Worthy mod for 4th, 5th and 6th gens

pretty sure you have a pair in the closet hiding out in a box.....

 

if they had something for my bike that would be awesome

 

They do Matt, it's called "Jamie Daugherty"

BZ

 

NOO i wont dare ask him to machine any more parts for me hes probably ready to kick my ass poor guy every time i talk to him im always asking him how to figure out to make this part :biggrin:

 

Just trying to help:biggrin:

BZ

 

Not a bad addition to making it better, Maybe. I looked into them but my take was after I did what I did to the suspension I was starting to out ride the bike as a whole, brakes was my next concern, I had here what to me felt pretty darn good in the corners. but after I looked into a few options in what it would take to go to the next level if there's a next level, I figured I had the best bang for what the ole girl could do, seriously, if I need something better it was time to start looking at another machine, as hard as it was to reconcile shes for the most part as good as it can get, besides we all know it's the rider that makes the biggest difference, Right? but hey, nothing wrong with trying this and that at all. good call BZ..

 

Yes, you can buy the triangles from Thurn, but an cheaper way is to add washers to the upper shock mount.

You will have to remove your upper shock mount, and separate the bolt from the U shaped bracket as the stock bolt will be too short once you add washers.

The bolt is spot-welded to the U part and I used an angle grinder with a cutoff disc to carefully slot the head of the bolt without damaging the U, then knock the bolt out.

IIRC, you will need a 10x120mm long bolt and nut to replace with, but don't take my word for it, measure the stock part and go from there.

Upon reassembly, you can add washers as required to obtain the correct ride height. Watch for the notch in underside of the frame member that the mount bolts to and you may have to mod your washers too by grinding one edge straight to suit.

The rear suspension operates on approximately a 2:1 linkage ratio, so that when the shock moves an inch, the rear axle moves about 2 inches.

So shimming the shock mount 5mm will net you about 10mm of ride height out back.


Last thing is to watch the lower shock eye to make sure it doesn't contact the dogbone at full droop, this is your limiting factor as to how much you can raise the rear.

And all the things that NorCal Boy said are spot-on with regard to swingarm angle and the chain tension.

You'll have to run it a little looser than spec so that when the swingarm flattens out when the rear compresses, you won't be too tight on the chain.

 

If anyone is interest in a set of ones for a GEN 4 I have 10 sets made from the Thurn dimensions. They are Aluminum like the factory ones. I went this route to get more travel clearance for my under tail exhaust. Looking to sell for $40.00 shipped. When I have a chance Ill take some pics and start another thread. For the side stand issue I had Tori weld a 1" square tube piece to the bottom of my stand and all is better. I did not like how much it leaned without it.

 

Not only will it raise up the passenger, if seated, but it raises the center of gravity which is already too high. The lower the center of gravity the better the cornering.
If you carry a passenger all the time you need a completely different bike. A cruiser not a sport bike,otherwise you are having fun the the passenger is not.

The cadnium plated steel will not break or snap off like the aluminum.

 

Hum, Harleys have a low center of gravity but dont corner so well. And remember whenever you make one thing stronger you make another thing weaker.

 

Shim

3mm is about the shim size to put you in the ball park of mod.

 

Don't you get the same benefit if you just lower the forks in the triple trees? It seems cheaper too.

 

^^^^^^

Kind of Nitro, but you can get somw real front end instability if you drop too much, which from my understanding, is easy to do.

Raising the rear is often the better choice.

BZ