a 1V drop on the headlight wire should be within spec. I say this as your multimeter does not load the circuit enough to test accurately, plus all copper wires, brass contacts and all devices inbetween have resistence. your meter unless its a verry good one will not measure this. Also test methods can cause bad readings if not performed right, a bad ground (frame) contact or just having the bulb in the circuit will cause a major difference. on a 12v system(12.6 relaxed, 13.2 under normal, 14.2 charging) a drop of 1v is not enough to cause issues due to the general design on 11v bottom, 10.6v being a dead and not recoverable (if you recover a 12v battery from 10.6v or lower, dont trust it) battery. Even if your battery is low, your devices will just use more current and stay running, this is because consumption stays the same(relatively, it changes with more heat and always goes up). your HID lights are rated for the wattage they consume, as the input voltage goes down, the current must go up as the output wattage stays the same and is equal to the input wattage. If you need more clairification PM me and I will answer your questions.
I got my replacement ballasts a while ago, mailed directly from the manufacturer in China. They were identical to the units that had failed on my bike. I set to work this past weekend to install the new ones, and forgot what a PITA it is!!! There is SO MUCH that has to come off the bike (tail fairing/seat, side fairings, gas tank, loosen upper fairings, etc.)! Anyways, I flipped the RH ballast so that the hard plastic connectors that were on the bottom (in post #15) are now on the top, and the permanently wired (soft) portion is on the bottom. The left ballast was already mounted in this fashion in the pic above. I also made a new hole in the plastic a little higher up for more ballast/carb clearance. No longer will vibrations from the engine be transmitted through the carbs and directly into the ballasts! Hopefully these last longer than the first set!