Project VF500F2

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by shields17, Jan 28, 2020.

  1. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Looks like it’s good stuff, can’t buy it in the U.K.
    It’s sure got a few warnings on the can, been searching the inter web for a solution to faded switches

    My left hand one is really rough the right hand one, not so much


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Good ol Petroleum Jelly works pretty good. Let soak, repeat as needed.
     
  3. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    Thanks all! As Waylander says it doesn't look like the honey goo is available here sadly, but it's positive to hear there are ways to revive them a bit. I've got some Petroleum Jelly on them now so will let that soak overnight and see how we get on...
     
  4. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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  5. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    ^^^ that shit's for rubber, not plastic.
     
  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    SM, the plastic is so porous, anything that "rejuvenates" will absorb and restore the look. Just like Straycat's HoneyGoo suggestion. A product made for rubber might actually be the best application in this case.
     
  7. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    But speaking of plastic restorers, this shit is simply magic on normal plastic. I couldn't believe it.
    My ST1100 has a ton of plastic and this stuff transformed it.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    If it work it works, used it lots on the rubber and plastic bits of the Porsche

    Can’t imagine that petroleum jelly is much use, and lots suggest it’s use

    Petroleum products kill rubber


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2020
  9. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    I'm getting some good results after just a few soaks of petroleum jelly. It's not a miracle fix but it's bringing the black back enough that it'll probably save me going the replacement route.
     
  10. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Believe it or not, cherry dash shine has a lot of plasticisers in it, that stuff soaks in too

    Did some small dash parts in it as you need to seal it in a bag for a day or two


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  11. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    More progress today, after reading all the recent advice on fitting carbs I decided to tackle it... I ordered new boots as I thought it sensible to replace them whilst they're still easy to get. I had to try a couple of different methods but eventually got there by putting the boots on the engine, lining up the carbs into their rough position and then pressing down hard.... I had forgotten how little space there is to play with. I certainly don't envy the guys who've recently had to repeatedly have the carbs on and off - fingers crossed I can avoid that! You can also see in the picture how well the petroleum jelly worked on the switchgear.

    [​IMG]

    I got stumped by the differences in these earlier 32mm carbs vs the originals for a little bit this evening. I was comparing the bike side by side to my Dad's '86 with original 30mm carbs to work out the correct fuel/breather line routing and couldn't work out why my fuel lines were so long in comparison. Having done quite a bit of reading on some old threads on here I think I've solved it... Am I right in saying the earlier 32mm carbs have 2 breather tubes that run out of the back of the banks and only one fuel entry on the left that feeds all 4 carbs? Compared to the '86 30mm which has 2 fuel feeds and only the 1 central breather?
     
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  12. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Looking good!

    You are correct. BUT, I've got a set of 32mm carbs that the vents go straight up and vent to the plenum. Without digging into carb #s, I'm gonna assume these are 1984. Then 85 they vent to atmosphere back (two). Then 86, carb vents linked by tube, with one exit to the rear.

    I forgot about the differences in 32mm.

    20201114_150933[1].jpg
    20201114_150950[1].jpg
    20201114_151003[1].jpg
     
  13. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    Great, thanks for confirming that!

    I still find it crazy how many changes they made to the 500s despite such a short production span, it definitely makes it a bit tricky working out exactly what you've got.
     
  14. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    A range of new hoses delivered today, all of the original rubber was pretty badly cracked and deteriorated. Trying the squeeze the breather collector box under the rear mudguard was a bit of a challenge, probably not helped by having all the hoses attached. The new hoses I ordered are very thick compared to the original parts and stretching them over the end of the breather box was enough of a challenge with it off the bike so I didn't fancy trying with the box already in place. I got there eventually and everything is now routed nicely.

    [​IMG]

    I've also started going through the electrics trying to verify everything is working. I found this fuse replacement by a previous owner...

    [​IMG]

    That's now been replaced so I moved on to test the switch gear. Only the indicator, horn and pass switch were working properly so I opened them up to try and clean them with some contact cleaner. The RHS light switch had some wires detached and requiring soldering back together. I removed the light switch to get down to the start button and all the tiny springs and copper contacts fell out of it as it was removed... it's a complete pain to put back together as the copper contacts jump off the springs at the slightest excuse.

    [​IMG]

    This combined with the lack of working switches on the other side and my limited soldering experience lead me to eBay in the hunt of a replacements. I've now got a set of CBR600F2 on there way to me this week. They'll look at lot nicer as well as the black plastic on mine was slowly but surely starting to fade again.
     
  15. straycat

    straycat Member

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    Nice work ! Looking really good
     
  16. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    use dielectric grease - helps it stay in place..
     
  17. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    Thanks for the tip! I'll pick some up as it would be nice to get these switches working as well for the future.
     
  18. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    CBR600 switches have arrived. The RHS was pretty straight forward just needing a re-pin from 2 x 4 pin connectors into the single 9 pin. The LHS took a bit more thinking about, electrics are not a strong point of mine! It took quite a lot of staring at and comparing the two wiring diagrams working out how to make 11 wires become 6. I worked out it just required the headlight plug wiring in and a few wires splicing together to combine earths etc. Once all the wiring was done I had to drill new locater holes into the bars as the originals didn't match up. They're now all fitted and I'm really pleased with the look

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Yeah, very nice. Those look to be in really good condition too. One of my favorite upgrades when I can find decent ones at a reasonable price. Been doing a lot of RC51 throttle housings and the little kill switch / starter button pod too for a racier look on some of my bikes.
     
  20. straycat

    straycat Member

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    Looks Great !!
     
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