2001 VFR Rear brake seizing

hello all,

Recently I ordered some adjustable pegs for my vfr (360 degree adjustablity)
I moved my shifter to where I wanted it, then I proceed to take my rear brake pedal down as much as possible.
Since I have done this, the rear brake seizes up after about 8-10 km.
It doesn't matter if I'm actually using the rear brake, it simply stops the bike dead.

The only way to release the pressure is to pull the cotter pin that holds the pin brake rod (#20 on attached bikebandit.com file)
2001 Honda Interceptor 800 VFR800FI Parts, 2001 Honda Interceptor 800 VFR800FI OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

Is there a stock height where the plunger rod should sit (#16)
I'm guessing that the built up brake fluid is not able to return to the reservoir, instead putting pressure on the brake.

thanks,

Greg

 

I hear crickets!

Ok, let's try this,
can someone be kind enough to go to their garage, and measure the threaded part of the rod that the pin, and brake pedal are attached to?

I need a measurment to set mine back to stock lenght.

thanks,

greg

 

The stock height is 2.66 inches or 67.5mm from the lower bolt to the pin.


















Hope that helps.

 

perfect, exactly what I need.

thank you.

 

No problem Greg, glad I could help.

Josh

 

crap!

I just realized you're in Hollister.
Just rode through there in april. California 2013 – thetenerist

where did you find that picture of the rear master?
I'm trying to figure out where the actual threaded part of the plunger needs to sit.
I'm allmost turned off by the fact that the rear brake keeps acting up (my fault) so I migrate to my other bikes meantime

 

The picture of the rear master is from the Honda service manual. Section-15 Page-28.
The total length of the threaded rod (from the bottom of the rubber boot down) on mine is just a touch over 7/8 of an inch.
I hope that's what you were asking, if not let me know and I will re-measure.


Wow, what an epic ride with great pics. Sounds like it was a blast. I really enjoyed reading that. Hwy 25 and hwy 198 are some of my favorite roads, and right in my backyard. Planning a trip to B.C. myself next year.

 

Most sticking, dragging brakes are because the tiny little fluid return hole in the master cylinder has blocked, clear that and usuall fixes the problem

 

I tore the master cylinder apart.
Turns out that the top snap ring that holds the threaded rod (domed at the top) to the err....plunger, came off.
Put it back in place, cleaned the whole thing in kerose.

test drive tomorrow

 

Greg, after washing the mastercylinder in kerosene I hope you flushed it with white spirits like metho otherwise you will be fitting new rubbers in the master cylinder shortly

 

Am I missing something here?

I thought that kerosene was petroleum based, and safe on most rubber items.
I've used it for year, with no ill effect.

I'm always willing to learn something new,

Greg

 

+1 for kerosine usage as the degreaser/cleaner.
I use it as well. I would clean it afterwards with brake cleaner, jut to get kerosine film off, but it is not mandatory in my view.

Acetone, MEK and a like are bad for seals, but even then you need to have seals in contact with them for a few minutes to damage them.

 

So howd the test ride go?

 

Agreed. I didn't flush it off, but I did wipe it clean, and let dry.
took the bike on a nice long ride, no issues, problem solved.

NOw I don't have to look forward to the morning commute, when my rear brake decides to seize up at 120 kmh.

thanks for the help guys.

 

I'm glad you figured that out. That must not have been fun at 120kmh. Enjoy the riding season

Josh

 

no not at all.
will do. PM when you're heading north.