1" above the lower. I am letting the bike cool completely before I open the radiator cap to check.

    Out on the road, I couldn't get the temp over 170f. I was purposely leaving the bike in 2nd & revving around 7500-8500 to get the temp up. It wouldn't budge. When stopped waiting for lights, it wont top 180f. Engine Ice gets :thumbsup: from me.

    KC-10 FE out...
    :plane: :usa2:
     
  9. DANIMAL

    DANIMAL New Member

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    KC, Good write up.
    Do one on a Brake system flushing.
     
  10. soundmaster31

    soundmaster31 New Member

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    Nice... I think I'll switch to it for the summer. Definitely won't cut it in the winter though lol.
     
  11. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Nice job, KC

    MD
     
  12. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    I'm always wondering if its possible to keep the temps too cool? Mbe oil temps not warm enuff? Just a question for bouncing around......

    MD
     
  13. KC-10 FE

    KC-10 FE New Member

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    The next "How To" I have planned are sparkplugs & fuel filter. I got the plugs & the fuel filter will be here on Friday. The brakes? I'm not looking forward to that. The clutch is simple.

    The bottle lists protection as:
    Boil Over to 256f
    Freeze to -26f

    I've been to Fairbanks, AK in February. I think -26f is when they button their top buttons, pull down their caps a tad & complain how sissified city folk are. If it ever got to -26f in NJ, I think the people would simply cease all activity & possibly cry.

    Never really gave that any thought. The only real downfall I could see is the temp not getting high enough to evaporate any moisture in the oil. That's about it.

    KC-10 FE out...
    :plane: :usa2:
     
  14. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    I guess I'm too much a geek- seems like there is an oil temp range that it needs to reach for optimum lubrication. Dunno what that is off the top of my head, hope your hitting it. - Wonder if what an oil temp gauge set-up would look like on the 5th gen?

    MD
     
  15. KC-10 FE

    KC-10 FE New Member

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    I'm planning on beating the bike like it owes me money this weekend. I'll post what temp it gets up to after that. I also plan on letting it idle for about 20 minutes to see what temp it gets up to.

    KC-10 FE out...
    :plane: :usa2:
     
  16. KC-10 FE

    KC-10 FE New Member

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    In order to drain my fuel tank to make changing the fuel filter easier, I beat the crap out of my bike on Saturday. I took it on base & hit the AMC Sport Bike range, made repeated runs down my favorite twisty road & did a few completely illegal speed runs down an extremely low traffic density road that I like. After that, I hit the "Thunder On The River" bike rally in Burlington, NJ. On all of the open road riding, the temp never got above 180f. Even when running ultra illegal speeds in 4th gear, it never topped the 180f mark. When cruising down High Street in Burlington at a walking pace, it went up to a max of 207f. This is still much better than the old green stray cat kool aid. With that crap, my bike always was in the 210f & up range.

    On a side note, I am done with bike rally's. They are a collection of human stupidity at it's finest. This was a small one. I'd guess there was about 500 bikes there & about 2500 people. I actually had people insult me because I was ATGATT. That's great, a pinhead wearing a soupbowl with a chin strap helmet in a tank top is telling me I'm stupid. The "Best In Show" award goes to the moron who did a smoking burnout right on the main drag in front of about 300 people, several of whom were cops. The one cop goes up to the guy & screams at him to park the bike next to the police Suburban with a trailer attached & tells the guy he's walking home. They opened the trailer & there were already 2 bikes in it. I actually high-5'd the cop for this one. I forgot to ask how much the fine was & what they planned on citing him for. Why are people so freaking stupid? This will be the last bike rally I ever attend.

    KC-10 FE out...
    :plane: :usa2:
     
  17. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Member

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    Actually it is a lot better that the bike run around 180. The only reason why they run hot from the factory is it cleans up the emissions.

    Both my CBR and my VFR run too hot. I need to remedy that!
     
  18. 300shooter

    300shooter New Member

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    Yeah ,I agree on the rallies, the black and chrome crowd, especially the newly morphed biker wannabees, just don't get it when it comes to gear. My own dumbass brother was just chirpin off about how he tore off a two week old tattoo on his leg last week when he went down. hey , here's an idea for a replacement, how bout "shit for brains" right across your forehead...:thumbsup:
     
  19. hondajt

    hondajt New Member

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    wow. am doing this right now. It was nasty. Very dark green. However, Mine never squirted out, till both bolts were removed. I removed the waterpump bolt first, like you said, and only a drizzle came out, for about ten seconds, then it stopped.

    As soon as I began letting the other bolt out, they poured/shot fluid out.

    Is that odd?
     
  20. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Not odd at all. By removing the bottom bolt first, you created a vacuum. Its like when you hold your finger over the end of a straw and keep the liquid in there: it'll drip out slowly at first, but remove your finger, and it shoots out.
     
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