Mosfet r/r to batt

Is it safe? I was told doing it can blow the ecu.

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You should kick whoever told you that square in the nuts, lol

 

I have a mosfet RR from an R1 in my 5th-gen. Been in there for nearly a year, and so far I've had no troubles. Whoever told you that the mosfet RR would fry your ECU is full of cr@p!

 

That's just BS. I have R1 Mosfet direct to battery and bike runs even better then stock.
As a matter of fact regulator to direct battery has no relations to ECU. Regulator's job is to regulate stator output to battery.Only function is keeping the battery charged and feed proper voltage.
Voltage leaving the battery what powers ECU and mosfet regulators are new designed units intended for modern motorcycles hence comply with ECU.

 

Well update. Unhooked the old r/r put the mosfet one on. Worked ok. Then cleaned up the famous ground block. Now I have no power when I turn the key, no fuses blown (visual inspection). Ideas?

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Double check that ground block and the fuses, something is not making contact...

You get no lights on or anything?

 

without offending you but it happens
is this on?

Check the part you cleaned.Something is loose.Just curious did you end up direct hook up to battery from r/r ?Or you used stock wiring.

 

You "cleaned" it? With what? Some dielectric oil based soap or something?

^This seems like a likely candidate.

 

No dash lights, fuel pump prime, nothing. Clock was on until I turned the key, now no clock at all. (just soldered the ground block connectors to each other, and ran TWO ground wires from it to the main frame ground, also soldered the stator connections)

Yeah that is on. R/R hooked directly to battery.

 

Speaking as an automotive engineer with an OEM company (specialising in warranty issues)... It worked until you "cleaned" the ground block... Well... Sometimes what people think is cleaning is dirtying... Not casting aspersions, but the last thing that was done didn't work, so maybe it had the opposite effect to the intended one... On the other hand, maybe the bike was running off battery power, and cleaning the ground block was just coincidental to the battery going flat. You need to check and re-check the connections, and make sure you haven't done something wrong (inc. making a poor connection). Try starting the bike on a jump-starter battery, and check the voltage at the battery at various RPM's. It should be somewhere between 13V and 15V (maybe 16V at the most), depending on the RPM, and whether it's a stock RR or something non-stock.

When I installed my R1 RR, I made sure I understood the R1 wiring correctly before starting, and then I wired up the stator to the RR. Then I started the bike (charged the battery while installing the RR), and checked the output to ensure that I had it right. Then I connected the RR to the battery (already knowing that I had it right), and checked it again to make sure that the voltage at the battery was over about 13.6V (actual battery voltage) above idle. Knowing this, I was sure that it would be OK for charging.

To cut back to your dilemma... You have contrast: Worked. Cleaned block connection and didn't work. This is the most obvious place to start for fault-finding (noting other things I've already said).

Good luck!

 

Sorry, but Im sticking with.. you did something wrong, and lost your connection to the battery.

Even with the RR removed, the battery will still power the bike... instrument panel will light up, fuel pump will prime etc. Whatever you did while cleaning your block... changed the condition of the connection from the battery. There is a main wire from the battery to the fuse block... main power and main ground. Get a few long wires, and jump each straight to the block.

also, do you have another battery? A car battery? just to put some clips on and see what you get for power?



EDIT** Hang on, did you check the Main Fuse A and Main Fuse B?

 

Yep. I agree. Really, the wiring and electronics of this bike are both quite simple (OK, admittedly I deal with far more complicated things every day, so what I think is simple might be confusing to others), so for something as fundamental as switching the bike on, relatively simple diagnositc techniques will reveal the answer: Check the resistance of all of the connections you've disturbed (ie: plugs you've pulled apart, etc), and you'll probably find your answer quickly. The resistance across the plugs and earth connections should be less than an ohm in nearly all cases.

 

Do you mean the one in the relay under the red plug behind the battery? Also no spare battery. & can you explain which wires to jump?

Not possible now as they are soldered together with 2 wires added on routed to the main frame ground.


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yes. There should be a main there, and another one in the line somewhere.

The wire I am refering to, is the large red wire from the battery, to the block. You will have to have a wire to use to go that distance... about 3 ft of wire should do it.

 

Update: fixed.

That relay behind the battery was blown. Should have taken a hint then the fuse in it was literally melted to its connector. Bike now runs great charges 14.35-14.39@ idle, did not rev since it was cold. Also I have a very small oil leak around my front sprocket. Could it just be chain oil?

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Glad to hear that you've found the problem.

I use a sticky spray-on chain lube, so I need to clean off greasy/dirty gunge every now and then. If you use oil to lube your chain, then it could just be oil thrown off the chain, but it could also be a leak from the gearbox. It's best to degrease the area around the output shaft thoroughly, and take it for a ride (make sure your oil level is OK first, just in case). If it's the chain oil, you'll see the oil re-appear "outside" the sprocket. If it's the transmission seal, there could be some weeping around where the shaft goes into the gearbox: this could also lead to splattering like the chain oil possibility, but it will also appear at the output shaft seal. Note that a very small weep at the seal could take a while to appear.

 

This is what I use to lube the chain:



After dipping my finger in what leaked, it does not smell like engine oil I guess I just over lubed the chain last time I did it, as this is my first chain drive bike.

 

Any alien spacecraft in the area? That always happens to my bike when one flies over. I hate those bastards.

 

Is it supposed to get really really warm/hot around the back of the battery (fuse box side, other side +top was cool) after a ride? I did 60km mostly hwy, last bit was city. Temp gauge read 104c when I parked it if that helps.

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Good point: on three separate occasions, when working on the bike, I accidentally brushed up against the kill button and thought I had "screwed the pooch" when I trying to start it. Low and behold I had accidentally hit the kill switch!