New tire valve stems for VFR750FG?

Alright guys, I did my searching that did not bear much fruit.
I know the rim valves for the wheels in the fische are 42753-ML7-003 and 42753-ML7-004 (Bridgestone and Dunlop) but I cannot figure out what that means if I go to my local Napa or O Reilleys and tell them what valve stem I want.

Anyone have an idea what I want to ask for when I go there and ask for a replacement stem for the original mag wheels?

Anyone happen to know the diameter of the hole the stem goes into?

I assume it is a TR-some number I am looking for?

Would a TR-13 work? TR-13 has a 0.564" rim hole size.

 

I got Camel metal valve stems
Universal clamp-in valve / Fits .453 or .625 rim holes
Part # was 30-445

I got some nice Bridgeport metal valve stems on my Kawasaki that I got off Ebay.
I always changed all my valve stems, before I did anything else pretty much; after that it is usually steel braided lines.

 

Yeah, #1 VFR is down with a tear in the valve stem that I have to replace and #2 is having fuel pump related issues and my CB750 needs an oil change so somehow I am down to zero bikes to ride now! When it rains it pours...

 

Looks like part no. NTH 90412 from Napa will fit the bill for a tire valve replacement. It appeared to match the one on my extra wheel.
Now I get to go through the fun of removing the tire to put it on.

 

Got it on with some serious wrestling and wrangling.
After all was done I should have just pulled the bearings, blasted it and then powdered it and put a new tire on but I thought I could get a few more miles out of this tire.

Now all I have to do is change the float bowl gaskets because they are leaking like a sieve- UGH.

Anyone have their K&L gaskets leak after running a high dose of seafoam through the tank before?

 

I just get some generic Viton o-rings, #-041 (I don't have the SAE dimensions off-hand, but can locate them if needed)



Just don't do this to the next guy:



JOE in WI

 

Wut about your poor float needles? Seems like a shame not to do an ova-haul since your in there. Those MI rubbers look neato! Where did you buy them>?

 

I happen to have a Motion Industries store in town, but they have other locations around the country, and probably online availability:
Motion Industries - Keeping Industry in Motion

I'm not sure if the float needle question was directed to me, but yeah, I rebuild the whole assembly (I've done five, so far).
Joe in WI

 

Yeh Motion Pro is good, I got their Carb Stix thing, I wish you could still buy mercury instead of that crappy blue fluid. It works though. Good customer service too. V-four carbs arent as bad as people make them out to be.

 

The float needles were working fine, and I think they still are, the K&L float bowl gaskets that I put in this last year just seemed to want to leak like crazy after I put in a little more Seafoam in a tank than what is on the label. I don't get it, I have been putting gas in without ethanol but apparantley the gaskets do not like whatever is in Seafoam- Naptha, Pale oil or IPA- take your pick, it did not leak before the treatment. That's all I know.

 

Hi Mr Bluroad
Could you please find the dimentions ect as It would be great to put new seals on the old FG the next time it's stripped.( they do fit the 86 FG don't they?)

 

Sure, the SAE dimensions are 3" x 1/16", which equates to 76mm x 2mm. Again, the standard 0-ring nomenclature is -041. With today's gas, be sure and get Viton o-rings! Motion Industries SKU is 00624810 according to the label. If someone has a problem sourcing these, I can get you some pretty quickly. Figure $2 per o-ring including shipping CONUS (though I see Sparks is in the UK, so that's not worth the shipping hassles). I can't speak for the FG (Euro model?), but I would be nearly certain they're the same. BTW, I've also used them on the '90-'93 VFRs.

Joe in WI

 

How do you get them to conform to the squared shape of the 2nd gen bowls and stay that way without wanting to pop out?

 

I like to finger fuck them with grease.

Just use old fashioned black grease to hold them in there while you screw em back into the carb assembly.

 

Well, no need to go gonzo on the grease. I just smear on a light coating of dielectric grease and they stay just fine. In actuality they stay in place dry (as in the photo above), but I like to grease all o-rings.

 

Got them to go in fine but when I put the carbs back in it looks like the leak was elsewhere- I was thinking somewhere in the fuel rail.
Got into it and took them apart and it looks like the rear fuel rail tube has a chunck out of it near the end might be doing the leaking.
I am swapping it out with a spare set of CA carbs I have on hand and I will be sizing and replacing the o-rings on the fuel and air tubes, along with the rings that go between the collector and the carb bodies.
I might even try to change out the pilot and drain o-rings, I'll see if I can find some comparable SAE dimensions on those.

 

There is a reason you never and I repeat never wana take apart the carburetors like you did. The fuck-up factor is great even for a pro. Can of worms waiting to be opened. Better to just soak them, sounds like your on the right track though and I wouldnt wana switch places with yah. :smile:

When you finish your gona be dah Uber-Guru ; )

 

Eh, had no choice in this one unless I wanted to just stuff 'em in the trash.
The leak was somewhere on the fuel rail tubes as far as I could see so I had to take it apart to see where the leak was.
Yeah, I definitely thought about using the spare set of CA carbs and plugging the open tubes but those had a screw post that broke off at the mount for the throttle drum- the smaller screw mount.
I don't know how to attempt to weld potted metal like this so I decided to scab from the CA set for parts.

 

Next time get the 90' Bridgeport aluminum valve stems. I've got the black ones on my bike and love 'em.

Note that they come in two sizes, for japanese and european bikes. The european ones have a smaller shank to fit the hole in the rim.

Euro = 8.3mm, japanese = 11.3mm

 

Good call. The Viton is the right material, Buna-N wouldn't last as long. Probably cheaper than OEM float bowl gaskets too.