Another weird issue on a 2002 vfr800

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by TheBeeDeeGee, Apr 30, 2013.

  1. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    On fuel injection vehicles the butterfly valve screw is almost always set at the factory and then locked in place with some sort of high strength compound--not intended to be adjusted. When the throttle is closed then the butterfly plate is intended to be fullly shut, and the only air goes thru the idle bypass circuit. On the VFR those screws are marked with white paint and the manual warns not mess with the white painted screws or else idle problems will result. Maybe a previous owner messed with them?
     
  2. Durk

    Durk New Member

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    Have you replaced the wax unit?
     
  3. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    nah, I haven't even inspected it yet. She did better on a recent ride though in hot temps ( i have changed to water and waterwetter) the idle speed still dropped but she never knocked off on me. I'm still going to pull the tank and take a look at this wax unit though.
     
  4. nearfreezing

    nearfreezing New Member

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    What did the dealership tell you about the charging system?
     
  5. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    They didn't tell me anything, I don't think I will be using this dealer again. They didn't check the charging system, and they charged me $50 to change a headlight bulb that I didn't ask them to do. Don't recommend Wild West Honda of Katy Texas for service......

    I checked the voltage at idle and it was 13.8, and at rest it was around 12.8 (after sitting for a while not on the tender)

    I still can't figure out why the idle drops when hot, I tried adjusting it again recently and that damn adjuster screw won't turn.
     
  6. nearfreezing

    nearfreezing New Member

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    The battery spec per Honda is 13.0-13.2 fully charged. I doubt this is the issue, but wanted to point it out.

    If the idle is consistently dropping only when hot, the problem could be a faulty coolant temp sensor.
     
  7. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    Yeah I figure it's getting close to new battery time. It's probably the original one.
     
  8. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    Riding home yesterday the temps would go up to about 215 riding slowly in traffic at about 40mph. Then when I stopped they would go down to 209, and keep dropping. This seems backwards to what was happening when I was running the 50/50 coolant instead of water and waterwetter.


    oh, and I tried to move the idle adjustment knob again...it will not move an inch. This really has me worried. I was able to adjust it slightly a few months ago and now it won't move. The bike hasn't knocked off on me lately (since I flushed and changed to coolant) but the idle still drops when hot.
     
  9. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    Was it not clear earlier--the wax unit causes the idle to be higher during cold starting, then drops the idle when the engine is warm...that is how it is supposed to work. The so-called idle adjustment screw is only for temporarily increasing the idle speed while you are making adjustments on the wax unit settings. The wax unit is what controls idle speed, not the misnamed "idle adjustment screw".
     
  10. nearfreezing

    nearfreezing New Member

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  11. pherako

    pherako New Member

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    Funny, a coworker took his GS1200 there, and it took them over a week to replace his rear main seal... You're not the first to complain about Wild West...
     
  12. Tumbleweed

    Tumbleweed New Member

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    (You have to wonder--Why is a kickstand bolt loose? And there is an engine cutoff switch located on the kickstand--maybe there is a connection?)

    I think your on a winner here, also some previous posts about that kickstand bolt and how several people have then had the bike fall over, you'd want to get straight onto that.
     
  13. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    I checked the voltage at idle and it was 13.8, and at rest it was around 12.8 (after sitting for a while not on the tender)

    your quote ^, Check voltage after it sits over night, should be what it is, 12.8 is great. Check voltage at terminals from idle, then increase to 5000 rpm, see what it is, should be up to 14 or so volts, give or take. Does not sound like you have a parasitic draw, but if you did, you could disconnect your negative battery terminal, and bridge your multi meter and see if it reads, should be zero.

    I dont have to deal with an FI bike, but from what I have read and experienced, sounds like your wax-unit, not to be confused with them mood candles you light with the miss-uh-Ss...:wink:
     
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