87 VFR700 Problems

Redkote, he said he had a professional (probably a radiator guy) do the work.
I had my K3 tank redkoted and it worked fine.

 

Yea, I just read that, I just might have to buy it. Thanks!

 

I am going to get that tank. No one have any answers about my turn signal problem? The arrows on the gauges don't light up either.

I have some pics though.

What is this wire? Where does it go?



Almost back together, waiting on the tank now.

 

I have the 1986 vfr700f, red, white, blue. The front turn signals & headlight all stay on all the time when you turn the ignition to on. Its for safety, to be seen.. The loose 3 hole wire end looks like it might go to your flasher. On my machine the flasher hangs from a rubber suspension attached to the fairing mount. Just above where the turn signal wires snap together. When you select left or right turn the flasher should make a clicking noise. The flasher is a black box about 3/4" tall. It is on the left side of my cycle. You might look at the parts diagram on bikebandit for your year to see what belongs where that loose wire end is.

 

You mean the flsher on the handle bar? I know where/what that is. I coudln't find that wire on bike bandit though. I'll look again tonight. I can't find anything though.

 

Go to Bikebandit.com then click honda oem parts, then
1987
vfr700
vfr700 interceptor F2
wire harness

item 17 is called relay. I think its the blinker. Look at the wire going into it. Is it like yours? Looks like the relay is on the left side. Is it possible your wire is merely routed to the wrong side by previous owner?

 

Final thought. Looks like you shot the photo from the left side of the cycle looking forward, which would make the wire in the correct place. flasher or relay should be attached to the fairing stay. wire end plugs in from the bottom.

 

So there should be a relay box actually attached to the fairing? Yes it's on the left side of the bike. Thanks! I didn't see that before, I don't think it's there though.

 

Yes, that looks like it but I can't be 100% positive because I'm not sure what all the other wires are for in that picture.

 

Oh and I won that tank!

 

The relay is held to the fairing stay (the tubular frame like device that hooks the fairing to the cycle) by a piece of rubber. The plug in connectors are usually designed to only fit its mating part. In other words not pluginable to the wrong part.
I will check my emails tomorrow. Need to read my service manual again tonight in an attempt not to mislead you. I can send photos also. Great on your tank! Sounds like you will be riding in no time. I really enjoy riding mine, and love the unique sound.

 

Yea, I can't wait to ride it. Had the carbs cleaned, and it was running at his place, but now that it's home, I can't get it to start, it tries, but dies after a second. Could this be due to not having the gas tank, fuel pump, and air filter in place? I just have fuel running to the carbs.

But anyway.

Went back out and checked, can't find a relay anywhere for it. Pictures would be great, thanks!

 

This?

HONDA VFR700 INTERCEPTOR TURN SIGNAL RELAY *FREE SHIP*: eBay Motors (item 120412667275 end time Jun-21-10 11:33:23 PDT)

 

That looks like it. It may be available from honda for aprox $60. I had to buy the rubber suspension (thing that mounts it) for about $8 but used rubber bands for a while. The fuel line goes from the fuel pump up to a connector that has more lines attached to it that feed the carbs. I made sure the the one line from the fuel pump up to the connector was full of gas by moving the clip down and taking the one line loose then using a funnel to fill it with gas. I was careful not to pull the lines loose that go to the carbs. Once filled I put it back & put the clamp (clip) back where it was. Once I knew I had fuel supply from the pump to the carbs, then I put a line to the intake side of the fuel pump with fuel in it, somewhat elevated so any air bubbles would move up and out in the tube. If your pump works, & from some weeks back I think you decided it was, then it should start, with the choke lever on your left handlebar pushed down (full choke).

I think the fuel pump needs to be on the bike & electrically connected. The tank & filter need not be on the bike for purposes of getting it running.

Its very important to not disturb the lines that run to the carbs from the junction.

Regarding your tank purchase you might ask the seller if the fuel reserve sensor comes with the tank. It mounts on the bottom and goes up in the tank . Has an O ring. You must have this to get the tank up and running. Also there is a tank protector for the bottom of the tank to protect it from engine heat. Looks like heavy duty tin foil form fit to the bottom of the tank. It won't stop you from getting it going, but sometime in the future you will want to find one. These items may come with the tank. Telling you this stuff now because it takes time to run items down, which pushes ride time off further. Quicker you know the quicker you ride.

 

Yeah, if you are missing the flasher relay you'll need that to run your flashers.

It should be attached by suspension rubber to the left side of the Fairing stay.

 

Ok, I'm going to get that relay asap. I also need a front tire and brake pads. But that comes later.

I took it out for a spin today. I think there was/is air in the fuel lines, not allowing a full flow of fuel to reach the carbs. I got it fired up and running on all cylinders.

Some problems though.

Speedometer doesn't work, does it use an electrical connection or some sort of cable? I have a picture of two wires by the oil cooler that aren't connected to anything. Idk where they go.



Sometimes the rpms would bog down low, most of the time they would come back up and be fine, other times it would die. Then later, they seemed to go up higher, then drop down as well, without the throttle or choke. This is at idle.

If I put the top of the airbox on, it would die, not tightened, no air filter, just sitting there.

And last, there seems to be a noise coming from the chain area, it's tight though. It makes like a clunking noise, more as my speed increases. It does it whether I'm coasting or on the throttle.

Pics.





My temporary gas tank until the new one arrives.

 

The chain should have some slack in it, not "tight". Posting the color of the wires will help determine what they're for.

 

Note: I am using the service manual for the 1986 VFR700f (r,w,b) ,1986 vfr700f2 (white scheme). I believe yours is the 1987 vfr700f2 (blue scheme). I seem to remember there were changes to the 87 in ignition & maybe other stuff. So sooner or later I will probably give you something incorrect. We need to remember this.

The wiring diagram for 86 vfr700f does not show the two wires from your post. The 1986 vfr700f2 does. They appear to be not in use. One is Green, the other Brown. Since yours is 87f2 lets assume those are unused wires for now.

All the vfr's covered in my manual have a speedometer cable going from between the left hub and left front fork up to the instrument. Speaking from experience now I bought it from honda, about 27$. I broke the original because I did not realize its attached at the bottom end with a screw thru plastic. TLC needed when installing. Also the routing is important. I will pic you the routing diagram later, but again for the 86f2.

Regarding the inconsistent idle thing, I had what sounds like the same thing. It was the carb boots, manual calls them carb isolators. They are the rubber tubes that mount the carbs to the heads. If I were doing another bike I would buy all new boots (like $20 ea) first thing. They get hard with age & noncompliant with what you want them to do. Insufferable. Anyway I found the clamps need be as tight as you can. The clamp is designed to meet itself when its tight. Not like a hose clamp that just keeps going. If you repairman put them on right, carb side to carb, then checking tightness might solve it. The manual shows a specific way to mount those clamps, probably to make them accessible to a screwdriver.

Another possibility is junk in the gas,but we know your fuel source is clean. I assume the fuel pump got flushed out back when you started this project. Looks like you got it temporarily mounted on the cycle. I had to buy the rubber mount for the fuel pump from honda. I also got a plastic fuel filter from honda dealer, commonly used on goldwing , for $7. The orderable vfr one is like $17.

Regarding the rear noise. You might look the mufflers over for something loose. I bought a center stand & installed it . Helped immensely.Until I got that I was hanging one end or the other from the garage door track mount, because any under motor jacking looked like a recipe for damage. From your photo i could not see a center stand, so maybe someone could help you tilt it up on the side side and balance it there, while you turn the rear wheel and inspect.

Regarding turn signals. Forgot to mention this. Mine were doing really weird stuff, made no sense whatsoever. Turned out to be low battery When you get your flasher installed, be sure you have a good charge on your battery. Hopefully that will solve it.

Regarding your tank, If you look at the pic I sent you will see a crown nut & washer at the front, 2 rubber cushions ( one on each side to separate it from the frame, & a rubber pad with bushing & bolt at the back tank mount.I got all this stuff from honda. .Not cheap, but glad they had it. I don't know what all you have already, so i am trying to make you aware of possible future stumbling blocks.

 

Thanks guys!

The chain does have some slack in it now, it seemed to have loosened up from my riding today, but the noise is still there. Like you said, I need to jack the rear up and turn the wheel over, listening for the noise.

A picture of the cable would be nice, I did have the cluster out, but I don't remember a cable, maybe I didn't put it back in or something of the sort.

And yes, I'm pretty sure those boots are pretty worn out, but now, the bike is idling better, it doesn't die with the airbox on and the choke takes it right up to 3000+ -- rpms nicely.

Hopefully those wires do go to nothing.

I will keep you posted on what happens.

 

Thats an oring chain. not cheap. Pressure sprayer a no no. Let me look it up, I think kerosene is the recommended cleaner, also theres no master link if its the original chain. Might be easiest to clean in place. Get back to you tomorrow, sack time. theres also a certain wt of lube not just any old chain lube. more later.