Voltage Regulator Repeat Failure VFR800 1998

The cbr600rr got the FH008EE mosfet regulator in 2007.

Voltage Regulator 07 12 CBR600 CBR 600RR FH008EE Regulator 08 09 10 11 | eBay

2007 08 09 Honda CBR 600RR CBR600RR Rectifier Voltage Regulator with Bracket | eBay

and the cbr1000rr in 2006

Honda CBR1000RR Regulator Rectifier 2006 07 | eBay




That is a pretty dick move on Hondas part...

 

The vfr800 never received a proper regulator, but the vfr1200 did.

http://shop.tspmoto.it/catalog/voltage-regulator-honda-vfr-1200-f-09-11-hk

Thanks honda, this should have been part of the 2006 model update. I don't understand how they could fuck that up like that.

 

Wouldnt the NEW VFRness harness fix the wire mess? I mean the charging system comprises of a stator, a battery, a R/R and a harness that connects the whole mess together. If I am replacing the R/R AND the harness AND the battery at once, its pretty much the stator and the wires leading to the stator which are left no? So if i inspect that in extreme details along with the remaining wires along the bike, why do you think that those new parts wouldnt finally fix the issue once and for all?

And i cant really run the bike without a battery nor R/R!!!

 

The vfrness does NOT replace the factory wire harness, it only adds to it. If your factory harness is messed up the vfrness is not going to magically fix it. The vfrness is basically just a really nice grounding kit. You need to sort out the factory harness' mess before you throw more stuff at it.

You read my post right??? The bike will continue to eat rr and stators with a vfrness until the underlying problems are first resolved.

 

I almost feel like you should start clean and buy new factory wire harnesses from Honda. But to say the least, you need to trace all the wires and properly cut out and solder in any sections of wire that looked burnt or damaged or corroded. The factory Honda 30 amp fuse sucks, Replace it with an in line fuse. The factory stator-rr connection sucks, cut it out and direct solder it. The the green ground block is known to crud up, take it apart, clean it and put it back together. ANY SHUNT TYPE RR WILL FAIL. REPLACE IT. WITH A MOSFET RR. MOSFET rr part numbers start with FH. Example fh020aa. Shunt type rr's start with SH. Example SH579c-12. Any thing that starts with SH is not new and improved, heavy duty, upgraded or anything of that sort, it is garbage and will fail.

 

No prob buddy. Whose the other side of the fence? Honda? The race bikes?

 

I was thinking of soldering the stator wires to the new VFRness since i pretty much just have 3 yellow bare stripped wires just hanging there since the connectors melted away! Now my question to everyone and to you specifically is: "is there an order to which yellow wire goes where? I mean i only have the wires hanging there now i dont know which one goes where like whats the order and does it matter for when i put them back in?"

 

Wait I thought that the VFRness was a complete replacement of the OEM harness, which was basically bigger wires, beefed up connectors and a better fuse. So if this is the wiring diagram of the charging system...



where exactly does the VFRness come in? And are you 100% sure that its not a direct replacement of the whole OEM harness? Thanks

 

The order of the 3 yellow stator wires does NOT matter. The vfrness is supposed to plug in between the factory harness and the rr harness and ties them both to the ground (ie frame) and positive side of the battery with beefier wires (ie heavy gauge). The vfrness is a good idea, as it will carry the majority of the current through it instead of the relying on the factory component as much. (at idle with the vfrness installed I measured around 0.15 amps through the factory 30 amp fuse holder and about 0.75 amps running through the vfrness 30 amp fuse) The vfrness just becomes a path of least resistance. But the factory harness still must be used.

I am running the rr straight to the battery with a fuse in between and also running the vfrness.

 

Wow you rock dude! Thanks a lot, I will DEFINITELY go with option 2!!!!

Now i know there are 2 positives and 2 negatives coming out of the R/R in addition to the 3 yellow stators wires, should I merge the 2 positives together and put one 30A fuse (or bigger than 30A???) in line and go straight to the battery or should i leave them as separate and put a 30A (or bigger?) fuse in both lines and independently connect them to the battery? Same question for the negatives sides minus the fuse? Finally what about the order of those 3 yellow stators wires, any importance in the order there?

 

lol oh duh. lol
sure post away.
i usually only post about go fast squid stuff. if i see someone is having trouble i try to help out, but you're much better at writing actual informational threads than me.

 

order does NOT matter with the three yellow wires.
do Not use bigger than a 30 amp fuse!!!

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but is this what you are doing? Thanks!

 

you were kinda close but this is more like it

 

That got confusing! The crossing of the lines makes it confusing. But if i understand clearly, you meant that the VFRness, the OEM harness and the direct connection of the R/R to the battery are all in parallel, with each an individual 30A fuse? As seen below?