I bought another VF500F

I had another another thread (https://vfrworld.com/threads/1984-vf500-project.62456/) where I described the VF500F I bought. The VF500F was my dream bike, especially in a very particular color scheme.

The other day another 500 showed up on Marketplace. It appears to be in much better condition than mine. The plastics in particular appear to be complete and in very good condition, and in exactly the color scheme of my dreams. As soon as I saw it, I told my wife I was buying it, and the next I drove 10-hours round trip to pick it up. Here she is:

 

The previous owner had taken a bunch of parts off to start work on it, so it is missing them in the above picture (radiator, headers, etc). I believe they're all in a tote. He says he was able to turn the engine over. He had taken out the carbs out, but not sure why.

I say that because he said the fuel tank lock was seized. The tank was full of gas. Given that the registration sticker said 1999, I assumed that gas had been sitting for a long time. There is no sign of rust penetrating the tank. I also was not able to open the tank. Pulled the petcock and drained what I could out of the bottom. Gas came out dark brown - like cola - and stinky, but not as bad as my first bike. I was surprised that I didn't see any particulate matter coming out. I realized that's because the in-tank fuel strainer was in place and didn't come out with the petcock.

Once I got all the gas I could out, I could tell there was a lot of solid material inside. It sounds like there are rocks in there.

So I need to get the tank cap off to get that crap out of there, but the lock isn't moving. I don't know if I have the wrong key (it does turn the ignition and the helmet lock) or if the lock is seized. I think the key is going all the way, but I don't know for sure.

I would prefer not to drill the cylinder out, and would prefer not to call a locksmith.

I sprayed some lock lube in it and put a pick in. At least a few of the pins are sliding freely now, but they all seem to be on one side of the lock. Lock still does not turn. Do these locks only have pins on side?

Anyone have experience picking or opening a lock on one of these?

 

Glad you TOLD your wife and not asked…

Outstanding acquisition my friend!


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Does the key have a number stamped on it ?


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Pins on one side. Keep soaking and working the key to gain any kind of movement. Apply firm downward pressure to the cap when trying to turn the key.

Smart choice on picking that one up. Have fun!

 

I had the same problem. Be patient and do not force anything! I used PB Blaster....sprayed it into the lock and all around the assembly so it would soak through and into the underneath. Speaking of which - since you have the sender out - can you see the underside of the fuel cap? I used an endscope to see what I was dealing with. I also poured some PB Blaster into the sender opening and left the tank upside down so the Blaster would soak the fuel cap underside.

Do not drill anything out! Yet. Give yourself at least a week of soaking and nudging it GENTLY, like Capt said.

 

It came with two keys. One is a Honda key with C15 on the shaft. It turns the ignition and, it seems, the helmet lock.

The other is a blank made by Curtis, stamped HD-75 with "Fits Honda USA" on the back. It doesn't seem to turn any of the locks - not the ignition, fuel tank, nor helmet lock. It is not a duplicate of the Honda.

 

The C15 works only on ignition then ?


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I didn't think of looking through the bottom - it never occurred to me that the fuel tank lock mechanism would be accessible from the bottom - I assumed it would be sealed. I guess there's no good reason for gas to get on the underside. I have a borescope but it's very bulky - it's maybe 20-y old. I am skeptical it will get through, but I'll give it a shot.

As for being patient - I hear you. I had a seized fork leg pinch bolt. Tried to free it with an extractor - drilled it and then broke the extractor in it. There wasn't much of the socket screw cap, but I kept hitting it with Liquid Wrench (since Project Farm's penetrating oil test had it the winner, LOL), heat, tapping it with a punch, etc. I'd do this a few times a weekend if I could (I only see my bike on the weekends). After four months it finally came out with a Torx bit banged into it. Good thing too. I had decided if it didn't come out that weekend, I was going to remove all the plastics needed to pull the forks and take it to a machine shop. I really didn't want to do that.

 

It turns the ignition as well as the helmet lock - in that I can turn them both about 30-45 degrees without much effort. I haven't been able to get electrical on it so not sure if it actually is good, but I assume so.

The helmet lock doesn't seem to actually lock right now, so not sure if that mechanism fully works.

The C15 fits most or all of the way into the fuel tank lock, but won't turn it.

I don't know what the Curtis key does. It's not a duplicate of the Honda key, and it doesn't seem to fit any of the locks.

 

Ok got it …
Follow the guys advice here … they know plenty. With their help you will get it done.
Again, great purchase!


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The 500 doesn't have a sender. No fuel gauge, no fuel light. Just a hole for the petcock.

 

Ohh! I thought sender was the petcock, had to look it up after this post.

Would output from a bike's sender have to come out through a separate, larger hole?

 

"sender" usually refers to a sensor for fuel level (low fuel light) and/or an actual potentiometer for a fuel gauge. Typically mounted on a plate that bolts to the bottom of the fuel tank and sealed with a large oring.

 

Decided to focus on one bike instead of having two projects at the same time. At first I was going to focus on the first bike (call her A), as I had already changed some fluids and so forth. Since A's starter solenoid was wonky, I planned to move the solenoid from B to A. Then I realized the new bike (call her B) is in much better cosmetic condition and so might be better mechanically as well, and decided my main focus will be on B.

I had not yet ascertained whether electrical worked on B yet. First I checked the starter solenoid - works perfect. Ignition key turned on the lights on the control panel, but that was all. Checked the fuses and panel - only inconsistent continuity across the fuse holders. I took a look and there was some oxidation on the fuse ends and the holders. Fuses were good, so I went to try lightly cleaning the holders. One of them promptly broke. Just when I was dreading having to source new holders, learn how to solder them in, etc. etc I realized... I have a second bike to steal from!

I took the panel from A - surprisingly in better condition than B's - cleaning its holders where needed, and voila. Start button turned starter! I'll tackle fixing the panel with the broken holder later.

And that's where my day ended. I won't see the bikes for another week at best.

 

Having more then one bike of the same year and model really comes in handy sometimes! If even to verify how something is put together....once you take it apart.

BTW - here's the '84 that I bought earlier this year. Everything worked except the rear brake. I still haven't gotten around to that job. Hopefully this winter....

 

Beautiful. Did you buy it in that condition, and if so and you don't mind my asking - how much did it cost?

 

Thanks - yes bought in this condition. Locally so only a 1/2 hr. drive to pick up. I paid $2,300 cash - full asking price.

I saw the ad (FBMP) the day before and told myself I already had enough bikes....I had to start leaving them alone.

Then started thinking about the easy transport and the excellent original condition of the bike and the little devil on my shoulder won out.

I bought it from the daughter of the owner, who had developed a health problem and could no longer ride. She had the bike serviced just prior to listing it but didn't have the invoice for the work. I contacted the shop and they were able to provide a copy of what they did. About $800 worth including a carb rebuild.

Something I did not notice until later......the VIN plate is missing on the bike! Further...the title she gave me was for an RC26. It was still in the name of the bloke who sold it to her Dad. And was someone I had also bought a bike from (RC26) back in 2019. That guy is pretty legit. I left him a VM but never heard back so will probably try again soon.

Funny thing is when I got it home and looked it over there was a spare key in a magnetic key holder attached to the front stem kinda hidden away. Came with tool kit and owner's manual.

I guess one day I will get a replacement VIN plate for her.

The daughter was elated someone like me bought it. Said she already had a few people come look at it and were apparently clueless about these models....

 

It's nice when the deal works out for both parties on more levels than just the cold, hard transaction.

My first project bike was an 85 CBR600F1 that was almost complete. I got from a guy who had refused to sell it to people who wanted to part it out.

People can do what they want with their stuff, but I think it's a shame to part out something that is pretty much complete.

Sadly, I lost all the plastics for that bike when my separate garage burned down, so it may end up getting parted out anyways.

 

Since the carbs had already been removed (I had read a few warnings not to do this unless needed - why?), I decided to take a look inside.

One float bowl screw broke off as I unscrewed it. The others came off no problem, but on two of the carbs, the float bowl would not come away. I saw a video where the poster had a similar problem - he said it looked like they had been glued or similar. I haven't tried to free it yet, but in the video he was able to tap a razor blade in to free the parts.

Is this a thing for these bikes? Or is it possible the 40-y old gaskets just make things super sticky?