First time chain / sprockets replacement - help please

After reading the fine tutorial (thanks Dudealicious) and other threads about replacing chain & sprockets, I decided to do it myself on my Gen 4 VFR. Even the manual makes it look easy. But I find myself stumped already. I can't seem to get the front sprocket cover off.

I removed all the screws as per manual: 2 for speedo; 2 for sprocket cover; 2 of 3 for clutch mechanism (even tried 3rd as well just in case). Nothing else appears to be connecting the cover. But after pulling, wiggling, jiggling, etc the cover won't break free. Am I missing something or do I just need to put more muscle into it?

Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks!

 

OK, I got it. Just wasn't being manly enough with the sprocket cover. Since it was my first time, I was being a little cautious.

 

Better safe than sorry! :kaboom:


I may do the same for my 87, let me know how it goes!


:thumbsup:

 

Will do. Awaiting parts now; should be in middle of the week. Wanted to get a start taking things apart & cleaning. You wouldn't BELIEVE how much oily crap was gunked up inside the front sprocket cover.

BTW, the problem I initially had was that the sprocket cover didn't want to break free from (1) the gasket in top left corner (visible once you remove the cover) and (2) the long metal sleeve that the cover slides over. It's been years since the sprocket cover was removed. Easy process; just needed a little encouragement to break free once bolts were removed.

 

Once I removed the front sprocket cover, I saw that part of the problem in removing the cover was the gasket to the top left of the sprocket - looks green in the attached picture. The gasket stuck bad and was destroyed in removing the sprocket cover. Can anyone enlighten me as to the need for that gasket? It doesn't hold in any fluids. It doesn't keep out road grime. Does it better mate the two surfaces together?

Since Honda went to the trouble of creating / installing that gasket, I assume it's needed. I haven't contacted my local shop for replacement yet. Hopefully it's available...

 

Gasket is there mostly to prevent the flying goo getting outside the cover. nothing that cant be replaced with a layer of black silicon sealer.

TG

 

Excellent! That's what I was hoping. Especially since I discovered the local shop can't get the gasket for a few days. Thanks for the info!

 

+1
A new chain will have a lot of flying goo to begin with... Is either throw the gasket on when you can get it, or use some Honda Liquid Gasket as mentioned by TG.

 

Success! My first chain & sprocket replacement is behind me. After an initial glitch (front sprocket cover stuck) all went well. I didn't take pictures since Dudealicious recently did that (thanks again, Dude!).

I probably spent about 3 hours total on the job. At least half that was time spent cleaning. I couldn't BELIEVE how much grimy crap there was under the front sprocket cover. After removing the plastic chain guard and rear sprocket, I also cleaned everything I could back there as well. That's probably the best part about doing this job myself (besides saving a couple hundred bucks...): I'm sure the shop would have just slapped the new components in place after doing a cursory swipe-out of the oily poo by the front sprocket instead of spending the time to clean everything while the driveline guts were open.

Using the chain breaker / rivet maker was a little hairy at first. First timer jitters again; didn't want to break anything so went rather slow. The chain 'breaking' went quite smoothly. After checking a couple time to ensure I had the tool lined up properly, I just cranked on the tool's pusher bolt with a 3/8" drive socket wrench and 14mm socket. Popped the old pin right out. (First timers - pick a link, any link; doesn't matter which one.)

Putting the new master link together took a little longer. The front 'press plate' on the rivet tool kept trying to shift a little to the side. Eventually I just sloooowly cranked on it and it lined itself up as the pins started coming through the holes in the press plate. Flaring the pins was also a little hairy since it's a safety critical procedure (the 'flare' you put on the pin ends hold the master link side plate in place) and I didn't have a micrometer with which to measure the amount of flare. The flare is so small as to not really be discernable to the eye (at least not mine). But knowing that each turn of the rivet tool bolt pushed out the 'flaring pin' exactly 1mm, I was reasonably sure that I had enough flare to ensure the master link side plate would hold. Just in case, at the completion of this job I took a slow, then progressively more aggressive ride around the neighborhood to make sure the chain seemed happy and secure.

After following the recent thread about leaving or cleaning the new chain lube (I understand it's a wax rather than a grease), I decided to simply wipe down the new chain prior to installation. Still plenty of wax / lubricant on the new chain after a good rubdown.

Prior to replacing the front sprocket cover, I used some gasket maker to replace the green paper gasket (see picture in earlier posting) that disintegrated upon removing the cover. Utility of that gasket is still suspect in my mind. In theory it keeps some of the grime from flinging outside the sprocket cover. Based on what I found, I question whether mine was doing any good. But since Honda went to the trouble of installing one in the first place, so did I. I went with standard gasket maker goo after learning that the Honda dealer would charge me about $10 (plus shipping) for the stock paper gasket and it would take a week to get it.

So at the end of the day, my assessment is that with a basic set of tools and modest ability to use them, together with one special tool - chain breaker / rivet maker - anyone can do a chain / sprocket replacement. Saves you a bundle over letting your local shop do it, gives you the opportunity to do some major cleaning, and lets you learn more about your bike. Altogether a worthwhile project. Glad I did it. My thanks to others who posted related threads.

Lessons learned for next time:
- Loosen front sprocket bolt with old chain still on, bike on sidestand
- Ensure front sprocket bolt is properly tightened BEFORE putting sprocket cover back on... Doh!
- Any link is as good as another to break apart the old chain
- If possible, have a micrometer handy to ensure your new master link pins are flared properly (if nothing else, provides peace of mind that your chain won't fly apart when you least expect it)

 

great info, thanks for the update and your thorough description! enjoy the ride!

 

The flare should be discernible to your naked eye. No measuring tool necessary, the master link should have a small mushroom on the top.

Take it from someone who has lost a master-link in the past, when hauling ass at 70+ mph and you loose a chain it takes out at a minimum all the sprocket covers and chain guards. I also lost a chunk out of my rear fairing and was lucky it didn't hit my leg.

I have a friend named Dave who did a pretty good write-up on chain replacement, pictures and all. Here's the article, along with a link to the master link photo.
Canyon Chasers Motorcycle Sport Touring - Motorcycle Chain Replacement

 

Thanks for the 'flare' info! I'll take a closer look and see if I really am done or if I need to crank it down a little more.

Excellent write-up by your friend. Wish I had seen that one earlier.

 

Actually you should grind the pin off when you are removing the link to put a master link in.
Trying to punch it with the breaker could potentially punch shear off more of the plate than you would want it to.

 

I had read about doing it that way as well. Ultimately I decided to just follow the instructions that came with my breaker tool. But since I'm a newbie at this, I appreciate the advice - always open to better ways to get the job done.

 

...................................

ALWAYS check that the sideplate on the masterlink is not so tight that it causes binding on the 2 adjacent links.........

 

+1. you new masterlink should come with a spacer to keep you from binding the links