compression test

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by jafo, Apr 8, 2010.

  1. jafo

    jafo New Member

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    hello everybody newbie here OK I have A 1985 vf700f interceptor just recently had cylinders
    honed and put in new rings my question is
    how long do i Waite to do a compression test because there doesn't seem to be any improvement
    with new ring in and was told if i do one now it will be a false reading your thoughts .thank you.
     


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  2. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    It does take some time for the rings to "seat" or "break in" but you should be well within spec IMO even before break in is complete.

    What were you getting before, what are you getting now, and were these tests performed hot or cold?

    If you ringed it, checked compression hot, and still have a low reading, you probably need to do a leakdown test and you'd likely find valves not seating all the way. Have you checked the valve stem/tappet clearances?
     


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  3. jafo

    jafo New Member

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    compression well below specs valves i checked while waiting for parts they are fine
    did find some high spots after honing must need to be re-bored then with over sized
    piston and rings problem there i cannot find any ware for that model can I use over sized
    from the 86/87 vfr700f1.is there a difference in height and length?
     


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  4. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    did you measure cylinder taper, out of round, and ring gap or just throw in now rings and call it good?

    Also, you didn't answer if your tests were hot or cold and what "well below spec" means. What's the number?
     


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  5. jafo

    jafo New Member

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    test was performed cold and #s are
    L/f 82
    L/r 55
    r/f 148
    r/r 125
    and threw them in and called it good because I could not find over sized piston and rings.
    and could not find answers to see if the 86/87 vfr700f1 pistons would work.
    valve are adjusted to .006 spec.
     


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  6. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    By God, yea, that's a problem. So it's both cylinders on the left side, not cylinders that are side-by-side that are extreamly low?

    Honestly if you didn't measure piston ring end gap and cylinder taper, I'd wonder if you didn't crack a ring the first time you turned it over.

    The problem isn't that your rings are not broke in yet.

    I'd highly recommend you do a leakdown test and see where it's going. Can you connect an air compressor line to the spark plug hole and pump air into the cylinder? Get the test cylinder to TDC with both valves close, apply pressure and listen to where the majority of the air is blowing to. (i.e. into your crancase - listen at oil filler hole, back out the carbs, out the exhaust.

    Even a bad cam lobe or weak springs wouldn't show compression test results like that.
     


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  7. jafo

    jafo New Member

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    will try to do that I could see 1 bad cylinder but 2
    even if those two cylinders were tapered putting new
    rings in them will not help because if i re-hone it will be over sized
    and no over sized parts available .
     


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  8. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Keep in mind, as you apply the air to the cylinder, you will get blow by on the piston and rings out thru the crankcase. The question will be how it compares to one of your cylinders that tested within spec. I really suspect you have a valve issue but we'll see.
     


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  9. jafo

    jafo New Member

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    OK ware do i find gadget that goes in spark plug hole so i can hook up
    air compressor to do test?
    I did check valves while waiting for parts took carburetor cleaner and sprayed
    in intake and exhaust ports waited and seen no leaks.
    is there a way i could be 180 degrees off on valve timing?if so would that cause my problem?
     


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  10. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    I take it you honed all cylinders? Did you use a "honing" machine or a hand held type? If it was a honing machine with a good machinist the bores should be straight. Were they mic'd with a bore gauge?

    "did find some high spots after honing must need to be re-bored then with over sized
    piston and rings problem there i cannot find any ware for that model can I use over sized"

    Uh? High spots? Dingle ball hone? (I'm assuming you oiled the rings and pistons prior to install) Your low readings may be new rings on old wall and will have to seat themselves. If they can, because of the high spots.? How did you find the high spots? Use a bore gauge? I doubt even if you aligned all the ring grooves in the same line the compression wouldn't be that low. Can't be a cam(s) because they are half of different banks.

    "I did check valves while waiting for parts took carburetor cleaner and sprayed
    in intake and exhaust ports waited and seen no leaks."

    How did you check for valve leakage when you can't see the valve seat? Just by checking the level? Hope you sprayed oil back in the cylinder after putting carb cleaner in it.

    You can make your own adapter for putting air in to the cylinder. Take an old spark plug and knock the porcelain center out (easier said than done) and braze/weld an air tip onto it. Sometimes a male air tip threads will just thread into the plug. You can use JB Weld on the threads and leave it set overnight. Works same as welding it. Or go to NAPA or the like and buy one. When you put air in to the cylinder back off your valve adjusters all the way to make sure the valves are seated.

    You may want to contact Dave Dodge to see if any pistons are available. I don't know of any being made. But you can contact Wisco or others for custom made. Should be easy. Just supply them with one of your pistons (if need be) and have them make your X over the stock size. The problem then may be rings. The piston mfg can also help you there. Check first.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2010


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  11. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    What Gray said. Just because you checked valve/tappet clearance doesn't mean the valve face is seating completely against the valve seat.

    Some compression tester units come with an adapter to attach an airhose and pressurize the cylinder. If not, purchase or fabricate like Gray said.
     


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  12. jafo

    jafo New Member

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    yes I oiled the piston and new rings as well as the cylinder walls as for the hone job a hand held honing device was used
    as with anything you score it leaves scratch marks and you can see ware the stone did not hit cylinder
    leaving a dark spot.as far as the valves go i put carburetor cleaner in the heads to check when they were off the motor
    they did not leak or seep and fluid.
    no the machinist did not mic the cylinders as i requested he must of been to lazy...
     


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  13. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Dude, forgot one more thing;

    Make sure you have the radiator cap off.

    If for some reason your headgasket is leaking into a coolant passage then the air will leak out thru the coolant system and to the radiator.

    This "mechanic" must have been a buddy or something? Anyone paid to rebuild motors for a living wouldn't waste their time without inspecting against tolorance.
     


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  14. jafo

    jafo New Member

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    OK knowing what the problem is can anyone tell me what other piston will fit in this motor
    so i can re tare down and rebuild this. have to much invested to quit now.:confused:
     


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  15. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    are the cams specific to front and rear cylinder banks? pull the plugs and inject a few cc's of oil into the cylinders and crank it over, if the compression changes you might suspect a ring to cylinder interface issue.
     


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  16. jafo

    jafo New Member

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    Oh i know it is an issue yes the cams are in the right spot i double checked that.
    just need to know if there is another piston that can be used????:mad:
     


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  17. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Fredsncoma has a set of high performance cosworth pistons for the 1st gen that he might sell. They might work in your motor. I think his cosworth's were for a 750 and you had to use the 700 rods.
     


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  18. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    Compression test needs to be performed with good battery. Plugs out, and throttle open.
    You need to take it apart and start all over.

    "couldn't find oversize rings." What if a mechanic told you that? He would be fired.

    No need for a compression test until 500 miles.
     


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  19. jafo

    jafo New Member

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    no a mechanic didn't tell me I called places like weisco J E pistons and LA sleeves I know the 86/87 vfr700f1 had same piston diameter just don't know about skirting and pin location
    any of the older racers of these bikes know of a piston that is over sized that will work???
     


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  20. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    I am an old racer.
    Oversized pistons are for oversized bores.
    When an engine is bored the first time it will be .020 (twenty thousandths) over standard size, and the piston may have .020 stamped on the piston.
    The over size piston has to have oversize rings to match.
    The engine has to be bored at a machine shop .020 over and honed.
    If you put an engine together WITHOUT honing the piston rings will NEVER break in.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2010


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