Front brake pads rubbing against the disc to the point if u ride and not use front brake it gets very hot to the touch. When on centre stand there is no free spin the wheel just stops when u stop spinning it by hand Changed brake fluid. Went to 5.1 then back to 4 now. No air bubbles, lever feels good. Discs are straight. Aftermarket levers doesn't interfere. Changed seals 2 months ago. (Seals only, they have been placed correctly lubed in the correct piston size, altough maybe a too much lube)) Cracked the bleed nipple nothing changes. Return port clear. EBC brake pads. (Tried with backplate and without same thing) Just went out to check the pistons i cleaned and applied a tiny bit of rubber grease to try to improve the movements. (Nothing changed) Spring pad are correctly installed, pad hangers are fine and both are correctly lubed. Whats left to do, is to try to do that fork alignment. Both sides behave the same, bikes left side very slightly less bite. Maybe I used a bit too much rubber grease when installing the seals. Thinking about just getting oem brake pads as current EBC one are used still plenty of life though Any advice? Or just take the wallet hit and get the seal kit and stainless pistons kit? £££££ expensive rather not. So after writing, this post probably goimg to be pointless as not much advice can be given i guess apart to spend money on new pistons and seals. Worth a try to see if anyone can give advice it. Rear, is okay
Some good diagnostic info there. When you crack the nipples nothing changes so you know hydraulic pressure is not the problem and replacing pads, flushing fluids etc is not going to help. Your root cause seems to be excessive binding between the seals and the pistons in the calliper. My suggestion is to strip the callipers fully: 1. Make sure the grooves for the seals are cleaned out properly; gently scrape out any corrosion etc so the seal grooves are pristine; if not you may have too much pressure pushing the seals onto the pistons so they can't easily retract 2. Make sure the piston surfaces are smooth and shiny; any corrosion here will cause binding. A bit of corrosion on the exposed end of the piston (outside of the seals) is of no consequence. I use a green scotchbrite pad to clean pistons, plus some Autosol metal polish to finish 3. As longs as the seals are the right size, they should be OK to reuse, but clean them before use, I use some silicone spray and a rag 4. Fork alignment probably won't be a factor as the pistons will move to take up the clearance (within reason). You can't misalign the right side, and the left side just needs to be loosened, then bounce the forks to find a happy place, and retighten. But I doubt that is your issue. You should be able to move the pistons back with firm finger pressure.
