I found this awhile back, tried it the other day,,,freakin works awesome.. http://www.helmethairblog.com/tips-and-tricks/tech-tip-fix-cracked-fairing-with-lego/
I would imagine some of your wrecked plastic pieces would work too... some other good sites: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cm/repairkits.html http://sportbikeguy.com/garage/floor/plasticrepair.html
many types of soldering irons can work ( use broad "v"-shaped tip) to melt and fuse broken plastic too. Experiment on scraps, and use lots of ventilation!! with the right technique it works well........
That's an interesting trick indeed. Though, I worry that the acetone in the sludge might dissolve the fairing too, or maybe that's the point to fuse the lego sludge with the fairing? Semi off topic: Has anyone ever used fiberglass to repair or made complete fairings? I've been looking up tutorials and whatnot recently, it seems like it'd be a nice solution for bikes for the cheap DIYer that wants to potentially customize the look or remake stock. Personally, I want to remake my stock upper fairing in FG to get the mirrors fairing mounted instead of handlebar, relocate turn signals and use the empty space around the fork for two small storage compartments .
try this link... haven't tried it yet but will soon. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=7433
It's been a year since I was hit. Every time I get a chance to work on it I do a piece then think of a way it should/could be modified so it won't break like the original plastic tabs did. Time consuming as it may be, I've been using ABS drain pipe from lowes. The one that has a foam core in it is the best for melting and adhesion. I make tabs for my buddies bikes and am in process of completing my original plastics I was hit with a year ago. my tail section was in about 50 pieces, mids were in 4 pieces each (not including the inner tabs broken off or missing) lowers were broken in half, missing big chunks and tabs as well. Nose cone was broken everywhere and missing the left side by the mid attachment area. I've basically put it together in the shape of the airtech fiberglass minus any glass usage. the mids are attached by the center scoop, the lowers are still individually removable, the nose is a 1 piece*including the turns*, and so is the tail*including all the lights. no gaps no resistance, I'll be finished ready for paint in about a week.