Ed’s 85 VF700F

Welllllll that’s a bummer.

How do we feel about patching radiators? Solder? Brazing?


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YIPES!

 

Any good radiator shop should be able to repair that.

I had mine repaired and he tanked it and tested it before giving it back.

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Aaaand we’re back online.

Big thanks to Jim who set me up with his radiator guy in TX - no-nonsense kind of dude that looks like he did great work pretty quickly!

Warmed the engine up a bit and no leaks. I’m holding my breath that the rad woes are over.

I am, however, still getting a flush of gas if I leave the bike sitting for any time, enough to make a puddle on the floor. It clears up after a bit, but needless to say I want it gone.

I would’ve thought the o rings on the SS tubes were a-ok because they were new, but maybe they got bungled up when I installed them. Entirely from the carbs serving the front right and rear right cylinders.

Anyone know the size of the o-rings? I want to try and source some viton replacements. eBay seller is away on vacation and the parts fiche just has them in the gasket set.

After that clears up (a few minutes) I’ve still got a drip from here, which I assume is the overflow?




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7 x 2 mm for the fuel tubes. I buy them in bulk. I don't expect any issues, but I have never put them on the alum tubes. I have purchased and installed those kits with zero issues tho.

Did you replace the float bowl o-rings? I can't remember.

 

Yes - float bowl o rings were replaced and badly needed it. All sorts of nasty stuff gummed up in them. (Edit: photo of #1 carb bowl in post #59)

And thx - picked up some from the o ring store in Viton. Added the JIS version (1.9x6.9) also just in case.

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I had an instance on a VF750F where I used the Viton o-rings I source on the float bowls. Because they are not the taller square type oring like OEM they don't sit quite as proud. I had a small leak on the the float bowls after replacing. I found that the 2 cast locating "dowels" on the float bowls were taller than any other newer V4 I have worked on. Well they bottomed out and prevented my orings from sealing properly. Had to remove the carbs and file them down a bit. No problems after that. Now I do it on every set of carbs I work on to be sure.

Could be the culprit. I was perplexed until I figured that out.

 

Nice tip - I’ll look into it when I’ve got the carbs off.


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Cap..... dude THANKS for that tip!

 

And of course I go to run it with the tank and airbox off to figure out where exactly it’s leaking from and nothing shows. Little pisser….


Anywho. I’ll repurpose the time to replacing the OEM starter relay - I bought a caltric one with the fuse built in.

Is it typical for the two red/white to dip off of the same slot in the molex connector? I’m going to turn those into spades. Assuming the same pin out, but will test:




Edit: the wiring diagram graphically shows it tying together closer to the rectifier, but I suppose it can tie together wherever it needs to.

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Battery/starter terminals were reversed so had to finesse the wiring a bit, but all wrapped up - electrics work, starter fires.


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Glad to say the fuel leakage issue didn’t rear its head this weekend. Got 350 miles of windy mountain and farm roads in from Saturday noon to about two hours ago.

Stayed overnight at my lady’s parents place south of Allentown. Rain damped the spirited riding a bit - wet leaves everywhere - but still got some good miles in.









Something has to be done about the bungee corded duffel situation. Looking into universal saddlebags/luggage/etc.

Would be happy to hear any positive experiences, off the shelf or otherwise.


- 1972 CL350
- 1985 VF700F

 

The Tour Master Cortech 3 piece luggage is really good stuff. They all zip together and are very secure. Available in a couple sizes I think.

 

As expected the fuel leak was a fuel tube joint. This one particular at the joint where the rear right carb meets the crossover tube from the front right.

Carbs will unfortunately be coming both off and apart again.



After putting the air chamber back on this time!


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Any way to test that the o ring is sealing properly this time around?

I’ve got a carb rebuild kit and a few different sized o rings sized up and down to try and get the best fit.


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You pulled the plenum with the carbs still in the bike and insulators?

And, that looks like an aluminum replacement fuel tube. Didn't it come with new o-rings?

Carbs come out and get installed always as a unit, with the plenum, and get separated on the bench. Easiest way to fuck up the fuel tubes and linkage is trying to extract and install with the plenum removed.

 

Right - that’s what I did last time and immediately cracked the plastic tubes - which is why I had to do the aluminum tube replacement.

They did come with o-rings, but they were much smaller than expected.

Think I found what caused it - small piece of what looks like wire brush/wheel was sitting on top of the o-ring, coupled with how small the o-ring was (loose) and maybe if they weren’t sitting with gas in them for some time they’d dry up and not seal.

Replaced them with 7x2mm viton o rings. Hell of a lot harder to get back together but I tested them on the bike and it no leaks.

We’ll see if they hold up.


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Then why in the hell did you do it again?

Anyway, 7 x 2 is the correct size. Little red rubber grease or silicone lube and they "pop" together.

I've used the o-rings that came with the alum tubes 3 times now with zero issues, but I prefer the 7 x 2 Viton (FKM).

Hook up an aux fuel tank and let them sit on the bench on some cardboard or newspaper for a day or so to verify they stay dry.

 

I didn’t - the plenum came off to spot where the leak was, then went back on before pulling the carbs.


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i test O-rings by holding carbs upsidedown and blowing air into the fuel line. spray soapy water around the tube ends and look for bubbles.

>>> only works if floats and needles are in place <<<