Rear End refurb

I'm currently stripping and refreshing my '96 vfr750. This weekend I stripped the hub and rear shock linkages for inspection, cleaning and lubing. Here are a few pics.

Rear hub recess before:



I was shocked when I saw this!


What came out:



Look at the crap that came out! Lots of gravel and small stones. And what looks to be a battery terminal bolt! I suspect it was dropped from the battery bay and found it's way into the swingarm hollows near the rear shock. Then gradually worked it's way towards the hub.


And after:



Much, much better now. Had to use a little wet n dry, to smooth out a few areas.




Then I began focus on the hub itself. This was after a quick clean, more to be done. The rear brake bracket (right column, middle) had signs of corrosion and could potentially get worse, preventing chain adjustment in the future, so I tackled it now. Some wet n dry sandpaper and a quick polish worked wonders.



The rear linkage after cleaning and re-greasing of the bearings. The bearings seem to be in very good order with no play and a smooth action. There was some evidence of grease when I removed the collars, but not a lot. Now packed with fresh grease and ready for re-assembly. The bearings on the swingarm and shock were also cleaned and regreased.




This is how she currently sits in the garage. The rear swingarm is tied to the subframe so it doesn't collapse while the linkage is out.


Next on the list
I've abit more cleaning to do to the sprocket carrier - maybe a touch of paint as it has a few flakey areas. Pics to follow.

After reassembling the linkages, I'll fit a main stand (missing on mine when I bought it) and reassemble the hub. Then it's onto the brakes - new brakes lines, seals and maybe pistons. After that's done I'll probably check the head bearings and replace the fork oil. So a busy week or two ahead of me!

 

Nice work man, I'm planning a bit of cleaning back there on mine come winter too. :thumbsup:

 

I'd recommend that everyone with 20,000+ miles do this if they haven't already. I think I had already done 100,000 when my hub bearings went bad. Everything was corroded together. I ended up just swapping out the entire swingarm with a spare I had. Only after tons of soaking with PB Blaster, a torch and lots of pounding was I able to separate the axle from the swingarm. I damaged the threads on the axle too.

Don't wait until everything is corroded.

 

Nice, I've got mine down for a number of reasons and was looking at the swing arm last night contemplating this same job, the previous owner beat it up a bit and I think it's time. Thanks for the encouragement. Any special tools I should line up or tips for a SSS virgin?

 

Hi guys, been awhile since I've posted. I'll have an updated post over the weekend with more pics.

Hi Mysta
No, no special tools required.

The rear brake arm is held in place with a very, very large circlip, so you may need to get a circlip pliers to suit (if you do, be sure to get the kind that spreads the circlip when you squeeze the pliers, rather than the other way around).

And a good rubber hammer is handy incase things need 'encouragement'.


So, quite easily done. This chap has a video of how to do it (its for a vfr800, so a little different, but mostly the same): YouTube - Blumphermann's Channel

PS: If you plan on taking the swingarm off entirely, you will need to buy or modify a socket for the castellated nut.

 

Brought back to metal, primed and painted in a remarkably close colour match to the original. Thanks plasticoat!



All the bits linded up. Makes it easier to not forget a spacer... although not impossible!



Bingo bango! All greased up/copper greased/loctite-d as necessary.


Onto the brakes


Rear caliper. Not purdy.



Here's a handy tip for piston removal. Caliper still connected to the master cylinder. Remove pads and place a thick screwdriver or similar as shown. Gradually press the brake lever and the pistons will push out. Some people push them out all the way - I push them out most of the way and manually remove them.



Et voila! Pistons removed. Not nice. Not nice at all.



Pistons after a quick cleaning.



Rear caliper components after more substantial cleaning.



Gettin' there.



Re-assembled. New seals, new pads and new brake lines (not pictured).






Time for the front calipers:










[hr]
Handy tip for polishing fasteners:


Before



Pop the fastener into a drill as above



Drill onto a cloth with a little polish - hold the cloth down with your knees if necessay.



After. Only takes a few seconds and makes a huge improvement to the overall look. To keep them looking well, either polish regularly or spray with lacquer.

 

Looking brilliant. Did you swap out bearings or anything? When I'm spreading brake pistons I'll usually try and leave the old pads in place to have something to pry against, I worry about damaging the piston surface or the bracket itself, that may be me just being paranoid.

Again though, she's looking fantastic, I can't wait to tackle the job myself... if only I didn't have to work all day

 

Hi, I am currently trying to do this, but I can't seem to get the axle nut lose. HELP!! what did you guys do to make this easier. I am lifting the entire bike off of the ground when I use my ratchet and socket set up. any advice would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,

roger_roger

 

The right socket with adapter and 1/2 impact works great. Otherwise try to push down not lift the bike up and use a cheater bar as needed.

 

Running into the same problem myself. I bought a huge 13/16 (1+13/16) wrench (the nut's a 26mm but 13/16 is only 1/1000" off of 26mm(Correction 46mm not 26, and 1+13/16 not 13/16)) which was a mistake, I should have gotten a socket and adapter to fit it to my 1/2 drive electric impact wrench. I can't see getting it off without it. Yes, I'm pushing down on it, but I can't stop it from turning the tire no matter what I do, and I'm not going to really whail on the wrench because it's a 12 point and there's not much nut to grab in the first place and if I round the thing off I'm really hosed.

So in short, get yourself an impact, it's an important tool to have in your box. If you don't have good air, an electric is a cheap alternative that will handle most if not all of what you ask it to.

 

Nice work Mr Orange!

 

Yeah, it is nice to see some real projects being done.
Thank you sir for taking the time to share.

 

Oh, wait. Stupidity overload. It's not 26mm, it's 46mm which is not equivalent to 13/16 but rather 1 and 13/16.

I just went to my local supplier and had a 13/16 in my hand and knew something wasn't right.

 

I knew what you meant! I hadn't thought of an electric impact wrench, but I am running out of knuckles to bust when I use a huge A$$ wratchet and socket. I think if I buy a box wrench, then I might be in better shape. If I don't have to hold the tool on the nut, then I can actually put some force on it from the handle. My manual says it should be torqued to 141 foot pounds, so it's going to take some muscle, but from a couple of feet out it should only take about 70 pounds of force. Not easy, but quite doable. We'll see....

 

That's niiiiice. You've inspired me to do this to mine this winter. Nice job!

 

Jev, how do you EVER get ANYTHING done with that woman around, my god.......:drool::drool::drool:

 

Makes me wonder what rear end he is talking about refurbishing. :redface:

 

OK, I got the nut off. The collar was corroded to the shaft and that took an hour to get off. Now the rear sprocket assembly is corroded to the shaft as well. This job is a nightmare on this bike. Any ideas on how to get the drive socket off of the shaft. They feel as if they are tack welded together (I know they aren't, but they feel it). I may have inadvertantly screwed up my axle threads as well. I am going to have to chase them with a 46mm die when this is all said and done. arrrrggggghhhhh! so frustrating.