Results of Valve Check on V-tech.....

I've read a couple of threads on valve check intervals.

I'd appreciate any feedback on how true to school everyone is on the 16,000 mile schedule valve check and what the results were.

Alternatively, I'd also like to know about anyone going longer between valve checks.


I have 13,000 miles on my bike and am thinking of letting the valve check go to 20,000. I figure at 20,000, the bike will definitely need some adjustments.


Thanks, Boston

 

Ive got 15,480 on my 06. Ive scheduled my valve job for Oct 16th and will let ya know how it turns out.:thumbsup:

 

I let my pass till 32k and have a major tune up at the stealership, cost me over $600.00 and the valves are still within spec. Basiclly the tech inspected the valves and adjust if need it.

 

Mine was done at 15k right before I bought it... it had 150 miles on it since he had the service done. At about 17-18k, I started hearing tapping. I dont know if this is because something wasn't done right or if there is a problem with the cam chain tensioners.

I've read of lots skipping the valve checks for extended periods of time. It seems like the information you find is hit or miss on whether it should be done religously or not. There are some that have tapping sounds right on schedule. There are others that have gone 60k+ miles without even a check and they don't even have any tapping.

Keep in mind that while you may not hear tapping... that doesn't mean everything is OK. There can still be a valve out of spec. Is it going to be detrimental to your engine if you have a few that are marginally out of spec... no. Is it ok to go to 20k...yeah... you're not going to run into issues there.

I think it all comes down to a piece of mind thing. Is it going to drive you insane not knowing 100% that your baby is in tip top shape? If so, get it done. If it isn't...then you can go 20k without an issue.

 

Generally, the harder you ride the bike the more likely the valves will get out of spec. If you ride like a grandma I'm sure you can wait until 32K for a valve check. But if you ride like Valentino Rossi, make sure to do 16K valve checks

 

Had mine checked at 17,000 and everything was within spec.

 

Joey....

So you said I ride like a grandma
Anyway Joey is right depend on how well you ride and take care of the bike:wink::biggrin:

 

That's why I have mine checked every 4,000 miles. :biggrin: (JK, of course).

 

Then Joey.....we've ridden together!
You must be waiting for the 100K mark.... :biggrin:
:fencing:

 

Baileyrock on VFRD has @ 60,000k on his without a check yet and he's no grandma. Personally, I'm going to wait till @ 30,000 to check mine, but I'll be doing it myself so the only expense will be the special tools. So far, I've got 20k and all sounds good.

 

A little tapping is ok, that means there is clearance between the valve stem and bucket, basically id worry more if it didn't make any noise as that means the valve is under tension (preloaded), and that means you probably need service. The way these are designed is when the valve seat starts to wear down with the valve, the stem goes further upwards as the valve is situated reducing valve clearance within the bucket and shim, when this happens the valve gets preloaded with pressure and sometimes lets some of the combustion compression out because its not fully closed. This can end up as a burnt valve(s) if it happens.

 

So along those lines, as seats wear, the interface between the valve stem and the shim gets tighter, not looser. In general you won't hear tapping from it being too tight. You would normally only hear tapping when it is too loose.

In my experience the signature problem created by a valve / shim interface being too tight is hard cold starts, because as VIFFER RIDER said, the valve hangs open a teeny bit and compression drops slightly. Also - you'd probably notice a decrease in fuel economy, and you might even be able to see it on the plugs because it may run a bit rich.

 

I've been thinking about this also, I have almost 32k miles on my '99 and my valves have not been checked. Starts fine when cold and fuel consumption is normal.

 

Oh man, not cool bro... I didn't tell you this because I didn't want to embarrass you. I rode slow on purpose because I wanted to make you look good for your fiance. he hehe yeah right :thumbsup:

 

Joey - Anna here.
Make that 'look good for your WIFE'
It's official, ladies & gentlemen......
He's stuck with me for ETERNITY.....
muhuhahahahahah (evil laughter ensuing.....)
So I guess that's MRS. GeorgiaRider from now on....
:xxx:
(and thanks for making him look good for me - must've worked OK since I married him.....)

 

It all comes down to peace of mind doesn't it. So here's how the manufacturer looks at it: they build a product that they think will be reliable, and will do the distance with a minimum of warranty claims. To do that, they get conservative on the servicing. Good reasons. They minimize their claims, their dealerships bring in some cash and there are things that the Techs notice when they are doing the routine servicing. This helps them verify whether or not their maintenance programs are adequate, and gives them some insight into how well their product is performing.

At 15k miles, they KNOW they are most likely not going to have any valve issues. In fact they probably have it calculated out to a minimum percentage of failures or reworks. So if we, as consumers could figure out what their factor of safety is, we could figure out just how far to go. I am guessing you could probably safely double the interval, therefore, 30k miles. Will I do that? Nope, because I tend to be a bit conservative. But I will go 20k the first time around and see how it does, maybe even 25k?

Remember, it's pay me now or pay me later. Burned valve seats are going to cost you big bucks, so a $600 valve check with burned seats could cost you more than double. Also, there is the Murphy factor: the guy or gal that put your motor together: Were they having a good day or a bad day? did they shim the clearances to the minimum or the maximum, or strive to hit the middle? You don't know what they did. Did they get lazy and run them just a little tighter than spec because they didn't have the right shims in their basket? Or was it just too much of a pain to get it right?

I would aire on the side of caution, but I will still go at least 20 to 25k.

Just my Engineer's opinion.

Cheers
John.