Handlebar swap

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by ESAK HADLEY, Mar 3, 2019.

  1. ESAK HADLEY

    ESAK HADLEY New Member

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    For those wanting to change their handlebars on a VFR, please take a few minutes and read this. It might help.

    I bought a new handlebar setup for my VFR, not a clip-on setup like most aftermarket companies sell. This is actual 7/8” handlebars that use the same mounting location as the OEM clip-ons. Before anything else, I took some measurements and gathered tools.

    When done, the new setup measured about 2.5” up and 2” back over the OEM clip-ons, which matches the manufacturers’ claims (below). This puts less weight/stress on the wrists, as the riding position is more upright. When using proper riding technique – tight core and squeeze with your knees – this new riding position also slightly lessens stress on the lower back, as well. All of this together equals a more pleasurable riding experience (according to my body, so far).

    The same OEM hoses and cables are used – nothing changes there. (see below or go to their website and read it there)

    For proper lever/master cylinder placement after installation, small tabs on bottom of master cylinders must be cut off (where it contacts top of fork leg). I used my Dremel with a cutting disc, and it worked great."Proper placement" is what each rider prefers, so rotate according to your desire.

    New bar ends will be needed with this new setup, if desired. The OEM bar end weights will not work. I do not know what size you need, because I have not bought anything yet!! 13mm maybe?! To play it safe, buy something that offers two different size inserts. I found some on www.CycleGear.com but have not bought any yet. The small amount of vibration has not been an issue for me.

    If you have all the tools, the job takes about one hour.

    Tools needed – Phillips screwdriver; 8mm & 12mm socket (plus ratchet); long, thin flat screwdriver (or similar tool – to slide under & remove grips); Allen wrench (to remove bar ends); H6 bit drive & driver (to install new handlebars); clean shop towels


    Manufacturer website & quote

    https://japan.webike.net/

    “It is possible to mount STD Cable/Hose -- Handlebar Switch Hole Drilled -- Position 60mm Up/50mm Back“

    Item I purchased for my 2000 VFR 5th Gen:

    https://japan.webike.net/products/2076546.html


    There are 6th & 8th Gen products available.

    Some other nice options and/or advantages of 7/8” handlebars over OEM clip-ons:

    -Different handlebars can be used later, if desired. Different hoses/cables typically needed for these other bars (usually sold as a kit). Check the website link above for some options.

    -GoPro-style action cameras have accessory mounts for 7/8” handlebars (mine does)

    -Open handlebar areas allow for other accessories to be mounted, as desired (phone, GPS, etc)


    For me, this product was pretty easy to install and wonderful to use. My shakedown run was 2hrs long. No stops, 40 degrees, and windy the whole time. It was great!!

    **Several rides later… I am loving the riding position more and more as I go. Two thumbs up!!


    Total cost – less than $200

    Total time – less than one hour

    Non-stop grin while riding– priceless



    Installation details included below. I hope this helps some.
    Refer to pictures for reference on positioning of parts/pieces.


    REMOVAL

    # 1 – Prepare work area, gather all tools, put bike on center stand.

    # 2 – Remove bar ends and grips.

    # 3 – Remove switches & levers.

    # 4 – Remove retaining clip from groove at top of fork leg.

    # 5 – Loosen 12mm pinch bolt on each OEM clip-on, then remove clip-on. Repeat for other side.


    REPLACEMENT – (** Do not tighten all the way until everything is together. **)

    #1 – Install both fork leg mounting plates. Slide down to triple tree clamp & position correctly.

    #2 – Install throttle tube to handlebars before mounting to bike. Using top clamps & bolts, mount bars to bike.

    #3 – Install switches, levers, retaining clips, grips, & bar ends.

    #4 – Tighten everything. Tighten it again.

    #5 – Go ride.
     
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  2. ESAK HADLEY

    ESAK HADLEY New Member

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    Here are the pictures...
     

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  3. ESAK HADLEY

    ESAK HADLEY New Member

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    How could I forget THIS one?! What a dolt...
     

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  4. Rsparky

    Rsparky New Member

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    I've literally just been thinking about this since this week! Guess it's a sign!
     
  5. Cycleman1

    Cycleman1 New Member

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    I did the same install last fall. They also make a police bike kit for the VFR that raises the bars even more and comes with new throttle cables etc. If you do go the wetbike japan route, make sure you get the bar end weights that match their bars. The stock VFR ones won't work with these bars.

    As you can see from the pictures the new handlebar isn't as long as a normal bar and doesn't really stick out much further than the stock clip ons. They clear the fairing with no problem, but do watch that the hydraulic cables don't hit the upper tree.

    Cost wise a bit cheaper than some other options out there.
     
  6. DustinRuoff

    DustinRuoff New Member

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    Awesome! Just picked up a 1998 in great shape with OEM clipons.. a week later I'm sold on needing to upgrade the bars.. Of course I'm coming from an 82 GL500i Silverwing, so upright and wider/swept back bars were what I'm used to. I love how these look! Price is right and OEM cables work?? SOLD! I'll let you know how it goes!
     
  7. DustinRuoff

    DustinRuoff New Member

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    Just ordered the bars linked by the OP and now am off on the quest to get bar ends!! Suggestions on what fits would be great! My wrists thank you in advance..
     
  8. Cycleman1

    Cycleman1 New Member

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    If you go the the Japan Wetbike site you can find the bar ends for these bars. As I said earlier the stock VFR end weights won't work.

    These bars actually move the bar back about 2 " and there is very little difference in overall height, maybe 1/2" or less. You can turn the bars up and down to play with these two measurements. When I put the stock clip ons up beside the new bars, that's the difference I see. The stock clip ons are already about 2" above the top of the upper tree.

    You could push the fork tubes down in the trees which would have the effect of raising the bars because you raised the front end, but I wouldn't recommend that as it would really affect the front end geometry. You leave the fork tubes in their stock position when installing these bars. There will be a gap between the fork mount of the new bars and the upper tree.

    If somebody has instructions indicating that you should move the forks in the trees I would like to hear and see it.
     
  9. DustinRuoff

    DustinRuoff New Member

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    Cool thanks! Yeah I wound up ordering those as well - bummer I didn't add them to the original order as I now paid to beefy shipping fees, but whatever.. not concerned. :) I was expecting the height to increase more. I don't mind testing with these bars for a while then getting taller bars in the future if needed. My pain with the OEM is the angle of my wrists. My back is fine.. Who knows, it's worth the shot!! Thanks for your insight!
     
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