Problems pressurising clutch fluid line

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by vfr800owner83, Oct 12, 2025.

  1. vfr800owner83

    vfr800owner83 New Member

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    So I've bled the fluid from the reservoir and bleed nipple, dismantled the clutch lever and added a new rubber bush and added some grease to stop it squeaking. Now having real trouble getting it all working again.

    When my brakes were serviced they had to replace all the network of pipes/fluid lines due to the fact that old lines contain lots of air bubbles and it's a nightmare/impossible to get them pressurised again.

    I'm wondering if anyone has managed to re pressurise their clutch by the standard way (squeezing lever and opening/closing the bleed nipple/valve) or if I should expect to have to replace the entire fluid line. I've spent an hour adding Dot 4 to the reservoir (x4 fills), squeezing lever, seeing air bubble, opening closing valve, but no luck. No pressure, no clutch. I've never replaced a fluid line myself and thinking perhaps I'll give it a try. Also heard of another method of adding fluid in from the bleed nipple end.

    Just wondering if anyone else has successfully managed to re pressurise their clutch without having to take it into the garage. Any tips/advice appreciated.
     


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  2. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Get yourself a cheap vacuum bleeder, and add some thread tape to the nipple threads, and you should be able to rebleed the clutch easily enough. There's no need to replace a line, most of the VFR lines are steel tubes in any case.

    It is a bit late to tell you this, but unless I was planning on disconnecting a line, I would never fully empty a reservoir. You can happily syringe out all the free liquid and then mop out any residue from the reservoir floor, but you can do that without emptying the master cylinder bore and introducing air unnecessarily.
     


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    mello dude likes this.
  3. vfr800owner83

    vfr800owner83 New Member

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    I replaced the line and now it works. My advice is not to spend ages trying to add fluid to an old line, but to replace it. Squeaky lever solved as well. I used the 'string hitch' method which saved a lot of time in removing parts like the fuel and coolant tanks and allowed me to route the line quickly and easily.
     


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  4. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Replacing a line because the system wont bleed is silly... I dont understand why you did that...its your money....
    I was going to add as a first step is to get a speedbleeder for the clutch slave....
    https://store-speedbleeder-com.3dca...9405-H9405-9422-H9422-Speed-Bleeder_p_34.html

    Agree though, the clutch system is major PIA to bleed, especially with a dry system...(I'm not looking forward to redoing mine.)
     


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  5. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    MityVac. Or you could just continue to beat yourself mercilessly.
     


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  6. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Got one of those.... thinking first try, do a reverse bleed, maybe MityVac later...
    I've done it several ways...
     


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  7. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Having some thread tape on the nipple threads is a must if you want the vacuum to work properly.
     


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  8. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    I haven't had much luck with the thread tape stuff. (Could be the operator. :rolleyes:) Waht I do is before I install the bleed valve, the day before I use it, I smooth on a bit of hardening Permatex gasket sealant, let set overnight, go from there. Works for me......
     


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