VF 500 front end swap

This bike obviously has had a lot of work put into it. I think you can clearly see the potential problems with the front end, just as you mentioned. I'm not sure if the CBR1000 triples will completely eliminate this as just a little offset probably won't be enough.

Also, the swingarm fits... but I'm 100% sure that it's not 'right'. I've done a lot of investigation in this area and have measured countless number of swingarms and compared them to the VF parts and the 3D models I've made of the VF frames. In looking at the pictures I can clearly see that whoever did this work made the #1 mistake when doing a swingarm swap: they lined up the chain. This is by far the easiest way to do it, but in this case it puts the wheel off center. The actaul amount is 10mm, that means this bike now has the equivalent of a bent frame. It's a bummer too because it looks sweet!

 

im sorry for seeming condasending, but to get a adittude with the one guy thats just trying to help you out is pretty shity, that being said i would like to see some pictures of this thing when you get it done, i have one also, good luck.

 

Maybe VFR triple clamps, if not the CBR1000 triples. I remember Steve Scott had F2 forks, so there is a way to mount them the right way, as that is how he did things. Of course, there are many ways to skin a cat, so maybe there is another solution. As far as the rear wheel alignment, i found this blurb while searching for Honda triple clamp dimensions..."There has been heated argument on the RC30 list about the suitability of fitting spacers to off-set the wheel to the right and avoid interference. Most people claim they cannot feel the effects of a 2mm or 3mm spacer on the bike's handling left -vs- right, and note that the Isle-of-Man racers ran as much as 6mm spacers in later years (with longer replacment wheel drive pins) when those racers were using 6.5" rear wheels" I don't have time to measure now, but the wheel looked centered when i eyeballed it-10mm is a lot to try to shim away tho... Do you think the wheel is off to the left or right when looking at the back of the bike? If its left, you could shim the wheel, but i dont know if i would go 10mm, thats almost half an inch. If it's right, i dont know how you could fix it...

 

http://www.guukan.org/vf500/
Another VFR junkie- he has a VF500, 86 VFR750, RC30 and RC45... he is also trying to graft a SSSA onto the 500...

 

The last I knew, Steve Scott was only running an F2 front wheel, not an entire front end.

I have measured all of those parts before. In looking at the photos the sprocket carrier of the VFR swingarm/hub has not been modified. That means it's in the same location as it was on the VFR. This dimension is 10mm further from the centerline of the motorcycle than on the 500. If the chain is lined up straight that means the wheel is off center by 10mm. Again, this is a common mistake made by probably 75% of the folks who try this kind of swap. It's tough to eyeball 10mm but you sure can feel it when riding.

Here's a quick check - if the wheel is correctly positioned and has a 160 rear tire on it then the chain will be 5mm or less away from the edge of the tire. Usually the chain will sit just 2-3mm from the edge. Take a quick look, if you can fit your finger in there then the wheel is off center.

 

The 600RR front end is definitely too short. I have a VF500F and a 2005 600RR front end, and I have mocked it up. Way short.

 

Wow ALot of activity :ncb:

I got the motor running real good but the carbs leak alittle.

Or well alot, So I need to rebuild them.

I toold off the air box, and fount that its leaking thru a tube that attaches to the top of the carbs, with a bar running to all 4 carbs.

Fuel is just poring out of it. it looks more like a air breather hose.

 

That's the bowl breather tube, which means you have a float stuck open. Pretty easy fix, the only difficult part is you have to figure out which one it is. Sometimes that's easy, other times not. If money is no object I'd suggest just replacing all four because if one is bad, the others aren't far behind....

 

Take it apart and inspect it before you buy parts. A thorough cleaning maybe all that's necessary. The floats, needle and seats may be fine. All it takes is a teeny bit of contamination to open the "flood" gates. You will probably want to replace the float bowl gaskets though. I'm sure these are nicely flattened out by now, and you don't want a "new" leak after all is said and done.

 

cool cool, I just wanted to make sureis is a vent, does it connect anywere?

 

It attaches to the bottom side of the airbox base plate. Normally they don't get moved because there is no reason to remove the carb bodies from the base plate unless something major is broken.

 

No...on some models they go to a fitting on the airbox. Your vintage they just sit there, open to atmostpheric pressure.

 

jamie quit telling lies. j/k

 

JD might be right...I didn't see his post before I answered (start of the second page). My point about the float bowl vent is on many models it just goes nowhere.

 

Yeah, most of the time the open end terminates somewhere in front of the rear tire (I've really understood that). After my last post I remembered that the 86's had external bowl vent hoses. I think running them into the airbox was better. Sure, it could flood out the cylinders when the bike is on it's side. With the external hoses now you get a puddle of gas on the ground. Which is more dangerous? Obviously there is something else that I'm missing.