The VFR that wasn't but now is.

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by RogueRC24, Oct 19, 2021.

  1. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I run my tapered steering bearings pretty tight. To the point that the triples won't freely flop side to side. Not until I get the weight of the forks and wheel on will the front end be able to flop lock to lock. But that's my preference, everyone has the way they like it.

    I will also over tighten the new tapered bearings when I first assemble the triples to make sure everything is seated nicely, then back it off, give it some back and forth movement and then set the tension where I like it.

    When I then torque the top triple clamp nut, it will add some tightness too, so I try and compensate a touch on the threaded nuts below the triple.

    I have never had to take a bike back apart to re-adjust the bearings and I don't get any "hunting" in the front end. I am also able to take my hands off the bars without headshake and steer the bike just by leaning.
     
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  2. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Once I get my bike lift moto vise mounted I will give it another go on the bearings. I have a lift but without the vise, it is a very iffy proposition to remove the triple and rework. Thanks for the advice!
     
  3. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Back on the op table. Exhaust has been planned out. Need to make a new temp hanger and then off to the welder. Still don’t have my welding machine. :(
    Head bearing will be in the works and last but not least a new looking seat. The 7Hundy had an abused Corbin so I traded seats and I am custom shaving my own foam. Really fun. I actually found the proper tool in my mom’s random stash of tools. Lol FYI it makes a huge mess! image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  4. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    If you haven’t got the side panels and bellypan there are new fibreglass ones on eBay uk for reasonable prices particularly if you use the global shipping program
     
  5. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    I do have all of the panels, but I will check it out anyway! I have hesitated on placing the bodywork back on due to more test runs. Since my muffler needs replacing everything has been on hold. Maybe this weekend I will get the bike up to the welders to finish my exhaust.
     
  6. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Step 1: bike on lift and mock up lower 2-1 section using whatever to see what my options are with the parts I have. In this case a combo of cardboard and junk KTM exhaust pieces $11 from an estate sale of all places.

    RIP the poor dude who was in a road collision on our back roads on his Aprilia Tuono 1100 Factory last year. I did some research on the dude and he had a full life by all accounts. At one point was a factory Kawasaki rider in the '70s. Vietnam and post war became a psychologist to help PTSD military people.

    Step 2: Mocked up muffler hanger out of card board since that will dictate the lengths and curves of the in-between sections of KTM. Then I had one of my engineer co-workers model and water jet my aluminum bracket. Came out nice so far. 2022-10-27 09.00.05.jpg
     
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  7. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    I thought, but could not confirm if the 86/87 had different angles on the exhaust heads vs the 88/89.

    Does anyone know for sure they are different?
     
  8. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Confirmed. Even earlier in your thread somewhere.
     
  9. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Yeah, I did scour my post but couldn't find a solid answer. Thanks Capt!
     
  10. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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  11. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Yeah, I knew you would find that before I could. I am going crazy with all of the exhaust stuff. How about the angles on a 90? 3rd gen?
     
  12. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I have never investigated. You are looking for something compatible with the 88/89, yes?
     
  13. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    yeah. This feels like a lost cause, until I either purchase a welder or pay someone half as much money to make 3ft of custom exhaust. I will keep diving into it this weekend. Even my buddy is going to charge me (which is fine), I just want to be done at this point without breaking the bank. No cheap way around this. :)
     
  14. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Yeah, tough spot. Nobody has those bikes over here, except for you, so there aren't any trail blazers.

    Post up which piece you need. Is it a 2-1 with a up-sweep to where you want the muffler? Or is it just a single S-bend connecting piece?
     
  15. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    I will shoot some picks of what I am trying to do this weekend. I also sent another email to Hindle to see if I could just buy the high mount + 2-1 and adapt from there. Most likely resulting in much less welding, but at a higher entry price. Either way this will not be cheap. :( The price of admission I suppose.
     
  16. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Handle said f - off essentially. So I have 2 options and I will pursue both. #1 fix the motad. image.jpg
    #2 get the custom exhaust rolling officially. image.jpg I will start cutting Monday.
    Today I got out of work early and completed my fan switch. image.jpg And install side panels. One panel needed a replacement plastic nub. So I had my coworker model out a copy nub and 3d print a carbon reinforced nub. Measure location, score each side and use the plastic bond Capt mentioned. Let dry overnight before applying pressure to the bond.
    B7A42F08-1B14-41D2-A79B-F5AD8725671D.jpeg
    AA9927BB-E2BD-4234-9E71-E2797B502401.jpeg
    8B193194-9826-4814-BEB7-1B66E33AA4C3.jpeg
     
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  17. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Ohh and opposite side fairing that didn’t need repair has been installed. Also glad I worked in the fan switch as cylinder 2 coil had come lose on the last test ride. Threads had stripped so a slightly longer bolt cured that.
    The bike that ever ends. Hahaha
    image.jpg

    Oh and my fender some cool guy sent me is going under the knife (dremel) tomorrow.
     
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  18. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Nub came out well and seems pretty sturdy. image.jpg so I know the panel sits further out but that puts way less pressure on the glued nub and keeps the bodywork in position. Only super OCD peeps will freak out.

    unsure whether I want to put the belly on or not. My affection for nekkid bikes is kicking in with panic about too much bodywork. Hahahaa

    need to paint pen he nub as well.
     
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  19. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    That looks good. You might consider cutting a couple small strips of ABS and epoxy on a couple "bridges" connecting the tower to the nub. You could put them on the back side that you can't see. And then some touch up.

    I think they way the mid and lower separate, it looks better with the lower. If it was a straight line break, maybe. I think the full lowers look really good with the now 17" wheel filling in that space.
     
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  20. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Also... don't you dare run around with that extra key bouncing and banging around on your powder coated triple clamp.

    key.jpg
     
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