1998 Interceptor weird electrical problem

Good evening,
My bike is a 1998 Honda VFR 800 Fi Interceptor and I have been having some problems. The bike’s engine goes off when I turn the lights on (Fi light goes on) or when I use the turn signal (Fi light goes on at the same rythm as the turn signal) and sometimes it just goes off even when I am not using neither of these (seems like there's a complete electrical cut). I have to turn the "stop running switch" on and off a couple of times untill the Fi light goes off and I can put the bike running again.
I used the Fi lamp to signal me the alarms and I got two: The first a long pulse and then three short and a second with a long pulse and then four short pulses (13 and 14 blinks). From these number of blinks and using the self-diagnosis malfunction table the possible causes are number 2 or 3 connector or injector malfunction. On the other hand the symptoms should be the non-starting of the engine, which is not true.
I had a similar problem a couple of years ago and the problem was solved by substituting the regulator/rectifier. Do you think this could be cause again? Or do you think there’s another possible cause?
Thank you in advance.
Best regards,
José Teixeira
Portugal

 

Tink has much more experience on bikes than I do, so I'd follow his advice.

However, I will also say that my bike was throwing multiple codes at once (not really at once, but at various times all withing one another) - Baro Sensor, Map sensor, speed sensor. It turned out I had some fired wires from the R/R, and they needed to be replaced. I can also advise my R/R had been replaced previously (by someone else), so this is at least the 3rd time its been done in 16,000 miles. (This time I did it right, though).

Keep it in mind, but check what Tink mentioned.

 

I was just curious, Tink; What do you think about Honda and their wiring?

 

She's just a little runaway...

A tiny glorified spade-lug with a bent metal spring tab--the type of sliding electrical contact that should be avoided if at all possible.

The joint gets warm from the heat of current flow, and that causes the pressed bends in the metal to open up. This opening action then creates a high resistance joint with micro-arcing across the gaps, which adds more heat, which results in more metal expansion, more resistance, etc (thermal runaway) until the joint goes open-circuit and you are stuck on the side of the road.

Don't get stuck on the side of the road--use high quality barrel contacts or solder the joints you don't want to smoke.

 

I've been having some problems with my computer as well, which is the reason for such a late reply. Thanks for your suggestions. Couldn't find the orange ground bus so I took the bike to the mechanic last week. Told him what you told me and he couldn't find it either (I think I have to change mechanic). He thinks the bike has an ECM/ECU problem. I would like to know where I can find the orange ground bus (I still think that that is the cause of the problem. Has anyone got a clearer picture to send me?
Thanks.

 

I was actually one of the few that had my ECU go. However, that might have been a combination of things as my PC went on the fritz first, potentially resulting in the ECU failure. Either way, although I had owned the bike for 3 months (and bought it used in 2008), the dealer replaced it for free.

So now you know 2 that have failed, Tink.

 

Thanks for everything. I believe the photo you sent will help to solve the problem. On my way out to meet the mechanic. Will keep you posted as soon as the problem is solved. Thanks once again.

 

You were right from the begginning. Problem solved. Orange connector removed, wires welded and electrically isolated. Bike works just fine. Thanks again for your help.

 

Glad you got it fixed.

Now in my best Roman Empire Voice:

ALL HAIL TINK! ALL HAIL TINK!

LOL, good call Tink.