Clutch kill switch keeps on a killin'.

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by Deadsmiley, Jul 26, 2025.

  1. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Insider

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    When I pull in the clutch, I cannot start my 1998 VFR unless the bike is in neutral.

    It doesn't quite push the switch in far enough by about 1mm.

    I have aftermarket, adjustable levers.
    I have stock levers.
    I have replaced the aftermarket levers with different aftermarket levers.
    I have replaced the switch with an OEM Honda switch.

    Nothing has helped this issue and I am a bit stumped.

    I am open to suggestions, insults and curses. Lord knows I have had let a few of them fly while dicking with this. Thanks!
     


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  2. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    just one suggestion: diode
     


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  3. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Insider

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    Can you expand on this? I know what a diode is, not sure how it applies in this case?
     


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  4. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    one-way path to ground, logic circuit, switch on/switch off. service manual shows location, check it with a test meter. cheap to replace.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2025


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  5. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Insider

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    The switch on the clutch works. I can push it in a tiny bit more and I can start the bike when not in neutral. It just doesn't get pushed in far enough with any levers I have, including the stock lever, which is very weird. The previous switch worked as well, but had the same issue.

    I am thinking it has to be something mechanical with that lever or the lever hardware.
     


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  6. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    carry on

     


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  7. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Insider

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    I think just talking about it here has led me to thing about this a bit more.

    Thank you for being my sounding board.
     


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  8. paprides

    paprides Insider

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    I had a similar issue. I meticulously cleaned the switch then used the lever adjustment wheel ( I’m on a 5th Gen) to get to the point where a clutch pull would allow the bike to start. Although the ‘engagement,’ point is a little farther away from the bars than I would like, it works every time.
    Having written this, I don’t know if you’ve tried the myriad of adjustments with the stock levers.
    And.
    No offense intended, yours is a situation that keeps me using stock levers as aftermarket units, I believe, tend to be prone to this issues. Not all, but some.
     


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  9. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Insider

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    No offense taken. You are probably correct on the aftermarket levers. I still have my original ones and will swap them out when I get home in a few months.

    Thanks for all of your suggestions, I appreciate the input.
     


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  10. vfrgiving

    vfrgiving New Member

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    I have this issue on a VTX I've put a million miles on (stock lever). Uses the same switch as the VFR. There's a bit of slop in the lever now, I believe from wear to the brass bushing in the lever.. the switch will make if I pull upwards while pulling in.

    Have you considered building up the nub end (that hits the switch) of your favorite lever with a bit of JB weld or something? Nothing extreme, like just a little dab enough to push the switch in further.
     


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  11. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I had a related issue on my VFR1200, the lever on the bike is not quite right for the master (a puzzle I've not yet cracked) and where the brake switch engaged, the lever had a bit of a recess so never worked the switch. I drilled a small hole in the lever and fitted a self-tapping screw; now the head of the screw works the brake switch as it should. Building up with JB Weld or metal epoxy would have been a good alternative.
     


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